Hardware Absolute fix to 160-1400 error

[Ysecond]

For me，soldering the flying wires is a nightmare

 

[MegaDeKay]

i can confirm doing this fixed the display output, but now my Gamepad is throwing a 165-3423 error, which seems there's absolutely

Well, there is some info: gamepad isn't synced according to that message. Maybe an issue with the wireless module not being properly inserted after reassembly?

https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7222/~/error-code:-165-3423

A suggestion from Reddit: "Turn off the pad manually and reset it, (hold down the power button for about 30 seconds) and then turn on the console via the power button on the actual console not the controller."

 

[Drakkar Blackblaze]

Well, there is some info: gamepad isn't synced according to that message. Maybe an issue with the wireless module not being properly inserted after reassembly?

https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7222/~/error-code:-165-3423

A suggestion from Reddit: "Turn off the pad manually and reset it, (hold down the power button for about 30 seconds) and then turn on the console via the power button on the actual console not the controller."

the repair i posted is on the main console, so no reassembly on the Gamepad was done, when i was testing the display i took it out just to notice its dead too

still, i opened it too and reseated the wireless module just in case to no avail, what i want to know if its really the wifi module or not, a 165-3000 error indicates a total failure of the module, which i can verify removing the module, since that error pops instead of 165-3423 when the module is not present

i will be honest with you though, referencing official Nintendo support is absolutely no help, they will just tell you to reset and hope for the best, which as a hobbyist tech its about the very first thing to do before starting to scour the net
with all due respect, do you think i would be able to solder onto miniature points and not think of "turn it off and on again"?

Nintendo support and that Reddit post are the only 2 instances i found about this error on the whole internet

 

[MegaDeKay]

with all due respect, do you think i would be able to solder onto miniature points and not think of "turn it off and on again"?

Sorry, I didn't mean to offend you. When you said you couldn't find anything about this error, I took that literally and was just trying to be helpful. In fact, I owe you a big favor: it was because of this thread you started that I was able to pick up a broken WiiU and get it working perfectly again

https://gbatemp.net/threads/absolute-fix-to-160-1400-error.572879/post-10288224

 

[Drakkar Blackblaze]

Sorry, I didn't mean to offend you. When you said you couldn't find anything about this error, I took that literally and was just trying to be helpful. In fact, I owe you a big favor: it was because of this thread you started that I was able to pick up a broken WiiU and get it working perfectly again

https://gbatemp.net/threads/absolute-fix-to-160-1400-error.572879/post-10288224

i see i see, its fine then, glad my post helped you fix your Wii U

 

[zerofalcon]

here i am with another update, today i wanted to check on my Wii U after a bit of not playing it, and again, i had no video signal, so here we go, opening the damn thing again, this time, the other filter in the HDMI line was faulty, so i had to remove it too, and add direct lines to fix it, this time i snapped some photos to show the procedure

View attachment 439981
here you can see my previous fix on CM7 already covered with solder mask, this time CM8 was failing, one of the lines didn't had continuity


View attachment 439982
Microscope picture snapped while bridging CM8, it looks messy i know, but when the solder points are sooooooo tiny this is the best i can do with my level of expertise


View attachment 439983
here's how CM7 looks in case people are curious, probably a bit more messy than CM8 because i didn't had the microscope or precision soldering iron i have now


View attachment 439984
size comparison of the work site with the blade of my exacto knife, its absolutely minuscule


i can confirm doing this fixed the display output, but now my Gamepad is throwing a 165-3423 error, which seems there's absolutely no info about, thanks Nintendo, for making this ordeal as long and grueling as can be

Im going to perform this fix too thanks for the valuable info. btw (related to the code error), did you check the antenas inside the console? maybe something was disconected/damaged during the process.

 

[Drakkar Blackblaze]

Im going to perform this fix too thanks for the valuable info. btw (related to the code error), did you check the antenas inside the console? maybe something was disconected/damaged during the process.

as i mentioned to MegaDeKay, the gamepad error is completely unrelated to the display fix, since the fix was in the console and the one giving the error now is the Gamepad only, i just felt the need to mention because the Wii U as a whole feels like an endless source of electronic problems

 

[Devante]

Sorry if it was asked, I didn't see it skimming through this post.

Is there anything bad about just removing the filter and using the wire method?

Post automatically merged: Jun 21, 2024

Hey sorry if I missed this being asked before.

Is there anything wrong with just leaving the wire method in and never replacing the filter?

 

[Drakkar Blackblaze]

Sorry if it was asked, I didn't see it skimming through this post.

Is there anything bad about just removing the filter and using the wire method?

Post automatically merged: Jun 21, 2024

Hey sorry if I missed this being asked before.

Is there anything wrong with just leaving the wire method in and never replacing the filter?

it's been 4 years since i did the modification and it doesn't seem to have any side effects at leaving just the wires, Wii U still turned on without the error after fixing the display filters too

 

[reconfirefly]

I did this fix in 2020 when I got 160-1400, and have been happily using my Wii U here and there.

To my dismay, when I booted it up last night I got the error again, so here's a data point that the repair (replacing the filter) does work, but can also blow again. Curiously, it seemed to happen after accidentally leaving the console on overnight, so I wonder if it overheats and these little parts die.

 

[MrBerzerk]

My Wii U just started getting this error yesterday. I have no continuity on the right side of CM9 and CM10. Am I supposed to have continuity on all 4 lines? I want to fix this, as it is my launch Wii U, and I have quite a few digital purchases on it.

 

[LordCheverongo]

Hello,

Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but I'm in a bit of pickle here.

I'm getting this error and I already confirmed that both filters have continuity. In that case, I suspect the drive itself is faulty, but I want to make sure that's the reason before buying a replacement.

 

[KleinesSinchen]

Hello,

Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but I'm in a bit of pickle here.

I'm getting this error and I already confirmed that both filters have continuity. In that case, I suspect the drive itself is faulty, but I want to make sure that's the reason before buying a replacement.

A new drive, rather another drive PCB will not work.

I haven't followed the homebrew developments in the last two years and don't know if any of the recovery options allow changing the drive PCB or can patch the flaw (it makes no sense to fully lock the Wii U when it can't reach the drive -- the console would work perfectly without).

 

[SDIO]

Each drive has it's own key. The counterpart is stored on the Wii Us seeprom. There is currently no way of retrieving the key from the drive. So if you buy a new drive you would also need the key from the donor consoles seeprom.

Also make sure you have the cable the right way around and it is properly seeted. It's very easy to have it not fully seated.

Another option would be to disable the disc drive in the seeprom settings, so the Menu won't complain about it missing.

 

[LordCheverongo]

Each drive has it's own key. The counterpart is stored on the Wii Us seeprom. There is currently no way of retrieving the key from the drive. So if you buy a new drive you would also need the key from the donor consoles seeprom.

Also make sure you have the cable the right way around and it is properly seeted. It's very easy to have it not fully seated.

Another option would be to disable the disc drive in the seeprom settings, so the Menu won't complain about it missing.

So buying a new drive will not solve the issue?

 

[SDIO]

No. Except if you get the key with it. But I never saw a offer with the key.
Maybe @Lazr1026 still has one?

 

[LordCheverongo]

No. Except if you get the key with it. But I never saw a offer with the key.
Maybe @Lazr1026 still has one?

If I understand correctly, here's what I can do:

1. Check that the drive's ribbon cable is properly connected
2. Buy a new drive and replace it's PCB with my Wii U's drive PCB, assuming the PCB itself is not the issue

I've never homebrewed my Wii U, and I'm guessing that's required in order to access the seeprom settings.

 

[SDIO]

No, if the Problem is the Disc drive, and not something on the Mainboard, then it would be the drives PCB. People remove all the mechanics and just connect the PCB and it still doesn't throw the error.

You can use UDPIH to load minute and disable the drive, even if the console wasn't modded.
Without the Disc drive vWii is broken except for Wii VC tho

 

[LordCheverongo]

No, if the Problem is the Disc drive, and not something on the Mainboard, then it would be the drives PCB. People remove all the mechanics and just connect the PCB and it still doesn't throw the error.

You can use UDPIH to load minute and disable the drive, even if the console wasn't modded.
Without the Disc drive vWii is broken except for Wii VC tho

I think I might have found the culprit last night, when I was reassembling the console.

I noticed these smudges on the drive's cable, but since they're on what I understand is the protected section of the cable, I'm not sure if that could be the cause.

 

[Ysecond]

It looks like a folded FPC，maybe you can check the connectivity of each track by multimeter