Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[PCR]

Its 1mm from the center of the cmd line.

The vertical resistor?

 

[psycho-neon]

The vertical resistor?

 

[rull_bull]

hi any one have measurements of the clk cmd data reset . cpu .. ja all... in scale diode ? any schematisc for mariko .... i have issue only boot in ofw ...

need valor in diode scale the all point ... to confirmed is ok ... like cmd 0.500 ohm etc

Right back at you, post your values and pictures of your soldering first

 

[deesil]

I added a picofly rp2040-tiny to a V1 patched switch. When I did it I used 36 awg wire with silicon insulation. I had originally intended to use 40 awg magnet wire but it was just too hard to manipulate with the tools I had, and when I did get the wire soldered in, I found that the joints weren't strong enough to keep from being pulled out.

When I packed up the v1 I trimmed the wires down a little too short and didn't have enough length to route them, but I am still a little concerned about how to route them. They're "big" and take up space.

Fortunately I managed to get everything closed up, there are no bulges, and the system is working beautifully.

I'm going to do 3 lites and I'm wondering if I should use the 40 or the 36 awg wire. I bought some fine point tweezers and solder mask. My hope is I can better hold the wire and that I can support the joints with solder mask.

Is this the way to go? Should I use the 36? How do you measure out the length of the wire and do the routing before you've assembled the system? Last time I was trimming and stripping wires that were soldered down... And that was precarious.

 

[psycho-neon]

I added a picofly rp2040-tiny to a V1 patched switch. When I did it I used 36 awg wire with silicon insulation. I had originally intended to use 40 awg magnet wire but it was just too hard to manipulate with the tools I had, and when I did get the wire soldered in, I found that the joints weren't strong enough to keep from being pulled out.

When I packed up the v1 I trimmed the wires down a little too short and didn't have enough length to route them, but I am still a little concerned about how to route them. They're "big" and take up space.

Fortunately I managed to get everything closed up, there are no bulges, and the system is working beautifully.

I'm going to do 3 lites and I'm wondering if I should use the 40 or the 36 awg wire. I bought some fine point tweezers and solder mask. My hope is I can better hold the wire and that I can support the joints with solder mask.

Is this the way to go? Should I use the 36? How do you measure out the length of the wire and do the routing before you've assembled the system? Last time I was trimming and stripping wires that were soldered down... And that was precarious.

Im using 36awg (before 34awg even thicker) and has no issues with soldering them. Just make sure to have enough solder on your tip and onto the board and use flux.

One thing i prep is to cut every wire to 5cm lenght. This way I have enough room for soldering and rerouting wires. Overtime, I built up my own set of placement of the chip as well for each switch so it will be easier for me to cut and reroute wires.

 

[Donnie-Burger]

Finally attempted a Kamikaze

 

[abal1000x]

I added a picofly rp2040-tiny to a V1 patched switch. When I did it I used 36 awg wire with silicon insulation. I had originally intended to use 40 awg magnet wire but it was just too hard to manipulate with the tools I had, and when I did get the wire soldered in, I found that the joints weren't strong enough to keep from being pulled out.

When I packed up the v1 I trimmed the wires down a little too short and didn't have enough length to route them, but I am still a little concerned about how to route them. They're "big" and take up space.

Fortunately I managed to get everything closed up, there are no bulges, and the system is working beautifully.

I'm going to do 3 lites and I'm wondering if I should use the 40 or the 36 awg wire. I bought some fine point tweezers and solder mask. My hope is I can better hold the wire and that I can support the joints with solder mask.

Is this the way to go? Should I use the 36? How do you measure out the length of the wire and do the routing before you've assembled the system? Last time I was trimming and stripping wires that were soldered down... And that was precarious.

Try to use 40awg with insulation.
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005518392770.html

 

[Viktorsilva]

Hey guys

i´m a big fan of this forum because i learn every day from the posts i read here . I started installing modchips in Sony PSX (witch the first pic 12c508F for those who remember )and never stopped since. Here some of my many Switch´s installed mods:

Currently I prefer to make the OLEDs in a top layer version. The end result is incomparable. despite having a return percentage of 3% due to failure or displacement of the Dat0 adapter, the OFW boot often failed on OLEDs thanks to the interference created by the numerous electrical signals from the crossed cables.

As far as MOSFETs are concerned, I prefer installing a single MOSFET directly to the CPU.

I usually remove the MOSFETs with a heat gun from the CPU Flex (NP2016) and I love how easy they are to solder and integrate into the mod. But I recently ordered IRFHS8342 from https://www.reichelt.com/ and they all worked perfectly. But in the last batch that they sent to me, many of them had a strange detail. The Sourse (S) pin is bridged with the Drain (D). So every time I try to use them I get the famous ==* error, which is what you would expect. Is there a way to remove this bridge ?

Pulling power into one of this pins maybe ? I cant find the way even after google for some time ....

here is the batch:

I would like to say that I have been reading this post and of the 733 pages it contains, I have already read 425 ))))

thanks for any advice/Help .

 

[l7777]

I hear a lot of rumblings about Picofly being unstable and causing EMMC issues. Is this really a thing or is this a side effect of the RP2040 based hwfly clones having quality control (I know likely not a thing ) issues?

 

[deeps]

I hear a lot of rumblings about Picofly being unstable and causing EMMC issues. Is this really a thing or is this a side effect of the RP2040 based hwfly clones having quality control (I know likely not a thing ) issues?

it's mostly because people keep installing them with 47 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd, which is also the case for many of the chinese clones, which makes ofw unstable on some switches. Just use 100 ohm and it works perfectly on (almost) all switches

 

[superxoi]

Hey guys

i´m a big fan of this forum because i learn every day from the posts i read here . I started installing modchips in Sony PSX (witch the first pic 12c508F for those who remember )and never stopped since. Here some of my many Switch´s installed mods:



View attachment 416638View attachment 416639View attachment 416645View attachment 416640View attachment 416641View attachment 416642View attachment 416643

Currently I prefer to make the OLEDs in a top layer version. The end result is incomparable. despite having a return percentage of 3% due to failure or displacement of the Dat0 adapter, the OFW boot often failed on OLEDs thanks to the interference created by the numerous electrical signals from the crossed cables.

As far as MOSFETs are concerned, I prefer installing a single MOSFET directly to the CPU.

I usually remove the MOSFETs with a heat gun from the CPU Flex (NP2016) and I love how easy they are to solder and integrate into the mod. But I recently ordered IRFHS8342 from https://www.reichelt.com/ and they all worked perfectly. But in the last batch that they sent to me, many of them had a strange detail. The Sourse (S) pin is bridged with the Drain (D). So every time I try to use them I get the famous ==* error, which is what you would expect. Is there a way to remove this bridge ?

Pulling power into one of this pins maybe ? I cant find the way even after google for some time ....

here is the batch:

View attachment 416648




I would like to say that I have been reading this post and of the 733 pages it contains, I have already read 425 ))))

thanks for any advice/Help .

Use this one instead of irh8342. This one is "1 for 1 console" literally. Forgot the link , the name is aon6414a.

Post automatically merged: Jan 28, 2024

Update on my situation. I have replaced almost all the ic on this 2$ deadboard and the switch boot pass switch joycon logo but greeted with orange screen. I didn't have any spare wifi ic so i took the ic off first. But to my suprise the switch still stuck in orange screen. Do anyone know what components aside from wifi ic causing the orange screen. Thank in advance.

 

[Hassal]

Use this one instead of irh8342. This one is "1 for 1 console" literally. Forgot the link , the name is aon6414a.

Post automatically merged: Jan 28, 2024

Update on my situation. I have replaced almost all the ic on this 2$ deadboard and the switch boot pass switch joycon logo but greeted with orange screen. I didn't have any spare wifi ic so i took the ic off first. But to my suprise the switch still stuck in orange screen. Do anyone know what components aside from wifi ic causing the orange screen. Thank in advance.

According to the panic code orange means an unknown exception something related to SMC.
https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Panic_codes

 

[superxoi]

According to the panic code orange means an unknown exception something related to SMC.
https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Panic_codes

I will investigate this board for two more days. If i can not fix it i will swap the cpu for the other board. This is the first time i encountered an orange green but not causing by wifi ic. Everyday a new lesson. Shit!

 

[gamerpemula]

halo apakah ada yang bisa membantu saya? saya ada kendala tidak bisa membuat emummc

Post automatically merged: Jan 28, 2024

hallo apakah ada yang bisa membantu saya? saya ada kendala tidak bisa creat emummc

 

[Jefix]

Guys, does the "long long short" error only appear if there is a mosfet problem or could there be another reason? I tried the circuit with two and one mosfet, but I get this error every time.
(switch lite)

 

[superxoi]

Guys, does the "long long short" error only appear if there is a mosfet problem or could there be another reason? I tried the circuit with two and one mosfet, but I get this error every time.
(switch lite)

If your mosfet is bad ,remove it and do a new one. 1 or two is not a problem.

 

[Jefix]

I know the mosfet can be replaced. I just want to make sure that the problem is definitely in the transistor and not something else. Soldering such small things is very tedious for me.

 

[psycho-neon]

I know the mosfet can be replaced. I just want to make sure that the problem is definitely in the transistor and not something else. Soldering such small things is very tedious for me.

If your ofw works fine then yes, either the mosfet or the 47ohm resistor on the chip

 

[KingMasta1991]

If anyone needs a v1 flexcable for their HFfly/Picoflys just pm me.
I have a brand new one and would give it away for a couple bucks

 

[SylverReZ]

If anyone needs a v1 flexcable for their HFfly/Picoflys just pm me.
I have a brand new one and would give it away for a couple bucks

They're just cheaper to buy alone on AliExpress. I've seen them go up for $1-3 bucks a piece.