D
Indeed. If Nintendo sees that you have altered them chances are really slim you will get any warranty.
As @B4rtj4h and @Hario337 said,
for whatever reason you need to send them for repair to Nintendo,
you must use the restore option (full or color only) to flash back your backup.
If you haven't made any backup (you should the first time you connect them to always have the factory values),
just change the color back manually before sending it in.
What do you mean?Could someone tell me all the debug codes & comands???
Thx for advanced
PS:You guys should find a way to record the switch's screen with a usb-c to usb adaptor on the PC
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When is someone going to reply to my las post???
A) it's not relevant to the topic and B) I'm 95% sure that's not possible, without a type-c to HDMI adapter and a USB HDMI capture device
You need to acquire them from decrypted and extracted switch games that you own.
1st link at thanks section in OP.
Nope.
Except if you manage to make a deduction from the serial number.
Other than that, you can see the mfg date of the shells. (It's melted on them, on the inside).
Hi CTCaer!!
I was wondering if there’s any plan of adding HD Rumble calibration functionality.
In my case as many other out there I can feel differences differences on my joy cons, I mean my left joy con is weaker than the right one.
I send them to replace, but here in México Nintendo has no direct support and the company which serves as support told me that my joycons were right and only needed calibration.
The 1st time they “fixed” them the left one vibrated a lot more than the right one, so I told them I wanted them to vibrate the same. They told me to get back the next day. 2nd time was better and they almost feel the same... but in some cases like using the find option on the switch there’s still a difference.
I know is possible to change the intensity of the HD rumble in some way coz they did it so it could be a great addition to your tool.
I was wondering if there’s any plan of adding HD Rumble calibration functionality.
In my case as many other out there I can feel differences differences on my joy cons, I mean my left joy con is weaker than the right one.
I send them to replace, but here in México Nintendo has no direct support and the company which serves as support told me that my joycons were right and only needed calibration.
The 1st time they “fixed” them the left one vibrated a lot more than the right one, so I told them I wanted them to vibrate the same. They told me to get back the next day. 2nd time was better and they almost feel the same... but in some cases like using the find option on the switch there’s still a difference.
I know is possible to change the intensity of the HD rumble in some way coz they did it so it could be a great addition to your tool.
@Puchugenzo
You can't calibrate the HD Rumble, because there's no calibration data inside them.
What they did was actually "calibrating" them by re-enforcing the padding or re-adjusting it, so the metal casing of HD rumble does not hit the shells.
The padding is the white thing that wraps the linear resonant actuators (HD rumble) here:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/wVPEUVACywDrALKU.medium
Additionally, have in mind these 2 things:
1. The screen that lets you find the joy-con, does a different frequency vibration to each joy-con/pro controller.
That means that you will always hear a different sound for every controller.
2. Because of the different internal designs, left and right joy-con vibrate a little bit differently.
Because, you normally always find differences with these (the padding is applied by hand), just forget it and enjoy your Switch.
At first you will try to avoid thinking about it, but after a while you will just forget it and enjoy it.
(Been there, done that.)
You can't calibrate the HD Rumble, because there's no calibration data inside them.
What they did was actually "calibrating" them by re-enforcing the padding or re-adjusting it, so the metal casing of HD rumble does not hit the shells.
The padding is the white thing that wraps the linear resonant actuators (HD rumble) here:
https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/wVPEUVACywDrALKU.medium
Additionally, have in mind these 2 things:
1. The screen that lets you find the joy-con, does a different frequency vibration to each joy-con/pro controller.
That means that you will always hear a different sound for every controller.
2. Because of the different internal designs, left and right joy-con vibrate a little bit differently.
Because, you normally always find differences with these (the padding is applied by hand), just forget it and enjoy your Switch.
At first you will try to avoid thinking about it, but after a while you will just forget it and enjoy it.
(Been there, done that.)
@CTCaer
Thanks for making it clear!!
At the moment I’m getting used to it, in most of the games it’s almos unnoticeable and it helps a lot.
As for the padding stuff, my joycons doesn’t seem to be opened. Probably the “calibration” has to be with the current sent to the HD Rumble module, who knows?
What I noticed when I picked up my joy cons was that the battery charge was too low as if they really did something with them... pretty odd. Just wanted to mention it.
Anyway, I think will follow your advice and stop being paranoid.
Thanks for making it clear!!
At the moment I’m getting used to it, in most of the games it’s almos unnoticeable and it helps a lot.
As for the padding stuff, my joycons doesn’t seem to be opened. Probably the “calibration” has to be with the current sent to the HD Rumble module, who knows?
What I noticed when I picked up my joy cons was that the battery charge was too low as if they really did something with them... pretty odd. Just wanted to mention it.
Anyway, I think will follow your advice and stop being paranoid.
As @Hario337 said, I have them already. Thanks anyway!
I'm missing the mario red ones though. I have the colors, but because they are newer, I want to check if something changed inside SPI over the pass of months.
Yes.
Connect them to PC, open Joy-Con toolkit. This will light up the HOME led.
Without disconnecting them or pressing the sync button:
Slide them inside the Switch's rails to auto-pair them. You will see that the led stays on, so now you can remove them from the rails and play wirelessly if you want.
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BTW, here's an update on the state of Joy-Con Toolkit:
The last days, I'm implementing a new Color picker dialog that is a clone of Photoshop's color picker dialog.
It will let you choose in RGB, HSB/HSV and HEX.
A nice new feature add to this is that you will be able to pick a color from anywhere on your screen. So if you want to pick a color from an image you found online, you will now be able to pick it directly. (Without the need to open the image inside a special image editor).
It's almost ready. I only need to implement presets adding/deleting/saving/loading.
Lastly, I'm implementing Dual joy-con support with selector list. For now, it will only support 1 Left and 1 Right Joy-Con. Not 2 of the same.
This will affect the button testing, in which you will be able to test the pair of Joy-Con like it's 1 controller.
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