Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

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Hmm yeah I noticed that too when taking the system apart for the first time. All I can input is, use the proper size phillips screw driver ( I used a #00), as a slotted one will most likely bend the blade. Apply enough down force to prevent the driver from slipping out as you do not want to strip the heads and turn slowly from there. :) Best of luck

I think I should take a break. Fingers hurt and I damaged my top screen trying.
 
I had mine setup as close to yours and n1ghtys as possible. I never had any rubber padding did however use white electrical tape. Unfortunately I got my proto board at RadioShack (nuff said) and I believe that the pogo pins are actually too long, or the cuts on the sides of the boards weren't the proper size. (case wouldn't close without bulging) I will let you be the judge http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Spherical-Radius-Spring-Loaded/dp/B008LTKMG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393097542&sr=8-1&keywords=uxcell test pin spherical

Still if there is someone with better skills than I, I would be happy to commission someone to make one of these for me. In which case PM me. ;)
ye, those are waaaay too long.

I don't know if the size they refer to in the product listing is with the pogo pin extended or retracted, but my pogopins are 7mm when retracted and 8.9mm when extended.
The 3ds shell closes fully and snugly.
 
I think I should take a break. Fingers hurt and I damaged my top screen trying.
Yeah they are in quite tight compared to most things, if a screw is in tight you really have to use the correct screw driver, if you ruin the head of the screw.....well then the only way to open it wouldn't be pretty.......just try pick up a lil precision screw driver set
 
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well the wires go to different pins then the switched around wires go to the sd adaptor

don't worry about it too much just follow the first one i promise it works :rofl2:

if it helps you understand imagine this....the red road goes from clk to clk, if we change the red road to go from grd to grd....the road is still red it just starts and ends at a different location
Ok, so when I cut open a micro USB cable and connect the other end to the connector, how do i know which wire of the cable represents the connector's pin inside the 3DS XL?
 
I wish I had the diagram above when I did it, wound up with red being cmd, then clk, dat0, and gnd.

I also have no idea what will happen if someone plugs a smartphone charger into the port, but it can't be good.
 
I wish I had the diagram above when I did it, wound up with red being cmd, then clk, dat0, and gnd.

I also have no idea what will happen if someone plugs a smartphone charger into the port, but it can't be good.

you could just swap 2 of them around on the motherboard and on the adaptor
 
you could just swap 2 of them around on the motherboard and on the adaptor
I could, but I mounted the port with hot glue. I simply decided to keep a close watch on my system and get a rubber plug for the micro USB hole. The mod works fine, I'm using normatt's patch and already unbricked once.
 
yeah you wouldn't need to change the usb port wires i know they are a pain, but if you swap gnd and cmd on both the sd adapter and the wires that connect to the motherboard....it would still work but the vcc wire (red) on chargers and usb cables etc would run to gnd, and should be safer than running to nand....should someone actually plug a charger into it :unsure:


....which leaves me wondering.....if i where to get one of the bare usb ends instead of using a usb cable to make the sd adapter.......i think you could actually make the port double up as a charging port XD
 
yeah you wouldn't need to change the usb port wires i know they are a pain, but if you swap gnd and cmd on both the sd adapter and the wires that connect to the motherboard....it would still work but the vcc wire (red) on chargers and usb cables etc would run to gnd, and should be safer than running to nand....should someone actually plug a charger into it :unsure:


....which leaves me wondering.....if i where to get one of the bare usb ends instead of using a usb cable to make the sd adapter.......i think you could actually make the port double up as a charging port XD

This is a good point. I could do this, but I don't trust myself enough. This was my 7th or 8th-ever soldering job. I'm not about to take it apart again. :P
 
This is a good point. I could do this, but I don't trust myself enough. This was my 7th or 8th-ever soldering job. I'm not about to take it apart again. :P
quit while your ahead :yaysp:

atleast if your 3ds ever gets stolen you can laugh with the knowledge they will probs fry it because they dont know not to plug a charger in there :evil:
 
quit while your ahead :yaysp:

atleast if your 3ds ever gets stolen you can laugh with the knowledge they will probs fry it because they dont know not to plug a charger in there :evil:

are you quoting bubs?

and yes. No idiots can have my 3ds!

It would still be cool to find a way to replace the backing of the 3ds, resulting in a pogo-pin style nand connection, as well as a onboard method of restoring nand and unbricking.
 
i think you could actually make the port double up as a charging port XD

Curious how you would go about doing that? You have four wires from the usb, you'd need five to pull this off. Technically usb micro has 5 wires but then you'd need to make a proprietary cable. Hmm not bad to use the vcc and gnd to charge it and the other 3 for clk, cmd, and dat0 but you'll need a cabe with ID pin accessible. Then you wouldn't have to worry about someone plugging it into the PC or USB charger as it would serve to only charge. Though I am not sure at what voltage levels the data lines are at, 5 or 3.3.
 
yeah they should be ok, some need the little metal tabs cut off or bent back down if they are sticking up, but those ones look like they are already flat so should be fine
 
Hiya. So I finally got around to having a go at doing the the solderless board thing for this, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.


AagO20o.jpg



Was lucky enough to get a ribbon cable and connector that I could use to create the adapter like that, so it's super easy to route the cable out of the 3DS without need to create holes anywhere or try and wrangle something with the lanyard holes on the corners.

I went over the whole thing with the multimeter, testing from the pogo pins to the pins on the SD adapter to make sure that each path only led where it was supposed to and there were no crossings with any of them, and that's all fine. But I can't seem to be able to do anything with it now. The 3DS turns on properly when nothing is connected, and I can get it to trigger a 200 or 400 error by bridging the CMD and CLK/DAT0 contacts on the SD adapter with a pair of tweezers. But I can't seem to do get it to get the right error with the SD reader so that I can dump to the PC.

I was planning on using this Belkin SD card reader that we have, but it doesn't trigger anything on the 3DS. Occasionally I have gotten a 200 error (and once even an F/F/0/0 one :/) but no idea why it shows up sometimes and not most. Tried various combinations of plugging it into the computer before plugging it into the 3DS, trying to safely remove it, etc, but all I can manage is to trigger a 400 error but be unable to read it.

The other one I have is a Chronos brand multi card reader, and it usually triggers a 200 error when switching the 3DS on while plugged into it. Although now it seems to be opting for 200 instead. But it seems to take a ridiculously long time to settle after plugging into the PC, although it's perfectly fine when plugging it in with a normal SD card. Same goes for the other, actually.


So yeah. Any ideas on what else I could test to make sure there isn't something else wrong/any ways to fix it?
 
So yeah. Any ideas on what else I could test to make sure there isn't something else wrong/any ways to fix it?

Hmm if your continuity between your pins and your SD adapter are fine then I'd check the connection to the main board, maybe lightly swap the test points on the motherboard with pure IPA. You might want to check also by trying without the system together and then together again, if it works just while it's apart and you're applying press to make the connection then it might just be that they are not being firmly pressed when the case is sealed.

Very nice work by the way, looks neat and doesn't require any case modification.
 

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