Hardware 2DS Battery replacement

[ThoD]

So, my 2DS is close to being 4 years old now and the battery has really started to deteriorate. Currently, it can last only about 2 hours (wifi on and connected with a non-extended memory game running or being suspended) before needing charging again (probably because I've accidentally let it run itself completely dry a bit too many times). It's starting to be a real pain, so I'm looking into replacing it. The 2DS normally has a 1300mA battery (according to wikipedia), but that's kinda not enough to go on as I can only find batteries for 3DS. Are the batteries the exact same? I've found both 1300mA and 2000mA ones (both OEM), so are they for different models or I can just get the 2000mA one and be able to play for longer? Also, can someone link me a guide for the battery change? I've never opened a 2DS before, so want to make sure to learn the layout to avoid any accidents.

 

[TurdPooCharger]

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+2DS+Battery+Replacement/35839

You can use the 2000 mAh CTR-003 battery.

 

[Shadow#1]

So, my 2DS is close to being 4 years old now and the battery has really started to deteriorate. Currently, it can last only about 2 hours (wifi on and connected with a non-extended memory game running or being suspended) before needing charging again (probably because I've accidentally let it run itself completely dry a bit too many times). It's starting to be a real pain, so I'm looking into replacing it. The 2DS normally has a 1300mA battery (according to wikipedia), but that's kinda not enough to go on as I can only find batteries for 3DS. Are the batteries the exact same? I've found both 1300mA and 2000mA ones (both OEM), so are they for different models or I can just get the 2000mA one and be able to play for longer? Also, can someone link me a guide for the battery change? I've never opened a 2DS before, so want to make sure to learn the layout to avoid any accidents.

https://store.nintendo.com/ng3/browse/productDetailColorSizePicker.jsp?productId=prod10336

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[ThoD]

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+2DS+Battery+Replacement/35839

You can use the 2000 mAh CTR-003 battery.

Thanks for the link, keep forgetting to bookmark that site and can never remember it when I need it...

As for the CTR-003, I've found a CTR-003 and an SPR-003, what's the difference between the two? They price for the CTR one is almost twice as high as the SPR one, so I assume there is quite some difference. Using a EU system by the way.

https://store.nintendo.com/ng3/browse/productDetailColorSizePicker.jsp?productId=prod10336

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

As I said in the OP, I already have found where to get them, but don't exactly know if that one is the only one that will work properly. This is the one I've found thats CTR-003: https://www.game-show.gr/shop/ninte...eable-battery-nintendo-3ds-screwdriver-black/ and have found the same one at 1300mA in the same store.

 

[Shadow#1]

Thanks for the link, keep forgetting to bookmark that site and can never remember it when I need it...

As for the CTR-003, I've found a CTR-003 and an SPR-003, what's the difference between the two? They price for the CTR one is almost twice as high as the SPR one, so I assume there is quite some difference. Using a EU system by the way.


As I said in the OP, I already have found where to get them, but don't exactly know if that one is the only one that will work properly. This is the one I've found thats CTR-003: https://www.game-show.gr/shop/ninte...eable-battery-nintendo-3ds-screwdriver-black/ and have found the same one at 1300mA in the same store.

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[TurdPooCharger]

As for the CTR-003, I've found a CTR-003 and an SPR-003, what's the difference between the two? They price for the CTR one is almost twice as high as the SPR one, so I assume there is quite some difference. Using a EU system by the way.

The SPR-003 battery is for old and new 3DS XL. It won't work on O2DS. They have different shapes. Batteries are not region specific. AC charger adapters to respective country wall outlets are.

As I said in the OP, I already have found where to get them, but don't exactly know if that one is the only one that will work properly. This is the one I've found thats CTR-003: https://www.game-show.gr/shop/ninte...eable-battery-nintendo-3ds-screwdriver-black/ and have found the same one at 1300mA in the same store.

You can use that battery, but it is not an official Nintendo one. A lot of those are sold on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rechargeab...nt-for-Nintendo-2DS-2000mAh-3-7V/321650270798

That means it may or may not have a real capacity of 2000 mAh. The only ways you'd be able to tell are if you measured the mass (g) vs your old battery (approximately 53% heavier) and tests that it lasts 50% longer.

It's up to you which battery you choose. Gamble in possibly scoring a bigger battery or stick with the safe route with an official made part?

 

[ThoD]

404 not found

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Net Neutrality /s

It's just a website that allows only traffic from the Balkans, UK and PARTS of the US, don't mind it too much if it can't load

The SPR-003 battery is for old and new 3DS XL. It won't work on O2DS. They have different shapes. Batteries are not region specific. AC charger adapters to respective country wall outlets are.


You can use that battery, but it is not an official Nintendo one. A lot of those are sold on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rechargeab...nt-for-Nintendo-2DS-2000mAh-3-7V/321650270798

That means it may or may not have a real capacity of 2000 mAh. The only ways you'd be able to tell are if you measured the mass (g) vs your old battery (approximately 53% heavier) and tests that it lasts 50% longer.

It's up to you which battery you choose. Gamble in possibly scoring a bigger battery or stick with the safe route with an official made part?

Alright, thanks for clarifying, but how can I tell apart OEM ones from regulars? They look exactly the same... The site I linked had it listed as OEM. Is this OEM one at least? http://abertech.gr/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2620 (1300mA but if it's reliable, then it's good enough) A new 1300mA battery can last 7+ hours of usage for the things I do, which is good enough, if I can't find 2000mA one OEM then I don't really mind.

Also, what's the rate of deterioration and discharge these batteries have when NOT used? I'm considering buying 2-3 to have extras if needed in some years since they may stop production at some point and don't want them to die before I can even use them...

 

[TurdPooCharger]

Alright, thanks for clarifying, but how can I tell apart OEM ones from regulars? They look exactly the same... The site I linked had it listed as OEM. Is this OEM one at least? http://abertech.gr/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2620 (1300mA but if it's reliable, then it's good enough) A new 1300mA battery can last 7+ hours of usage for the things I do, which is good enough, if I can't find 2000mA one OEM then I don't really mind.

Legitimate Nintendo batteries are labeled with their company logo. Check the highlighted section: Nintendo vs Generic

This doesn't stop a counterfeiter battery maker from selling cheap knock offs slapping that Nintendo print, so you can't really go by what it says. That 2000 mAh shouldn't be considered OEM, but hey, if I'm a electronic store pushing to sell my goods and you as the customer don't know any better, why not give it that label?

The only way you'll know you got a good battery is after you purchased, received, and tested it against what you should expect it to perform lasting.

Also, what's the rate of deterioration and discharge these batteries have when NOT used? I'm considering buying 2-3 to have extras if needed in some years since they may stop production at some point and don't want them to die before I can even use them...

All lithium-ion batteries from cellphones to 3DS to computers start to go bad the moment they're made and leave the factory. You should not buy more than a single battery unless you like to swap them out from frequent playing during travels. Even then, an external battery bank is a better alternative than battery swapping.

This also means your replacement battery has a high chance it will be an old stock made years ago, so it's already not as good as your original battery at its best four years ago. There's no real way to ensure you get a new battery that's really new -or- a new battery that's expiring.


If you do end up getting spare batteries for long term storage, the recommended charge capacity is 50%. Maximum charge or empty are quickest for naturally deteriorating li-ion. Keep them away from sunlight and heat in a place that's dry, cool, and dark (not a refrigerator or freezer, but maybe inside an air conditioner HVAC unit closest wrapped in zip-block bag).

 

[ThoD]

Legitimate Nintendo batteries are labeled with their company logo. Check the highlighted section: Nintendo vs Generic

This doesn't stop a counterfeiter battery maker from selling cheap knock offs slapping that Nintendo print, so you can't really go by what it says. That 2000 mAh shouldn't be considered OEM, but hey, if I'm a electronic store pushing to sell my goods and you as the customer don't know any better, why not give it that label?

The only way you'll know you got a good battery is after you purchased, received, and tested it against what you should expect it to perform lasting.


All lithium-ion batteries from cellphones to 3DS to computers start to go bad the moment they're made and leave the factory. You should not buy more than a single battery unless you like to swap them out from frequent playing during travels. Even then, an external battery bank is a better alternative than battery swapping.

This also means your replacement battery has a high chance it will be an old stock made years ago, so it's already not as good as your original battery at its best four years ago. There's no real way to ensure you get a new battery that's really new -or- a new battery that's expiring.


If you do end up getting spare batteries for long term storage, the recommended charge capacity is 50%. Maximum charge or empty are quickest for naturally deteriorating li-ion. Keep them away from sunlight and heat in a place that's dry, cool, and dark.

Thanks for the info. Second one I linked (the 1300mA one) is OEM, so I'll go with that one! And I'll get just one I guess, then get a backup one in about 2 years (or whenever the production is about to stop).

Gonna order one, so thread's been resolved, someone lock to avoid pointless bumps (all important info on this have been clarified).