Yes I've been booting mostly L4T Ubuntu (occasionally LineageOS too), the open-source brcmfmac driver is indeed there, with the required firmware binary files. I don't know if there is any way to dump or flash the chip with that though.
My equipment is slowly dripping over the week, will be able to solder at home then
I'll be sure to check the cap once I fix the other short but I'm pretty sure it's fine.What made think of this one?
I had fix more then 3-5 switch (orange screen. ）
you need another Broken switch ‘ BCM 4356.
new chip is unuseful.
Like my picture is a broken board.
but now I don't have enough this IC anymore......
I think that the BCM4356 had a JTAG interface.
can we use a jlink to dump an old chip ,and reflash a new chip?
you need another Broken switch ‘ BCM 4356.
new chip is unuseful.
Like my picture is a broken board.
but now I don't have enough this IC anymore......
I think that the BCM4356 had a JTAG interface.
can we use a jlink to dump an old chip ,and reflash a new chip?
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That's what @acidcoolxxx and I are trying to figure out, but I can't try anything until I get my switch to see the wifi chip again.
Right he said that but multiple people have now confirmed it won't work with a new chip, so I'm inclined to believe it ^^
Hey guys,
I have an NS recently bought with an orange screen and the same problems described by @GrimDim and it seems the problem is the infamous BCM4356. I have a donor board ( since new BCM4356 seems not to work due to software issues ) however I am a bit unsure about reballing or swapping the BCMs.
Reballing should be fine since it is an unpatched unit and it will be running CFW most of the time ( I am assuming airplane mode on and wifi off ) technically not stressing the IC and in the long run improving the IC's lifetime.
Resoldering/swapping seems to be correct fix, but @GrimDim how did you soldered the BCM? Cause I do not have the stencil nor the infrared workstation however I do have a hot air/soldering station. Would you recommend a soldering attempt with the tools I have available?
Thanks, guys.
I have an NS recently bought with an orange screen and the same problems described by @GrimDim and it seems the problem is the infamous BCM4356. I have a donor board ( since new BCM4356 seems not to work due to software issues ) however I am a bit unsure about reballing or swapping the BCMs.
Reballing should be fine since it is an unpatched unit and it will be running CFW most of the time ( I am assuming airplane mode on and wifi off ) technically not stressing the IC and in the long run improving the IC's lifetime.
Resoldering/swapping seems to be correct fix, but @GrimDim how did you soldered the BCM? Cause I do not have the stencil nor the infrared workstation however I do have a hot air/soldering station. Would you recommend a soldering attempt with the tools I have available?
Thanks, guys.
steel disc;
you need a reball steel disc tear down the BCM chip ,reball that ,and soler back on the pcb .
Hi H0ppus,
Not sure what the infrared station is you mention but a hot air soldering station is sufficient. I would highly recommend getting the right stencil though, I got mine from aliexpress. Just checked and there are a bunch for sale, just search 'bcm4356 stencil'. You'll need solder balls, I use 0.25mm leaded. (haven't tried with paste, might be easier to handle)
Also good solder braid to clean the pads and chip, tacky flux, and Kapton tape to hold the chip in place on the stencil. Careful when you heat the balls to affix them to the chip, as the stencil started bulging so I pressed down on it with some tweezers while heating. This is the procedure I followed, but I'm no expert :
-remove both chips with hot air
-clean the pads on board and chip with solder braid, flux and soldering iron (very important to get it as smooth as possible here)
-apply flux to new chip, tape it to stencil with kapton tape aligning pads to holes
-apply balls to stencil, fumble around until there's exactly one ball in every hole, remove any superfluous balls (magnification required!)
-heat balls until shiny
-apply flux to board and solder on new chip
Not sure what the infrared station is you mention but a hot air soldering station is sufficient. I would highly recommend getting the right stencil though, I got mine from aliexpress. Just checked and there are a bunch for sale, just search 'bcm4356 stencil'. You'll need solder balls, I use 0.25mm leaded. (haven't tried with paste, might be easier to handle)
Also good solder braid to clean the pads and chip, tacky flux, and Kapton tape to hold the chip in place on the stencil. Careful when you heat the balls to affix them to the chip, as the stencil started bulging so I pressed down on it with some tweezers while heating. This is the procedure I followed, but I'm no expert :
-remove both chips with hot air
-clean the pads on board and chip with solder braid, flux and soldering iron (very important to get it as smooth as possible here)
-apply flux to new chip, tape it to stencil with kapton tape aligning pads to holes
-apply balls to stencil, fumble around until there's exactly one ball in every hole, remove any superfluous balls (magnification required!)
-heat balls until shiny
-apply flux to board and solder on new chip
From what I could read from this thread.
Would it be possible to extract the code from a working chip ?
I mean if we have a working switch, can we extract the code the chip and burn it in the new chips ?
Would it be possible to extract the code from a working chip ?
I mean if we have a working switch, can we extract the code the chip and burn it in the new chips ?
Thanks for the detailed update.
@OniRj and me are buying some tools and soon we will be able to start experimenting since we already have got 3 units to play around swapping parts.
@GrimDim how are you planning to experiment with reprogramming the BCM4358 ? It should be the case of figuring out the pinout to hook an EEPROM programmer and dump the firmware then reprogram it to a new BCM, shouldn't it?
And regarding the infrared station, if you check YouTube you should find some folks using a sort of pro reworking station. It uses infrared to heat up the IC and get it soldered. I had used one when I've worked in a laptop and repair shop to reflow laptop and smartphones motherboards. Basically, it heats the IC evenly improving the quality of the soldering when compared to a hot air station.
@GrimDim I have some tools and a bit of technical knowledge ( I am not an expert, but Google is around to help ). Let me know if you need some help with the BCM reprogramming.
So I'm not 100% sure but the first thing I'll try is read out the OTP memory on the chip to see if Nintendo makes use of it. This should be possible in software while the chip is installed in the device.
The firmware I'm not so sure as the driver needs a chip-specific firmware binary in order to work, so I think the firmware is loaded onto the chip at runtime.
Cypress data/technical sheets and community forum is a good source of information, and they also have some releases of their wl utility which can read/write the OTP.
@GrimDim I had a quick read about the document you posted and at there end there is a section to check if the chip has been programmed. I will also have a look for the tutorial from @acidcoolxxx to read the OTP.
As per @H0ppus said we are friends are we are trying to fix some switches, we have a total of 2 complete unites and one spare, We are still waiting for a bit of stuff to arrive, so it will take maybe a week more until we have a fully functioning unit to do the tests.
We will make sure to keep everyone updated.
As per @H0ppus said we are friends are we are trying to fix some switches, we have a total of 2 complete unites and one spare, We are still waiting for a bit of stuff to arrive, so it will take maybe a week more until we have a fully functioning unit to do the tests.
We will make sure to keep everyone updated.
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