I am not an engineer nor have I ever claimed to be one, I am just someone with 10 years worth of experiences doing free lance electronic repairs. I started out with some outdated logic and forgot to correct myself.No, admittedly I didn't read the whole thread and see your note about not being completely right, in fact update previous posts can help people avoid getting the wrong idea. It would be courteous.
clearly however you are not an engineer and don't know what you are talking about. Especially when you start throwing "well if somethings wrong with the battery of the charger is broken" WELL SURE!! If it's broken and not working right all kinds of things can happen. I too have seen swollen batteries. I never said batteries don't "go bad" It doesn't mean that a normally functioning charger and normally functioning battery will somehow get magically overcharged if you leave it on the charger. That's simply moronic logic I'm sorry to say.
Go learn something about CE mark IEC-60601, and UL standards that prohibit the sale of unsafe consumer products whose designs must be tested by 3rd parties (again this applies to reputable device manfs not random white box stuff from ebay).
It is however the case that a LiIon battery will last LONGEST if kept at around 60-70% charge (this helps preserve total lifetime of the battery and is one of the reasons these batteries are usually shipped about half charged). It's not that significant and there is a tradeoff between life lost due to charge cycles and life lost due to charge level. Generally, keeping the battery near fully charged and minimizing deep discharge and charge cycles will produce the best long term performance.
In all seriousness though. If you want me to teach you how this stuff actually works I can. If you are willing to slog through data sheets for the charge controllers I can show you exactly how/where such overcharging is prohibited by the charge controllers in general (I'm not sure which specific charge controller is present in the 3ds since their ICs are heavily customized in many cases).
Here is a pretty accurate and understandable resource on LiIon battery technology: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/is_lithium_ion_the_ideal_battery
Sorry dude, I don't mean to be gruff. I don't have anything against you. I just get wound up about bad technical advice propagating.
But at the same time, I know the signs of a broken battery. When someone comes to me, telling me that their battery is dying randomly, not holding a charge, and is even dies when not active. Then that sounds like the battery has shit the bed, thus I go with logical approach and suggest testing with a new battery. If the battery problems continue from there, then it's hardware issue.
Pretending that LiIon are completely without fault though isn't the right approach either. Just because they are batter, doesn't mean they can't break for whatever reason. This is why I've been trying to suggest doing a simple test to eliminate the battery as the problem in an attempt to more accurately diagnose the real problem.
Edit: And my suggestion is still going to be the same. If you think you are having battery problems, test them out first. Get a new battery and see if the problem keeps happening. If it doesn't, your battery was bad, if it does, it sounds like something might be up with your hardware.
Last edited by The Catboy,