Hacking Battery Problem After

[guily6669]

There is no damn Linux
Looks like stupid implementation of batt Handling
If a device browns out due a weak battery they should force a recalibration which ninty engineers simply forgot to implement.
Liio handling (power measurements, charging,...) is no trivial thing...

Any device can report bad battery % if you never done a full cycle or almost never do it...

Any android device can have that problem too, it just needs a calibration...

However this is something different that is happening after testing Linux, remember its a hack and not a nintendo implementation, everything hacking related is as always "do at your own risk".

 

[EpicLPer]

Has anyone had any success "resetting" the battery percentage to normal again? There were quite a few pages of text here which I can't keep up with

 

[MachRc]

^^like half the thread is about removing main battery and buying a new screwdriver set(like three posts before yours). Maybe this needs stickying

 

[EpicLPer]

^^like half the thread is about removing main battery and buying a new screwdriver set(like three posts before yours). Maybe this needs stickying

So that was confirmed working? I may have to do that then.

 

[EpicLPer]

I already found a fix. Pull the battery out of the switch and hold the power button for 15 seconds. Re-insert battery and start as normal. I'm currently attempting to find a software method.

EDIT: I've not yet been able to replicate the battery bug myself yet which is proving to be harder than I initially expected it to be. I'll see if I can force my switch to die on Linux overnight and test from there.

Will try this then. But isn't there thermal paste stuck to the back of it?

 

[alkar]

There is but I didn't even remove the silver plate, just moved it a little until I could see the battery plug... Maybe I moved a little the thermal paste but I don't think it's that problematic...

 

[Shadow LAG]

I'm curious if the issue comes back. If you fixed your switch issue using my fix, please re-run Linux if you could to verify. The reason I ask is I cannot replicate the issue no matter how hard I try which makes it damn hard to troubleshoot / create a soft fix.

Please also state your RCM pin configuration.

 

[guily6669]

Well my first post on this thread I also had said that removing battery connection might fix it...

Will try this then. But isn't there thermal paste stuck to the back of it?

Well the best thing is this already works as an excuse for everyone to buy proper thermal paste like Artic MX-4 or if you want to go nuts and drop temps a lot using liquid metal thermal compound which I don't recommend.

Artic MX-4 is one of the best safe thermal compounds out there with 8 years of life guaranteed. However the guy that used liquid metal reported that the fans don't start up as easily as the normal Switch, the battery also lasts a bit more and he reported that somehow on some parts of Zelda that had minor lag now he has no lag...

And for the backplate since it uses quite a lot of thermal paste, just buy a cheap good one and fill it all over the place, MX-4 I recommend only on the chip as its a bit expensive to waste on the backplate.

NOTE: Nothing drops temps like the liquid metal compounds, but also be careful as they are dangerous, eat metals, conduct electricity and I wouldn't recommend it for a portable console that shakes a lot since it goes with you everywhere and can only be used on the chip with the copper cooler as it will eat almost all the other metals... Buy MX-4 for good temperature drops and 100% safety instead.

 

[TerraPhantm]

Well my first post on this thread I also had said that removing battery connection might fix it...

Well the best thing is this already works as an excuse for everyone to buy proper thermal paste like Artic MX-4 or if you want to go nuts and drop temps a lot using liquid metal thermal compound which I don't recommend.

Artic MX-4 is one of the best safe thermal compounds out there with 8 years of life guaranteed. However the guy that used liquid metal reported that the fans don't start up as easily as the normal Switch, the battery also lasts a bit more and he reported that somehow on some parts of Zelda that had minor lag now he has no lag...

And for the backplate since it uses quite a lot of thermal paste, just buy a cheap good one and fill it all over the place, MX-4 I recommend only on the chip as its a bit expensive to waste on the backplate.

NOTE: Nothing drops temps like the liquid metal compounds, but also be careful as they are dangerous, eat metals, conduct electricity and I wouldn't recommend it for a portable console that shakes a lot since it goes with you everywhere and can only be used on the chip with the copper cooler as it will eat almost all the other metals... Buy MX-4 for good temperature drops and 100% safety instead.

You don't have to remove the actual heatsink for the battery. Just removing the IO shield which happens to have thermal paste to the heat pipe. Replacing that TIM won't result in a drastic improvement or anything. Replacing the paste under the actual heatsink might, but that's a more involved process.

 

[SimonMKWii]

Finally someone mentioning this, yes!
Fix, without hardmod: turn sleep mode off in the settings, turn brightness and sound all the way down, airplane mode on, leave switch in the home menu until 0% and shutdown!

The cause is that the battery percentage is stored as a value on NAND, so running it down in Linux won't adjust that value.
Therefore you need to force a discharge.

Oh yeah, and there's a software lock, so when it displays "100%" it shuts off power to the battery.

 

[Shadow LAG]

Finally someone mentioning this, yes!
Fix, without hardmod: turn sleep mode off in the settings, turn brightness and sound all the way down, airplane mode on, leave switch in the home menu until 0% and shutdown!

OP let his switch drain and complained it still had the issue. That was the first thing we had him try. Can you confirm you performed this after performing RCM exploit and this fixed the issue?

 

[NightStorm1000]

Worked for me. Drain Completly. Recarge fully. I repeated it two times. Just to be sure.

 

[aut0mat3d]

Worked for me. Drain Completly. Recarge fully. I repeated it two times. Just to be sure.

Did the same and it did not work

 

[Shadow LAG]

Worked for me. Drain Completly. Recarge fully. I repeated it two times. Just to be sure.

Well then we wasted a bunch of time and OP didn't do the very first thing we asked him to. Since we couldn't replicate it we were going by his word. Then that sounds like Nintendo's official fix.

Did the same and it did not work

Okay so either we have people in here who are not RCM users that are effected by the bug, didn't actually read what this thread was about, and spreading around the Nintendo recommendation for normal circumstances, or there is an inconsistency to the fix.

 

[NightStorm1000]

I had the Problem while messing around with Shofel2. Switch would not turn on without an USB Cable attached. Was thinking i bricked it. The Switch was around 25-30 % back than. Booted into RCM. Disconnected USB and let it drain out completley over night. Recharged. Switch booted again without USB. Then I let it drain and Recharge two Times. Standard Battery Calibration Stuff. Played Skyrim Yesterday all the way down to 10% befor I recharged again.

 

[Shadow LAG]

I had the Problem while messing around with Shofel2. Switch would not turn on without an USB Cable attached. Was thinking i bricked it. The Switch was around 25-30 % back than. Booted into RCM. Disconnected USB and let it drain out completley over night. Recharged. Switch booted again without USB. Then I let it drain and Recharge two Times. Standard Battery Calibration Stuff. Played Skyrim Yesterday all the way down to 10% befor I recharged again.

That situation is different from the symptoms others are experiencing. You had the standard bug which happens when the switch drops too low in power to boot and requires a re-calibration. I've had this issue under stock circumstances in the past. Back then I couldn't even see the battery indicator until an hour and a half into a charge.

The issue that is being reported which cannot be fixed by this method, according to several reports, is the auto shut off after the battery drops below a certain threshold. This right now has only been confirmed resolved after I had people pull their battery and drain the capacitors (Memory clear coldboot).

 

[x0x0]

Finally someone mentioning this, yes!
Fix, without hardmod: turn sleep mode off in the settings, turn brightness and sound all the way down, airplane mode on, leave switch in the home menu until 0% and shutdown!

The cause is that the battery percentage is stored as a value on NAND, so running it down in Linux won't adjust that value.
Therefore you need to force a discharge.

Oh yeah, and there's a software lock, so when it displays "100%" it shuts off power to the battery.

Are you sure this is working? my USB C cable should arrive very soon - and wanna try linux. And i want to know how to fix potentially battery bug without hard mod.

 

[EpicLPer]

Has anyone tried charging the Switch to 100% on the Switch OS, then changing to Linux and charging it a 100% there too? Maybe the Switch OS really does a 100% Soft Shutoff way before the battery charging circuit itself would do.

 

[aut0mat3d]

Has anyone tried charging the Switch to 100% on the Switch OS, then changing to Linux and charging it a 100% there too? Maybe the Switch OS really does a Soft Shutoff way before the battery charging circuit itself would do.

thats what i did in principe.
After that the switch died with around 35%

 

[EpicLPer]

thats what i did in principe.
After that the switch died with around 35%

Hm... Damn it...