Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I only do it because I have a lot of unused CPU flex cable. It is really time consuming (removing usb c port, buttons, solder 3 resistors, then soldering all the wires etc etc). I'm not experienced like y'all, this whole process took me an hour.. whereas for pre-assembled flex it's like 10 mins job.
 
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hello. i installed a picofly with firmware 2.80 in my oled switch but it got the failed to init sd card error.
can any problem with the installation cause this error?
i tried sandisk 32 gb and 512 gb both fat32 and exfat and it still gives this error.
still able boot to ofw if wihout sdcard?
 
Hi, I got a question regarding DAT0 and C of the Pico. I installed the ribbon, checked DAT0 and it shows ~0.7V. Great. Connect a wire from it to C, measure C and I get 1.6V which is bad. Checking DAT0 again shows 0.6V. What could cause that? I resoldered the ends, I swapped out the wire, even tried a different C point on the Pico - nothing helps. Starting to lose my marbles here. Any help would be appreciated!
 
Hi, I got a question regarding DAT0 and C of the Pico. I installed the ribbon, checked DAT0 and it shows ~0.7V. Great. Connect a wire from it to C, measure C and I get 1.6V which is bad. Checking DAT0 again shows 0.6V. What could cause that? I resoldered the ends, I swapped out the wire, even tried a different C point on the Pico - nothing helps. Starting to lose my marbles here. Any help would be appreciated!
good question and you should ask someone who passionate on dat0 adapter, cant remember his/her name... with goku avatar
 
I installed the ribbon, checked DAT0 and it shows ~0.7V. Great. Connect a wire from it to C, measure C and I get 1.6V which is bad. Checking DAT0 again shows 0.6V. What could cause that?
If you remove the wire, do you measure 0.7v again?
Once you connect a wire to the C point, you will be measuring through the RP2040 and resistors on that board as well.
Maybe this is an indication that something is wrong with the board.
Weren't there some boards where someone in China mixed up a 47 ohm resistor with a 47K resistor?

good question and you should ask someone who passionate on dat0 adapter, cant remember his/her name... with goku avatar
Maybe @snaker has some idea where to look?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10494778
 
Hi, I got a question regarding DAT0 and C of the Pico. I installed the ribbon, checked DAT0 and it shows ~0.7V. Great. Connect a wire from it to C, measure C and I get 1.6V which is bad. Checking DAT0 again shows 0.6V. What could cause that? I resoldered the ends, I swapped out the wire, even tried a different C point on the Pico - nothing helps. Starting to lose my marbles here. Any help would be appreciated!
Try to reinstall the ribbon, or use another ribbon.
 
If you remove the wire, do you measure 0.7v again?
Once you connect a wire to the C point, you will be measuring through the RP2040 and resistors on that board as well.
Maybe this is an indication that something is wrong with the board.
Weren't there some boards where someone in China mixed up a 47 ohm resistor with a 47K resistor?


Maybe @snaker has some idea where to look?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10494778
Correct. If you measure with rp connected the values will be different. Reversing the probes will give you different value too so have that in mind. Also measuring according to my opinion is completely useless. If you short dat0 with dat1 no measurement will save you. For a thousand time i will say it again. If you have the correct dat0 adapter you don't need to measure anything. Just place it right with lot of tension. Show me a picture under the microscope of your dat0 adapter.
 
Last edited by snaker,
If you remove the wire, do you measure 0.7v again?
Once you connect a wire to the C point, you will be measuring through the RP2040 and resistors on that board as well.
Maybe this is an indication that something is wrong with the board.
Weren't there some boards where someone in China mixed up a 47 ohm resistor with a 47K resistor?
Yes. Even if I don't remove the wire but measure at C I get the 0.7V.
I'm also thinking the board might be bad. I've installed many Pico's, but this is only the second Oled. Has been smooth saying thus far.
Try to reinstall the ribbon, or use another ribbon.
I did not use the ribbon. Only the APU ribbon.
Correct. If you measure with rp connected the values will be different. Reversing the probes will give you different value too so have that in mind. Also measuring according to my opinion is completely useless. If you short dat0 with dat1 no measurement will save you. For a thousand time i will say it again. If you have the correct dat0 adapter you don't need to measure anything. Just place it right with lot of tension. Show me a picture under the microscope of your dat0 adapter.
Image attached. due I did not connect the one anchor point because the DAT0 reading became bad, over 1V once I did that.
 

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I did not use the ribbon. Only the APU ribbon.
For me the thing that attached to the dat0 is called "flex pcb"
Since you said "i installed ribbon" i thought you called that flex pcb a Ribbon.
I assume the ribbon you mean is the one that in the dat0, since you're talking about it.
 
Last edited by abal1000x,
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Image attached. due I did not connect the one anchor point because the DAT0 reading became bad, over 1V once I did that.
Maybe it's the camera angle but your adapter seems somewhat tilted clockwise.
That might cause the dat0 thingy touching another ball under the emmc.
Have you tried re-seating it ?
 
Yes. Even if I don't remove the wire but measure at C I get the 0.7V.
I'm also thinking the board might be bad. I've installed many Pico's, but this is only the second Oled. Has been smooth saying thus far.

I did not use the ribbon. Only the APU ribbon.

Image attached. due I did not connect the one anchor point because the DAT0 reading became bad, over 1V once I did that.
i must see the adapter point that touches the emmc ball under the microscope in order to tell you if the adpter will do. This adapter with one anchor missing is not reliable anymore, the tension might not be enough.
IF you have the correct adapter, even if it has a slight angle difference there is no way to bridge dat0 with dat1. You can check that if you see the gap between the soldering points under the emmc chip at the pic attached.
Also use better flux and a lower soldering temp because your pick is a bit messy. A health install should look like the pics bellow.
I also attached some pics that might interest you.
 

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i must see the adapter point that touches the emmc ball under the microscope in order to tell you if the adpter will do. This adapter with one anchor missing is not reliable anymore, the tension might not be enough.
IF you have the correct adapter, even if it has a slight angle difference there is no way to bridge dat0 with dat1. You can check that if you see the gap between the soldering points under the emmc chip at the pic attached.
Also use better flux and a lower soldering temp because your pick is a bit messy. A health install should look like the pics bellow.
I also attached some pics that might interest you.
Lower soldering temp?
 
look at his pic. Its obvious either the temp is too high or he keeps the soldering iron too much time on the flex. Or the flux doesnt do its job so it makes it harder for him to solder.
Could be bad microscope.
I also use low quality microscope.
Post automatically merged:

I thought higher temp makes soldering easier..?
Using lower temp on component that might get hot, is kind of risky right?
 
Last edited by abal1000x,
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How long the modchip itself will lasts?
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After using a switch with a modchip installed correctly , how many years will it take to the modchip itself to die
 

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