Blu ray power

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wolf_

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Anyone know if these would stop the power to the blu ray drive?
 

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When you say stop power do you mean you want to disable the power to the drive (child lock out, stop the annoying spin noise when you have a disc in, power reduction... it really does not matter) or that your drive is broken and you heard some three legged chip (don't know if that is a transistor, regulator or something else entirely offhand) might be the cause?

If you are asking this sort of thing for the first scenario you are probably also kitted out to figure it out yourself. I would probably start at the drive end, look at whatever cables are coming in and then figure out what it uses to power things beyond that (it should be fairly obvious what is signals and what is local power smoothing/correcting/voltage twiddling).

For the second scenario I would probably do something similar but work back to those chips. Thermal vision is fun, as is having something working to compare to, but you can do just as well by putting some alcohol on them (if you are at all considering fiddling with these sorts of things you or someone you know should have some IPA/isopropyl alcohol for cleaning things) and seeing what evaporates (if it is failed short then it should heat up massively and evaporate quickly, if one is failed open then it should not heat up and instead the others will evaporate leaving that behind for a while).

I have not seen discussions of PS4 circuits get to this level, nor diagrams made available (assuming one can identify what board that is and what revision it is -- I don't know what ones are out there but there are bound to be several).
 
It's a PS4 pro I have no power to the blu ray at all even though all the fuses have power and the connector has power I have tried the drive in another system and it works
 
If you still have that other system then might want to get that back. Having a working reference system and a meter, or better yet an oscilloscope, is a real boon in fault finding.

"to the connector"
What ribbon cable (assuming it is one) did you use when you tested in the other system? They are quite often the thing to fail.

Equally checking fuses is good stuff but you also want to check to the last point you can beyond it in case there is a break in a trace or something.
 
If you still have that other system then might want to get that back. Having a working reference system and a meter, or better yet an oscilloscope, is a real boon in fault finding.

"to the connector"
What ribbon cable (assuming it is one) did you use when you tested in the other system? They are quite often the thing to fail.

Equally checking fuses is good stuff but you also want to check to the last point you can beyond it in case there is a break in a trace or something.
I've checked all fuses they are good I even bridged them just in case for temporary and didn't do any good only other thing I can think of is manually putting the disc in and seeing if it will spin or if the eye has power that would tell me if it's the drive motor section or the actual Lazer part
 

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