Hardware 3ds cfw won't turn on no blue light no gm9 or luma

Broomoperator

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Hi

My new 3ds won't turn on no blue light no can't access luma or gm9 when plugged in with the battery the yellow led lights up. Things I've tried.

1 inserted new battery still the same problem
2 took apart inspected for corosion and rust
3 took pictures of the motherboard
4 tried update trick by holding button combination l,r,up, a and power switch.
5 removed SD card and checked on computer SD card is not corrupt.
6 I've tried to test fuses but can't find location on the abxy and motherboard.

Please see pictures attached
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Broomoperator

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A continuation of your discussion found at:

Replacement microfuses.
Replacement New 3DS [power/daughter/ABXY] board
New 3DS repair guides

[
***hi

Thanks I just checked again with the pictures you posted there is continuity on both fuses and I bought a new battery which I tried it charges but no blue light.

I ordered a new axby board will this fix it.

So what else can I check there doesn't seem to be any liquid damage as I never spilled anything on it but cleaned it with wet wipes.
 
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hi

Thanks I just checked again with the pictures you posted there is continuity on both fuses and I bought a new battery which I tried it charges but no blue light.

I ordered a new axby board will this fix it.

So what else can I check there doesn't seem to be any liquid damage as I never spilled anything on it but cleaned it with wet wipes.
:(

Unfortunately, wet wipes can cause liquid damage to the motherboard as those contain water and may have incompatible solvent that can expedient expedite metal corrosion.

The best way to clean an electronic is to use a soft toothbrush dipped in 70-91% isopropyl alcohol. For extra drying, use a hairdryer set to low heat + low fan speed settings. Light brushes when cleaning with the toothbrush, and constant sweeping motion with the hairdryer.
 
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Broomoperator

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:(

Unfortunately, wet wipes can cause liquid damage to the motherboard as those contain water and may have incompatible solvent that can expedient expedite metal corrosion.

The best way to clean an electronic is to use a soft toothbrush dipped in 70-91% isopropyl alcohol. For extra drying, use a hairdryer set to low heat + low fan speed settings. Light brushes when cleaning with the toothbrush, and constant sweeping motion with the hairdryer.


Hi

I think you misunderstood my post.

When I cleaned with wet wipes it was the outside casing I cleaned, I did this to another one as well the other still works.

The only other thing I can think of is using a external power bank and dropping it once. But I've dropped it before and never anything happen to it.
 
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Hi

I think you misunderstood my post.

When I cleaned with wet wipes it was the outside casing I cleaned, I did this to another one as well the other still works.

The only other thing I can think of is using a external power bank and dropping it once. But I've dropped it before and never anything happen to it.
Cleaning one 3DS system with wet wipes doesn't necessarily means that cleaning another also comes away unscathed. I don't know how much of a difference there is between wet wipes from other countries, but if you used something like a fresh pack of these North America's Lysol wipes, I can see the possibility of soapy liquid pooling enough to form a single drop that leaks into the 3DS.

Getting ionized or non-neutral pH water is bad enough with corroding any one of those tiny metal pins and contacts on the motherboard, but when you add electricity from the connected battery into the mix, that usually leads to instant death.

The same goes for damages from drops. You can jump off from one story height, land on your feet, and be alright. Maybe you parkour so much that one story falls seem like nothing, that is until you ever so slightly land wrong and break your ankle. Any strong enough applied force can stress the motherboard enough to crack components or break solder joints. Some of these damages you won't see with the naked eye (requires x-ray to infer damage).

***

Assuming your n3DS motherboard is intact from the last drop and doesn't have water damage, if replacing the power board doesn't fix this issue, you can try your luck with the power flex cable. Wet wipes might have gummed up the contact push dome, or dissembling the n3DS could have broken the traces within the cable.
 
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Broomoperator

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Cleaning one 3DS system with wet wipes doesn't necessarily means that cleaning another also comes away unscathed. I don't know how much of a difference there is between wet wipes from other countries, but if you used something like a fresh pack of these North America's Lysol wipes, I can see the possibility of soapy liquid pooling enough to form a single drop that leaks into the 3DS.

Getting ionized or non-neutral pH water is bad enough with corroding any one of those tiny metal pins and contacts on the motherboard, but when you add electricity from the connected battery into the mix, that usually leads to instant death.

The same goes for damages from drops. You can jump off from one story height, land on your feet, and be alright. Maybe you parkour so much that one story falls seem like nothing, that is until you ever so slightly land wrong and break your ankle. Any strong enough applied force can stress the motherboard enough to crack components or break solder joints. Some of these damages you won't see with the naked eye (requires x-ray to infer damage).

***

Assuming your n3DS motherboard is intact from the last drop and doesn't have water damage, if replacing the power board doesn't fix this issue, you can try your luck with the power flex cable. Wet wipes might have gummed up the contact push dome, or dissembling the n3DS could have broken the traces within the cable.

Alright I'll update you once the abxy board gets here won't be posted till middle of next week.

Thanks for your help.
 
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Will this help in any way
-snip-
Still no abxy board yet because of coronavirus.
This is nothing against you, but I am not watching that video by sthetix.

Edit 1 - @Broomoperator, while I didn't watch the video, I read his description about reflowing his power board. You would need something like this rework station and solder flux when it comes to reflowing IC chips. :!: Don't use your kitchen oven because the fumes will contaminate your baked foods!

Edit 2 - Coronavirus impacting all sorts of domestic and internationally sold goods. Can't buy 70-91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, so one has to resort to 150+ proof grain alcohol for disinfectant. Don't use ethanol for electronics!

Can't locally buy 3M N95 masks or even Chinese made KN95 from online? Make your own out of HEPA filter medium and rubber band!

Interesting times we live in...

Edit 3 - Back on topic. If you need some 3DS gaming, see if playing on Citra emulator is suitable for the time being.
 
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Broomoperator

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This is nothing against you, but I am not watching that video by sthetix.

Edit 1 - @Broomoperator, while I didn't watch the video, I read his description about reflowing his power board. You would need something like this rework station and solder flux when it comes to reflowing IC chips. :!: Don't use your kitchen oven because the fumes will contaminate your baked foods!

Edit 2 - Coronavirus impacting all sorts of domestic and internationally sold goods. Can't buy 70-91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, so one has to resort to 150+ proof grain alcohol for disinfectant. Don't use ethanol for electronics!

Can't locally buy 3M N95 masks or even Chinese made KN95 from online? Make your own out of HEPA filter medium and rubber band!

Interesting times we live in...

Edit 3 - Back on topic. If you need some 3DS gaming, see if playing on Citra emulator is suitable for the time being.
Thanks for letting me know about citra.

The abxy board and battery came. Still nothing it charges but does not turn on. It's four years old so no warranty. I'm going to take it to the repair outlet near where I live. He said he'll take a look at it.
 
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Thanks for letting me know about citra.

The abxy board and battery came. Still nothing it charges but does not turn on. It's four years old so no warranty. I'm going to take it to the repair outlet near where I live. He said he'll take a look at it.
Have the person check continuity for the power button flex cable. This part looks like it has a high chance of bending and breaking the traces.
Other than that, you might have to consider buying a replacement New 3DS, somehow find/import another intact (but very rare) n3DS motherboard, or spend considerable sum of money to have someone x-ray the current motherboard to find what exactly broke & if it's salvageable, reflow or replace that specific SMD component.

New 3DS power flex cable.jpg
 
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Broomoperator

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Have the person check continuity for the power button flex cable. This part looks like it has a high chance of bending and breaking the traces.
Other than that, you might have to consider buying a replacement New 3DS, somehow find/import another intact (but very rare) n3DS motherboard, or spend considerable sum of money to have someone x-ray the current motherboard to find what exactly broke & if it's salvageable, reflow or replace that specific SMD component.

View attachment 207417
There is a bend on the cable it's visible in that you can make it out without a magnifier.

You quoted that this could cause it. There is no tear though. Tried testing for continuity it failed the current didn't pass through. Tried to flatten it but nothing. The ironic thing is where I live the postage is greater than the cost. Ordered it will see how it goes. Still in the return window for the battery and abxy board.

Thanks for your help.
 
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There is a bend on the cable it's visible in that you can make it out without a magnifier.

You quoted that this could cause it. There is no tear though. Tried testing for continuity it failed the current didn't pass through. Tried to flatten it but nothing. The ironic thing is where I live the postage is greater than the cost. Ordered it will see how it goes. Still in the return window for the battery and abxy board.

Thanks for your help.
Returning the battery and ABXY board is a tough call.

On one hand, KTR-003 batteries are relatively hard to find and come by BUT keeping a spare battery where the first battery still has a lot of service life in it would be a waste for the spare battery. Li-ion batteries will degrade over time even when not being used. If you plan to keep the spare battery, have it charged at 50% and store it somewhere cool and dry.

I would hate for your luck to turn out where somehow BOTH the power flex cable and powerboard were damaged. There's no real way of separating the two unless you had another working n3DS to test the parts on.

However, there is a way to indirectly test if your power cable is bad, but it's super risky and can kill the motherboard if done wrong. I don't recommend this method, but it should be possible to jump the pins on the connector where the cable plugs into if you know which exact two traces are responsible for signaling that the (POWER) button is being pressed. Jump or touch the wrong set of pins → instant hardbrick (dead motherboard).
 
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Broomoperator

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Returning the battery and ABXY board is a tough call.

On one hand, KTR-003 batteries are relatively hard to find and come by BUT keeping a spare battery where the first battery still has a lot of service life in it would be a waste for the spare battery. Li-ion batteries will degrade over time even when not being used. If you plan to keep the spare battery, have it charged at 50% and store it somewhere cool and dry.

I would hate for your luck to turn out where somehow BOTH the power flex cable and powerboard were damaged. There's no real way of separating the two unless you had another working n3DS to test the parts on.

However, there is a way to indirectly test if your power cable is bad, but it's super risky and can kill the motherboard if done wrong. I don't recommend this method, but it should be possible to jump the pins on the connector where the cable plugs into if you know which exact two traces are responsible for signaling that the (POWER) button is being pressed. Jump or touch the wrong set of pins → instant hardbrick (dead motherboard).

The power flex cable have continuity could I have both faulty abxy board where the IC chip is faulty on both of them like in that video.

They both charge the battery I got the 99% alcohol today after much waiting.

Like I said the battery charges I've let it drain and then see led lighting up. The led go out once fully charged.

Others with same problem got it working with just abxy replacement repair.

I'm going to clean it with isopropyl 99% alcohol but like I said I didn't notice any corosion.

How will I know which IC chip is faulty.

In the video I linked it's only IC chip on the abxy board that's the problem.

There's a thread by leerz on gbatemp where he had similar issues but he reversed the polarity by inserting battery wrong way but abxy board replacement repair made it work.

Thanks for all your help to date.
 
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After replacing or testing for good F1+F2 microfuses, battery, ABXY button/powerboard, and (POWER) button flex cable, process of elimination would point back to the n3DS motherboard.

Fixing that motherboard would require someone with a microscope {to find surface defects}, x-ray machine {to find substrate defects. Ie, broken solder ball joints or cracked IC chips}, reflow work station {to remove&add SMD/SMT components}, very fine tip soldering iron + thin gage wires {rerouting broken traces}, and of course knowledge of not only general circuits but also video gaming hardware, specifically Nintendo handhelds. If the faulty component(s) are too specialized or can't be publicly purchased, we're looking at Louis Rossmann level of repair where you take working components from another dead donor n3DS/n3DSXL motherboard and swap these over to your n3DS motherboard.

Unless you got a friend or locally know someone that does that sort of electronic repairs, the easiest or financially sound solution at this point would be to sell off the n3DS as-is to someone interested in gutting it for spare parts and then buy another 3DS system, preferably the n3DSXL model that has a wider market support in replacement parts (motherboards, shell housing).

If you do happen to know such a person who has those tools as mentioned above and you intend to continue with reviving that n3DS, (s)he would probably focus his/her attention around this area: TI 93045A4 (PMIC) and ceramic caps.
n3DS_TI 93045A4 (PMIC).png


***

EDIT - ??? Hmmm... This store supposedly sells replacement n3DS motherboards. It's too new and no vouching to know if it's a real business or not.
US seller but out of stock; may or may not be available again later.
 
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