Hardware Absolute fix to 160-1400 error

[LordCheverongo]

It looks like a folded FPC，maybe you can check the connectivity of each track by multimeter
View attachment 515629

I checked all tracks and the only ones that don't have connectivity have a black mark on each side.

Edit: A miracle has occured. I partially reassembled the Wii U and I'm no longer getting the dreaded 160-1400 error. I didn't actually change or clean anything, so I'm not sure what happened.

But now there's a new problem. I think I damaged the front panel cable (the blue part came off), so I can't eject the disc that's inside the console.

 

[Ysecond]

It may be that the folded FPC is at the damaged edge.
the blue part came off ？ It's not a big problem. You just need to insert it into its original position

 

[LordCheverongo]

It may be that the folded FPC is at the damaged edge.
the blue part came off ？ It's not a big problem. You just need to insert it into its original position

That part looked folded because of the camera flash. Besides the smudges I mentioned, the cable is in seemingly perfect condition.

Regarding the front panel cable, I noticed the power and eject disc lights briefly turn on when I wiggle the cable, so it looks like it's not making full contact with the socket.

Edit: I used a bit of scotch tape to tape the cable to the disc drive and now both lights turn on. Now the power button works, but the eject button doesn't.

Edit of the edit: The eject button is working again. The front panel cable is very sensitive, so any slight movement can cause the button to stop working.

 

[Drakkar Blackblaze]

here i am with another update, today i wanted to check on my Wii U after a bit of not playing it, and again, i had no video signal, so here we go, opening the damn thing again, this time, the other filter in the HDMI line was faulty, so i had to remove it too, and add direct lines to fix it, this time i snapped some photos to show the procedure

View attachment 439981
here you can see my previous fix on CM7 already covered with solder mask, this time CM8 was failing, one of the lines didn't had continuity


View attachment 439982
Microscope picture snapped while bridging CM8, it looks messy i know, but when the solder points are sooooooo tiny this is the best i can do with my level of expertise


View attachment 439983
here's how CM7 looks in case people are curious, probably a bit more messy than CM8 because i didn't had the microscope or precision soldering iron i have now


View attachment 439984
size comparison of the work site with the blade of my exacto knife, its absolutely minuscule


i can confirm doing this fixed the display output, but now my Gamepad is throwing a 165-3423 error, which seems there's absolutely no info about, thanks Nintendo, for making this ordeal as long and grueling as can be

Coming back with some news about the HDMI port filters
It seems that technology has advanced and TVs have become more picky about HDMI devices sticking to the spec, otherwise they will do weird stuff

Back when i replaced the HDMI filters marked as CM7 and CM8 with direct lines, it seems the TV i had back then wasn't as picky, but as i have gotten new TVs over the years...things have not been going...very good

So i started to notice that the HDMI signal was getting very flaky at 1080p with a lot of newer TVs, and on my latest one you could hear very "grainy" audio for a few seconds before the signal completely cuts off
At first i thought it was the HDMI chip, so i did away and replaced the whole Panasonic HDMI chip....apparently it worked....for like a couple of weeks before the new chip started giving the exact same symptoms (so i basically threw off a totally working chip )
So, while the Disc Drive filters are there to probably make sure the signal stays fine and its not much of an issue to remove them, the filters by the HDMI port are actually necessary to make the signal stay in spec

So, as a big advice, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE HDMI FILTERS WITH DIRECT LINES
i mean, unless you just want to waste your time, money and sanity

I got some DLP2ADN900HL4L filters off AliExpress to replace them (after removing the nice coat of solder mask i had applied before) and the Wii U now displays fine in 1080p....and hopefully stays that way

 

[marioTSF]

I have the same issue. I checked continuity on CM9 and CM10 and everything seems fine. It also doesn’t look like any of the nearby capacitors are faulty.

When I check the voltage with the Wii U turned on, I can measure a low input voltage going from the Wii U cpu to the disc drive, but after it passes through CM9 and CM10, it drops to zero. Is that normal behavior?

The flex cable has continuity on all the lines that are supposed to, and I checked the drive’s motherboard—both the fuses and capacitors seem to be fine. It’s also receiving 3.3V...

It might be the cable, though, because I remember connecting it incorrectly and forcing it at some point.

 

[bingn]

oh no, i too have the dreaded 160-1400 whats worse is shortly after, video died too, i do not know what will i do after, as i cant replace the video common filters. i guess for now ill try to focus on the disc drive and see what i can do with the gamepad. truly devastating

 

[classiphil]

Same problem here. CM7 and CM8 have only partial continuity. Thanks for the part number, @Drakkar Blackblaze. I ordered them too.

 

[MrBerzerk]

I had this happen to one of my Wii U's. I took it to a cell phone repair shop. Just the board. He replaced both chips for $20CAD. He said "I can bypass them, or you can get another 5-6 years out of new ones, and maybe never have to replace them again.