Hacking 3DS unbricking progress

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Measure the voltage at fake SD with 3DS on.

DAT3 = 3.27v
CMD= 3.27v
CLK= 0v
DAT0 = 3.27v

Measure the voltage at fake SD with 3DS on + SD Shield + Arduino off.

CLK = 13- 0v
DAT0 / MISO = 12- 0v
CMD / MOSI = 11- 0v
DAT3 / CS/SS = 10- 3.27v
 
Measure the voltage at fake SD with 3DS on + SD Shield + Arduino off.

CLK = 13- 1.5v
DAT0 / MISO = 12- 0v
CMD / MOSI = 11- 0v
DAT3 / CS/SS = 10- 3.29v
Is that voltage range?fluctuating?
 
So sad right now -.- waiting for my uno to arrive cuz i accidentally put 12V on my duemilanoves 3.3v... Totaly forgot i had linked the power rails on the labdeck... But tomorrow perhaps i will try and make this with the uno and the level shifter.
 
That's also the reason that restordeviders w'ont work.
The current is to high which pulls the voltage down.

So i guess it's better to use a buffer/logic level shifter for a stable in/ouput


This board works on 3.3V.
On all outputs i use pullup resistors 47Kohm
With SD card connected, all outputs are 3.3V on the sd card.
With 3ds connected, CS and DO are 3.3V, but CLK is dropping down to 2.3 V.

i tried it with a pullup of 150ohm.
With a sd card all is working, with 3ds not.
Only put CLK to hi on sdcard it's 3.3V.
Only put CLK to hi on 3ds, it's 2,5V
 
This board works on 3.3V.
On all outputs i use pullup resistors 47Kohm
With SD card connected, all outputs are 3.3V on the sd card.
With 3ds connected, CS and DO are 3.3V, but CLK is dropping down to 2.3 V.

i tried it with a pullup of 150ohm.
With a sd card all is working, with 3ds not.
Only put CLK to hi on sdcard it's 3.3V.
Only put CLK to hi on 3ds, it's 2,5V


The CLK giving 3.3V in your 3ds on?

Here in my 3ds is giving 0v.


DAT3 = 3.27v
CMD= 3.27v
CLK= 0v
DAT0 = 3.27v
 
The CLK giving 3.3V on your 3ds on?

Here in my 3ds is giving 0v.


DAT3 = 3.27v
CMD= 3.29v
CLK= 0v
DAT0 = 3.27v


With 3ds off or on CLK = 2.3V.
i do not understand: measure the voltage of CLK in your fake SD with 3ds on?

i think i know what you mean, with 3ds on i measure on the 3ds sd card cable:
DAT3 = 3,3V
CMD = 3,3V
CLK = 0V
DAT0 = 3,3V

With 3ds sdcard connected to my board en put CLK, CMD and DAT3 to HI.
DAT3 = 3,3V
CMD = 3,3V
CLK = 2,3V
DAT0 = 3,3V

With 3ds sdcard connected to my board en put CLK, CMD and DAT3 to LOW.
DAT3 = 0V
CMD = 0V
CLK = 0V
DAT0 = 3,3V

With a normal sdcard connected to my board en put CLK, CMD and DAT3 to HI.
DAT3 = 3,3V
CMD = 3,3V
CLK = 3,3V
DAT0 = 3,3V
 
bkifft
Isn't it possible to boot the Rasp without the USB Stick, right?

I guess it's because the boot passes from SD to USB at some point so you can remove the SD and plug the DS. Am I, at least a tiny little bit right? hehe

Cheers!

Aye. The usual way is to boot and run from SD.

As we need the SD slot for our own purposes we only need the initial boot from SD (the preprogrammed bootloader on the Soc is hardwired to load the next stage from the first FAT on SD, which in turn loads the kernel from the same partition). Everything after that is loaded from USB.

But as some USB sticks have a better read/write performance than SD cards, quite a few people who need that extra oomph on their Pi are switching to USB (for example it's quite noticeable when loading thumbnails when running XBMC).
 
Order my Pi yesterday and will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for all the hard work it goes into making this possible.
 
Aye. The usual way is to boot and run from SD.

As we need the SD slot for our own purposes we only need the initial boot from SD (the preprogrammed bootloader on the Soc is hardwired to load the next stage from the first FAT on SD, which in turn loads the kernel from the same partition). Everything after that is loaded from USB.

But as some USB sticks have a better read/write performance than SD cards, quite a few people who need that extra oomph on their Pi are switching to USB (for example it's quite noticeable when loading thumbnails when running XBMC).


Gotcha!
I got one of those ModMyPi Stealth Black cases and a Low Profile SD to MicroSD switch... I'll also get one of those tiny USBs 4gb and use my Rasp as a HTPC while I'm not unbricking some 3DS :P
I also have a 360 original remote control laying around and I'll try to use it...
Let's give it a shot and see if it pays the investment LOL

Cheers!
 
thank you so much for the guide and steps to fix my unbricked 3ds. i just got it fixed with a rasberry pi.
Glad it worked and gratz :) (and looking forward to a certain email ;)).

Oh, and don't forget to try to use your new Pi for something (or selling it) instead of putting it away in some drawer.
 
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Yes, show your Pi some love, it definitely deserves it for that feat. Cheers on your successfull 3ds nand revival mate. :-)
 
With 3ds off or on CLK = 2.3V.
i do not understand: measure the voltage of CLK in your fake SD with 3ds on?

i think i know what you mean, with 3ds on i measure on the 3ds sd card cable:
DAT3 = 3,3V
CMD = 3,3V
CLK = 0V
DAT0 = 3,3V

With 3ds sdcard connected to my board en put CLK, CMD and DAT3 to HI.
DAT3 = 3,3V
CMD = 3,3V
CLK = 2,3V
DAT0 = 3,3V

With 3ds sdcard connected to my board en put CLK, CMD and DAT3 to LOW.
DAT3 = 0V
CMD = 0V
CLK = 0V
DAT0 = 3,3V

With a normal sdcard connected to my board en put CLK, CMD and DAT3 to HI.
DAT3 = 3,3V
CMD = 3,3V
CLK = 3,3V
DAT0 = 3,3V

Was exactly what I wanted to know thanks, i think if had a way add 1v to CLK the arduino to work with 3DS.
 
This board works on 3.3V.
On all outputs i use pullup resistors 47Kohm
With SD card connected, all outputs are 3.3V on the sd card.
With 3ds connected, CS and DO are 3.3V, but CLK is dropping down to 2.3 V.

i tried it with a pullup of 150ohm.
With a sd card all is working, with 3ds not.
Only put CLK to hi on sdcard it's 3.3V.
Only put CLK to hi on 3ds, it's 2,5V

Was exactly what I wanted to know thanks, i think if had a way add 1v to CLK the arduino to work with 3DS.
You can increase the voltage using ohm law,v=IR.
So how about trying 50k ohm to 100k ohm pull up?the recommendation is here:
http://elm-chan.org/docs/mmc/mmc_e.html
 
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