Well, I have good and bad news.View attachment 378462
Now you only need to check using multimeter, each pin goes to where.
The one that goes to the picofly is the Gate(G).
I remember that on the flex pin theres also the D part and the S/GND part.
You might test it using multimeter to know which pin.
From that you could check the D and S part should be like 12Ohms. And the S to GND should be zero ohms. And the D to GND should be 12ohms.
This is why i think that the hwfly design is good. I could add in the firmware to detect whether the connection is correct or not, since D, S, and G is given to the board. But picofly original design didn't so only G comes to the picofly. And we couldn't detect the condition of the connection of D and S. We assume the installer already installed it correctly.
Good news: the flex cable wasn't attached correctly. I resoldered and fixed it. Now it works. The CMD caps were actually good. I was a dumbass and didn't set the correct range on my multimeter. They were actually okay and showed the correct range (4.7k and 47k).
Now for the bad news. Firstly I think the black screen is because I screwed up the display cable port. I must have used the wrong angle when trying to push it in after the install and now it looks like the image below. I can also see markings on the display flex cable, so I think two pins are bent. THIS is what is causing the black screen.
Next, I decided to reassemble and power on without the display to test the mod anyway. The chip still doesn't function as expected. It blinks blue for a loooong time, then there's a white flash and it continues to blink blue for about a minute. After that it shows === (glitch limit reached?). It could also be *** but I have no comparison on long/short flash.
I'm guessing I 100% need to replace the oled connector now. But as for the glitch, is it caused by no display, or is there something else since I do get a white flash before it keeps trying.