Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

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Maybe u din solder the pogo pins to enough pads to give it strength or maybe ur pogo pins aren't long enough or ur wire got trapped by the shell as u closed it. U could do like n1ghty did, with rubber pads to help distribute tension on the pogopins if they're not long enough. Or even just add solder to the pogopins on the underside of the pcb too, that way they won't move.

I suspect ur pogo pin lifted cause when u closed the shell ur cuts on the pcb weren't big enough or not placed correctly and one of the protuberances of the shell pushed the pcb down lifting the pin and taking out the wire...

Mine didn't lift off the pcb cause my pogopins aren't strong enough to lift the copper from the pcb and, the 3ds shell itself presses them down, not the pcb.

I had mine setup as close to yours and n1ghtys as possible. I never had any rubber padding did however use white electrical tape. Unfortunately I got my proto board at RadioShack (nuff said) and I believe that the pogo pins are actually too long, or the cuts on the sides of the boards weren't the proper size. (case wouldn't close without bulging) I will let you be the judge http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Spherical-Radius-Spring-Loaded/dp/B008LTKMG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393097542&sr=8-1&keywords=uxcell test pin spherical

Still if there is someone with better skills than I, I would be happy to commission someone to make one of these for me. In which case PM me. ;)
 
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I had mine setup as close to yours and n1ghtys as possible. I never had any rubber padding did however use white electrical tape. Unfortunately I got my proto board at RadioShack (nuff said) and I believe that the pogo pins are actually too long, or the cuts on the sides of the boards weren't the proper size. (case wouldn't close without bulging) I will let you be the judge http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Spherical-Radius-Spring-Loaded/dp/B008LTKMG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393097542&sr=8-1&keywords=uxcell test pin spherical

Still if there is someone with better skills than I, I would be happy to commission someone to make one of these for me. In which case PM me. ;)


these ones are 3mm smaller might have been a nicer fit
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-0-87mm-..._sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QXRR0HWFMD2Z76FXMQQ
 

Yeah these probably would have worked better. Oh well I tried salvaging the board I was working on, and I screwed it all up. Pulled two wires off of the DAT0 pogo pin and the CMD pogo pin. As far as im concerned, im done until I can get a layout of what the pcb should look like( all the pics i have found apparently didnt help me) so I don't have to guess when I go to attempt another board, and or finding someone kind enough to make me one for a fee. The wires used were 30 AWG from Jinnpan's SD mod kit, and im wondering if I should have used larger ones.
 
I'm confused about how to connect the wires on the micro USB connector. I found these two diagramms, but the connections on the USB connector are different:




Which one is right?
 
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I followed the first one and it worked fine, if you actually look at the picture they end up the same it's just the connection to the usb is in a different order
 
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So here is a quick version of mine for the 3DS using standard 1mm pitch female headers. I had to remove one of the screw post though and hand file the case a bit. :(
784lu.jpg
784oN.jpg

784p1.jpg
 
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I followed the first one and it worked fine, if you actually look at the picture they end up the same it's just the connection to the usb is in a different order
Exactly, that's what confuses me. Doesn't the order of the connector pin has to much the order of the SD-Adapter's pins?
 
Doesn't the order of the connector pin has to much the order of the SD-Adapter's pins?

Yes it does, a lot of times with the adapters there will be 8 pins as the VSS pins are internally connected, pins 3 and 6. Your best bet is to use a multimeter in continuity mode and make sure the adapter is going to the pins you expect.

Edit: That usb picture confuses me, you can directly tie USB signals to the memory without a level shifter or a USB to serial type device? Or are you using the usb header just as a connector to the SD card reader? I still would be weary incase someone tried to plug it in directly to the computer as the data 0 line is going to be at 5V DC :blink:

usbcable.jpg
 
Exactly, that's what confuses me. Doesn't the order of the connector pin has to much the order of the SD-Adapter's pins?
look again this time just look at the pads on the motherboard and the pins on the micro sd adapter......they end up in the same place just taking a different road :P
 
Yes it does, a lot of times with the adapters there will be 8 pins as the VSS pins are internally connected, pins 3 and 6. Your best bet is to use a multimeter in continuity mode and make sure the adapter is going to the pins you expect.

Edit: That usb picture confuses me, you can directly tie USB signals to the memory without a level shifter or a USB to serial type device? Or are you using the usb header just as a connector to the SD card reader? I still would be weary incase someone tried to plug it in directly to the computer as the data 0 line is going to be at 5V DC :blink:

usbcable.jpg
yeah i have kinda warned people about that fact XD,

there is little rubber bungs you can get that would prevent someone accidentally plugging a usb cable or a charger, suppose it would be best really though to line vcc up with grd
 
look again this time just look at the pads on the motherboard and the pins on the micro sd adapter......they end up in the same place just taking a different road :P
There is the confusing part. How can the motherboard pins on both versions end up on the same SD-Adapter pins when different input pins of the micro USB connector are used on both versions? Shouldn't the output of the micro USB be different in both versions when there's different input? :wacko:
 
well the wires go to different pins then the switched around wires go to the sd adaptor

don't worry about it too much just follow the first one i promise it works :rofl2:

if it helps you understand imagine this....the red road goes from clk to clk, if we change the red road to go from grd to grd....the road is still red it just starts and ends at a different location
 
How do you cut through plastic

You can use a rotary tool/drill press with a drill or routing bit, a hand file/rasp, scoring and snapping just to name a few ways. I prefer a drill press when making holes through plastic and hand files for shaping. For small work hand files work great with some patience.
 
Any tips on unscrewing tight screws? The screws on the back of the normal 3DS are really, REALLY tight. Spent 2 hours and still 5 of them left.
 
Hmm yeah I noticed that too when taking the system apart for the first time. All I can input is, use the proper size phillips screw driver ( I used a #00), as a slotted one will most likely bend the blade. Apply enough down force to prevent the driver from slipping out as you do not want to strip the heads and turn slowly from there. :) Best of luck
 
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