Advice on modchip path.

Mutateddreams

Member
OP
Newcomer
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
5
Trophies
0
Age
31
XP
44
Country
United States
First i would like to start by saying I am very new to the switch scene as far as CFW is concerned, i have been a member for awhile, but recently lost access to my old email with my old account (mutantdreams). I currently have a v1 switch and with all the resources here i have finally got that working correctly with a RCM loader and a Jig, but am wanting to do something a bit different, but before I have the questions, this is what i would like to be able to do: when the switch is powered on, I would like to be able to boot directly into the Hekate screen. For this i was thinking I would need some sort of internal payload injector, and some way to immediately boot into RCM without the jig. What would you suggest doing to get to that result?

I was looking into the SX chips and the HW Fly clones, but they are a bit expensive, and if i was to go that route, i would probably go with a V2 switch.

What exactly are the RCMX86 chips? Do they do what I am looking for? Are they exclusive to V1 switches?

Initially i was looking at disassembling the RCM loader, and soldering the usb C connections to the board of the switch directly, and then using auto RCM to force RCM every boot. The problem i have found with that is I am insure how i would power the RCM loader so it doesnt constantly stay on. Also because of how intelligent this community is, i am sure there is a reason someone has not done this.
 

Tomato123

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Messages
731
Trophies
1
Location
England
XP
2,498
Country
United Kingdom
First i would like to start by saying I am very new to the switch scene as far as CFW is concerned, i have been a member for awhile, but recently lost access to my old email with my old account (mutantdreams). I currently have a v1 switch and with all the resources here i have finally got that working correctly with a RCM loader and a Jig, but am wanting to do something a bit different, but before I have the questions, this is what i would like to be able to do: when the switch is powered on, I would like to be able to boot directly into the Hekate screen. For this i was thinking I would need some sort of internal payload injector, and some way to immediately boot into RCM without the jig. What would you suggest doing to get to that result?

I was looking into the SX chips and the HW Fly clones, but they are a bit expensive, and if i was to go that route, i would probably go with a V2 switch.

What exactly are the RCMX86 chips? Do they do what I am looking for? Are they exclusive to V1 switches?

Initially i was looking at disassembling the RCM loader, and soldering the usb C connections to the board of the switch directly, and then using auto RCM to force RCM every boot. The problem i have found with that is I am insure how i would power the RCM loader so it doesnt constantly stay on. Also because of how intelligent this community is, i am sure there is a reason someone has not done this.
If you have a V1 then the RCMX86. If you have a V2 then HWFly or SX Core.

But honestly, having to plug in an RCM Loader is just less risky and only a very minor inconvenience. I assume you know the risks with soldering though. You should just leave the Switch locked most of the time instead of shutting it down as it won't use much battery life when locked and no need to re-inject. I used to shut mine down before modding but just got used to not doing it as it doesn't really matter.
 

Mutateddreams

Member
OP
Newcomer
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
5
Trophies
0
Age
31
XP
44
Country
United States
If you have a V1 then the RCMX86. If you have a V2 then HWFly or SX Core.

But honestly, having to plug in an RCM Loader is just less risky and only a very minor inconvenience. I assume you know the risks with soldering though. You should just leave the Switch locked most of the time instead of shutting it down as it won't use much battery life when locked and no need to re-inject. I used to shut mine down before modding but just got used to not doing it as it doesn't really matter.
Thank you for the reply! The only reason im considering the soldering is because I have access to a micro soldering station at a buddies cell phone repair shop. Currently I Just put my switch to sleep, and try not to let it die. The biggest concern i have is the battery life has went down to about 45 minutes, but I may just replace the battery.
 

Tomato123

Well-Known Member
Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2020
Messages
731
Trophies
1
Location
England
XP
2,498
Country
United Kingdom
Thank you for the reply! The only reason im considering the soldering is because I have access to a micro soldering station at a buddies cell phone repair shop. Currently I Just put my switch to sleep, and try not to let it die. The biggest concern i have is the battery life has went down to about 45 minutes, but I may just replace the battery.
If the battery life is that low, I think you should consider replacing it. Also, something that I just thought about which I'm not sure on is how you update the payloads when updates to Hekate release (assuming you use Hekate to boot into Atmosphere). I would assume you have to open up the console again to flash the new payload to the chip but if that is wrong then someone will correct me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mutateddreams

Mutateddreams

Member
OP
Newcomer
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
5
Trophies
0
Age
31
XP
44
Country
United States
If the battery life is that low, I think you should consider replacing it. Also, something that I just thought about which I'm not sure on is how you update the payloads when updates to Hekate release (assuming you use Hekate to boot into Atmosphere). I would assume you have to open up the console again to flash the new payload to the chip but if that is wrong then someone will correct me.
Ahh that is something i didnt really think too much about, i forgot that the files would have to be updated occasionally. As far as the battery is concerned, it is a bit rough, on harder graphically intense games i will sometimes get as low as 45 mins from 100%-10%. So a new battery will definitely be in my future
 

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
Ahh that is something i didnt really think too much about, i forgot that the files would have to be updated occasionally. As far as the battery is concerned, it is a bit rough, on harder graphically intense games i will sometimes get as low as 45 mins from 100%-10%. So a new battery will definitely be in my future

I followed the @mattytrog Trinket M0 guide recently. It‘s the most involved mod I’ve made to date. First time micro soldering, but I did it and it works great! His fusee suite payload that goes on the trinket is code complete, meaning you never have to update it. It simply manages the initial boot sequence and then passes to the payload of your choice. I’m using Hekate and have gone through several Hekate upgrades without thinking about my Trinket installation. It’s the closest thing to cold boot out there for a v1 switch. Highly recommend it if your soldering skills are decent and you like to tinker. While you have the back popped open you might as well swap out that battery.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tomato123

binkinator

Garfield’s Fitness Coach
Member
GBAtemp Patron
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
6,511
Trophies
2
XP
6,155
Country
United States
If you have a V1 then the RCMX86. If you have a V2 then HWFly or SX Core.

But honestly, having to plug in an RCM Loader is just less risky and only a very minor inconvenience. I assume you know the risks with soldering though. You should just leave the Switch locked most of the time instead of shutting it down as it won't use much battery life when locked and no need to re-inject. I used to shut mine down before modding but just got used to not doing it as it doesn't really matter.

Agree 100%. RCM Loader and a Jig is the recommended path for most people.

There were several times during my Trinket upgrade that I thought I fried my switch. I’ve been soldering electronics for a long time but surface mount components are a whole ‘nother level and will test your hands, eyes and patience!

If I had to do it all again I would probably chose the RCMX86 as recommended above. It has nice large pads and you don’t have to remove the USB port. You can find it on here. You’ll note there a link to a Trinket on there as well.

End of day it’s much safer to just use an RCM jig on the very rare occasion you need to do a full reboot. Sleep is your friend and it‘s already built in to your switch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tomato123

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum

General chit-chat
Help Users
    Xdqwerty @ Xdqwerty: i think im a bad person