I mean the one on the switch https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ninten...nsor-Latch-Right-OEM-/173122709652?nav=SEARCHit is possible. I guess you mean Joy-con rail (not the one on the switch). So just solder pin 10 to any GND pin and you are good to go.
The one you linked are for the joy-cons tho...I mean the one on the switch https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ninten...nsor-Latch-Right-OEM-/173122709652?nav=SEARCH
then I'll buy it XDThe one you linked are for the joy-cons tho...
for some reason it gives me a redirection errorIf you're in the UK, this is where I got mine I believe.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-Nintendo-Switch-Joy-con-Controller-Replacement-Rail-Sensor-Latch-Right-OEM/173122709652?hash=item284eeae894:g:WfoAAOSwcN1aa2Y-&_nkw=joycon+rail&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xjoycon+r.TRS0
for some reason it gives me a redirection error
uhm no,all I want is to solder together pin 9 and 10,insert rail(without the rest of the joycon) get to rcm and boot cfw. I do use autorcm but I'm thinking of ditching it since I'm always paranoid it's not off properly or that I just want to play a legit game without having to pull out cables just to boot a legit game.It's the same listing you posted.
So basically you want to set it up with a modded rail so it always boots into RCM?
It's definitely preferable to auto RCM IMHO but wouldn't bridging points on it stop a joycon from working?
uhm no,all I want is to solder together pin 9 and 10,insert rail(without the rest of the joycon) get to rcm and boot cfw. I do use autorcm but I'm thinking of ditching it since I'm always paranoid it's not off properly or that I just want to play a legit game without having to pull out cables just to boot a legit game.
Tinfoil? No, you break out the soldering iron, some solder and you bridge that sucker. Use a small wire if you're worried about clearing the distance from pad 10 to pad 1, 2, or 7.I got ny rail and it didn't come with the foam,how do I keep the tinfoil in place?
I don't have a soldering iron thoughTinfoil? No, you break out the soldering iron, some solder and you bridge that sucker. Use a small wire if you're worried about clearing the distance from pad 10 to pad 1, 2, or 7.