Hardware 3DS XL Hardmod: Lifted CMD Pad. Lost Cause?

eXpired

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I don't solder often, but thought hardmodding would be easy enough. That was a mistake. I believe I accidentally lifted the CMD pad on the motherboard. I'm not even entirely sure that I did, but nothing will stick there now so I'm fairly certain that happened.

Here's a crappy cell phone photo. It's crappy quality; I could upload a shot from my dSLR if it matters.

11349939_10206240506225506_789261093_n.jpg


Is there an alternate CMD point anywhere?

Am I completely hosed? My SysNAND is corrupted, though I have a backup so I was hoping to do this to restore it. I'd gladly pay someone to repair it if they think they could.
 

eXpired

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A lot of the discoloration is leftover flux, I think. And then we kept trying and trying since we weren't positive if the pad was lifted or not. Never could get it to stick.

Also, I fully admit I suck and shouldn't have tried this.
 
D

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Iron should only touch the pad for a second or maybe 2 MAX. it's only a glue that holds the pad down, when that melts it comes away usually ripping the track with it.
 

milerwan

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A customer of mine who tore the CMD pad on his 3DS XL had got permanent blue screen and the motherboard was dead.
So I think you must test to switch on your console to see that first.
 

eXpired

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A customer of mine who tore the CMD pad on his 3DS XL had got permanent blue screen and the motherboard was dead.
So I think you must test to switch on your console to see that first.

Yeah, it was already bricked (managed to hose it while playing with rxTools, but have a NAND backup). Turning the device on is the same symptoms as before I screwed this up: black screens, no blue, no light even on the screen panel: just blue power LED.

Sent it to hundshamer, so we'll see if he's able to get this back up and running. Could be screwed, but desperate to try anything.
 

vastrolorde

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is there any way we can make the wires stick to the points?? or maybe replace the pad.? i had a 3dsxl with the same issue.
 

eXpired

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is there any way we can make the wires stick to the points?? or maybe replace the pad.? i had a 3dsxl with the same issue.

Not really. A trace is what carries the signal, and if it's ripped too much, it's not recoverable. hunshamer looked at my 3DS XL but the trace was lifted too far. So my 3DS XL is now junked.

On the bright side, it's a good excuse to pick up a New 3DS XL once I can justify spending another $200
 

Noobly300

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A customer of mine who tore the CMD pad on his 3DS XL had got permanent blue screen and the motherboard was dead.
So I think you must test to switch on your console to see that first.
My 3ds xl turns on but it doesnt read SD cards. Any fix or no SD access anymore?
 

The Real Jdbye

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I don't solder often, but thought hardmodding would be easy enough. That was a mistake. I believe I accidentally lifted the CMD pad on the motherboard. I'm not even entirely sure that I did, but nothing will stick there now so I'm fairly certain that happened.

Here's a crappy cell phone photo. It's crappy quality; I could upload a shot from my dSLR if it matters.

View attachment 20389

Is there an alternate CMD point anywhere?

Am I completely hosed? My SysNAND is corrupted, though I have a backup so I was hoping to do this to restore it. I'd gladly pay someone to repair it if they think they could.
I have heard of people fixing lifted pads by applying solder tin into the hole, no guarantees whether that will work though.
Another thing that could work is to scrape off some of the coating on the trace and soldering directly to it, but that can be pretty tricky. Of course that'll only work if the trace is visible.
The best method might be combining these two, by scraping back some of the trace by the lifted pad giving the solder more metal to adhere to when you melt it into the hole.
 
Last edited by The Real Jdbye,

Noobly300

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I have heard of people fixing lifted pads by applying solder tin into the hole, no guarantees whether that will work though.
Another thing that could work is to scrape off some of the coating on the trace and soldering directly to it, but that can be pretty tricky. Of course that'll only work if the trace is visible.
The best method might be combining these two, by scraping back some of the trace by the lifted pad giving the solder more metal to adhere to when you melt it into the hole.
Best way to scrape?
 

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