Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Dont you think the red circled piece goes to the left on DAT0 ball which means is the NC ball yet the dat1 on the right side.
true u got me there, just checked the pinout i could sworn it was the left side my bad.

but the right side doesnt look any better.

issue is still the same.

more important is that we see the dat0 adapter that he actually used on the board since this one does not have any soldering, i would guess its not the one he used .
 
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Hi all,

Is It normal that picofly boots ways wafter than hwfly rp2040 based?

I bought some rp2040 based hwfly on ali and I have a boot time of 9sec average, and 2 for the regular pico

Do you have same result?
 
Hi all,

Is It normal that picofly boots ways wafter than hwfly rp2040 based?

I bought some rp2040 based hwfly on ali and I have a boot time of 9sec average, and 2 for the regular pico

Do you have same result?
i personaly never installed a hwfly chip, but in almost every switch i installed a rp2040 zero/tiny is 2-5 sec .
never had any that took longer
 
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true u got me there, just checked the pinout i could sworn it was the left side my bad.

but the right side doesnt look any better.

issue is still the same.

more important is that we see the dat0 adapter that he actually used on the board since this one does not have any soldering, i would guess its not the one he used .
I used the same adapter, I have a bunch of them. So I have oled donor board, is it possible to take the nand from that board?
 
I used the same adapter, I have a bunch of them. So I have oled donor board, is it possible to take the nand from that board?
You can use any nand but your system won't boot unless you restore your original one.
If you don't have your nand backup then there's no way to boot the system you will have to use a donor.
 
I used the same adapter, I have a bunch of them. So I have oled donor board, is it possible to take the nand from that board?
U don't get the point what I meant , u didn't show us the exact same one u used in the oled the one u installed ,so we can she the pins from that one which may have caused the issue.

Like I said u can use another's oled emmc , ur gonna have to reball and reflow,install a picochip.
since u already have the emmc of set a permanent dat0 point.

After u properly installed the picofly you will only be able to boot into hekate till u rebuild your nand otherwise u will only get a black screen

Like I said you will not be able to use Nintendo services after that.

If u want a vid search for sethnix unbrick level 3 on YouTube.
 
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You are awesome thank you very much. I am done with that shitty adapter. No need to take off APU shield it will be nice...
In my subjective view.
This adapter having less risk, but more complicated to works on.

The most problem is the adapter bending when got heated.
Thats why i revised using meshed ground rather solid one.
I use the thinnest pcb in hope that the aluminium case of the emmc could be closed.
Turns out the the height slightly bigger, so it could be closed, but the lock doesn't quite work.

If you just let the emmc open without the case, then i think you might choose the thickest one (with the same price),
to avoid bending the adapter when reball it.

The experience of reball this adapter is quite different.
The 're-alignment' which usually happened when the tin melted, doesn't happened in here.
Thats why i revised the pcb shape to be fitted with the emmc, so i could get a 'gist' the correct position.
This is the most difficulties actually.
I check the connection by checking the VDD pad and CMD pad continuity with its corresponding point on the main board, before put the battery on, to make sure the pin correctly connected.
 
In my subjective view.
This adapter having less risk, but more complicated to works on.

The most problem is the adapter bending when got heated.
Thats why i revised using meshed ground rather solid one.
I use the thinnest pcb in hope that the aluminium case of the emmc could be closed.
Turns out the the height slightly bigger, so it could be closed, but the lock doesn't quite work.

If you just let the emmc open without the case, then i think you might choose the thickest one (with the same price),
to avoid bending the adapter when reball it.

The experience of reball this adapter is quite different.
The 're-alignment' which usually happened when the tin melted, doesn't happened in here.
Thats why i revised the pcb shape to be fitted with the emmc, so i could get a 'gist' the correct position.
This is the most difficulties actually.
I check the connection by checking the VDD pad and CMD pad continuity with its corresponding point on the main board, before put the battery on, to make sure the pin correctly connected.
I will order 0.6mm did you try to change order? Like first emmc in breakout then whole thing into the console? It may help bending issue.

Maybe you could use a coin to keep it in shape?
 
I will order 0.6mm did you try to change order? Like first emmc in breakout then whole thing into the console? It may help bending issue.

Maybe you could use a coin to keep it in shape?
I always choose the lesser risk.

My step is first paste and reball the bottom adapter. If the bending is negligible than goes to reflow it to the mainboard pcb. Then check the continuity of cmd and vdd. Then paste and reball the emmc, then reflow to the adapter. Then check again the continuity of cmd and vdd to the main board.

I choose this order because this is the lesser risk.

If i Reflow the emmc to the adapter first. If its failed then i need to repeat the reballing emmc and reflow it to the adapter again. This might broke the emmc if i do it again and again.

I prefer reball the adapter first. If its failed, the adapter itself is cheap only $1, not much loose. And the mainboard pcb are rigid, its >5layer. So its not easily broken compare to the emmc.

I always choose lesser risk and lowest price as much as possible. Complexity is not a concern for me. As long as the risk is less.
 
I always choose the lesser risk.

My step is first paste and reball the bottom adapter. If the bending is negligible than goes to reflow it to the mainboard pcb. Then check the continuity of cmd and vdd. Then paste and reball the emmc, then reflow to the adapter. Then check again the continuity of cmd and vdd to the main board.

I choose this order because this is the lesser risk.

If i Reflow the emmc to the adapter first. If its failed then i need to repeat the reballing emmc and reflow it to the adapter again. This might broke the emmc if i do it again and again.

I prefer reball the adapter first. If its failed, the adapter itself is cheap only $1, not much loose. And the mainboard pcb are rigid, its >5layer. So its not easily broken compare to the emmc.

I always choose lesser risk and lowest price as much as possible. Complexity is not a concern for me. As long as the risk is less.
In this case you can order the pcbs as panels. I ordered 12x9 panel and a stencil for it, with that I will reball 108 adapter at once and as they connected together there will be no bent I hope. Will see, I will let you know.

By the way thank you again for sharing that working board, you save me lot of time for trial and error.
 
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Hi all,

Is It normal that picofly boots ways wafter than hwfly rp2040 based?

I bought some rp2040 based hwfly on ali and I have a boot time of 9sec average, and 2 for the regular pico

Do you have same result?
It is either your installtion or your console is hard do glitch. Original or clone the boots on picofly firmware are 5 sec on average. Skhynix is the worst nand to glitch of all, but not by much.
 
Hi all,

Is It normal that picofly boots ways wafter than hwfly rp2040 based?

I bought some rp2040 based hwfly on ali and I have a boot time of 9sec average, and 2 for the regular pico

Do you have same result?
I came to learn from this thread that many parameters go into a fast glitch. Most of all is solder quality/quantity. Put a lot in D and S.

I've been using a single MOSFET for a while and I almost always get a fast glitch. I literally sink S and D with solder.
 
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Quick questions:

1- Can picofly toolbox payload through hekate be used to downgrade rp2040 without removing it from the switch? I have an oled switch with the unstable version (2.74) installed. I think that's why it gives the "failed to init sd card" error, and I would like to put it at 2.73

2- Should the 100ohm resistors be placed replacing all the 47ohm ones? That part I still don't understand.
 
i was talking about switch LITE, what are the D point is but where is the S point ?
Post automatically merged:

I came to learn from this thread that many parameters go into a fast glitch. Most of all is solder quality/quantity. Put a lot in D and S.

I've been using a single MOSFET for a while and I almost always get a fast glitch. I literally sink S and D with solder.
i was talking about switch LITE, what are the D point is but where is the S point ?
 
i was talking about switch LITE, what are the D point is but where is the S point ?
Post automatically merged:


i was talking about switch LITE, what are the D point is but where is the S point ?
he was refering to all switches in Generel, if u dont know what D and S point is check the PicofFly Guide
 
Last edited by Dee87,

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