Hardware Hall Effect sensor joycon sticks on Amazon

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I already had everything packed up for returning, but I gave it another shot the result however was the same.
Here are the joysticks I received:

View attachment 348241
View attachment 348242

Here's the left joy-con dissembled:
View attachment 348243

The Gulikit joystick in place, however it looks like the ribbon is a lot longer(?) than the original one:
View attachment 348244

And when in installed there's a small gap on the other side:
View attachment 348245

Here's a video trying to exemplify what's happening, I only get this behaviour in the original joycon, if the connector "lock" isn't locked:

View attachment 348246

In the video there is a screw missing on the joycon because now I couldn't even use it stably with both screws.
I have the gaps as well on a Switch Lite. The joystick doesn’t extend all the way to the gaskets.
 

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Last edited by AngelofWoe,
It's no problem of space seems your connector have a bent pin and stops the ribbon to fully enter, try the original sticks and compare how much enters.
I was thinking something similar, it doesn't look fully inserted. Can you show a picture with the lock tab flipped up and the ribbon fully inserted?
 
Am I the only unlucky person that may have gotten a defective unit? Ordered mine on amazon es from Aknes-EU. Replaced both joysticks and the ribbon cable doesn't appear to fully connect with the joystick board on both sides. If I go to the test page while the controller is "dissambled" if I touch the ribbon, the joystick starts "drifting" to the top-left, same behaviour as if it were disconnected.

Has anyone else experienced this?
I also ordered a set from the EU store and can't really complain.
At first I also had this annoying clicking noise on the right joycon (seems to be due to the internal spring) but after a few game sessions the noise can now hardly be heard at all.
All in all I am very satisfied so far :mthr:
 
I also ordered a set from the EU store and can't really complain.
At first I also had this annoying clicking noise on the right joycon (seems to be due to the internal spring) but after a few game sessions the noise can now hardly be heard at all.
All in all I am very satisfied so far :mthr:
would you be so kind and share the EU store address ?
 
It's no problem of space seems your connector have a bent pin and stops the ribbon to fully enter, try the original sticks and compare how much enters.
They enter the connector about the same amount, the protective layer(black/transparent thingy) on the gulikit measures ~4.66mm while the original one is ~4.35mm, but if I check the contacts you can see the marks of the pins making contact.

Original:
PXL_20230119_182149433.jpg

Gulikit:
PXL_20230119_182703184.jpg

PXL_20230119_182404131.jpg



edit: typo
 
Last edited by andreluis034,
They enter the connector about the same amount, the protective layer(black/transparent thingy) on the gulikit measures ~4.66mm while the original one is ~4.35mm, but if I check the contacts you can see the marks of the pins making contact.

Original:
View attachment 348254
Gulikit:
View attachment 348255
View attachment 348258


edit: typo

I gotta say, those look identical to mine.

Here are mine, stock in the back, gulikit in the front.

image.jpg

I would get a pair of bent tweezers and see if you can get them to seat better.
 
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As for the Gulikit King Kong 2 Pro controller... It's hard to judge because I actually suck at dread right now. Been too long since I played. Just took me like 5 minutes to do the Adam Save Skip, and I can't blame it on the controller. Sticks seem fine. I guess the real test is how long they last and if pressing into the stick buttons gets weak.

I did NOT like my OOTB experience, though. First thing I do is look for firmware updates... yup, there is one. So how to? While off, Hold the ABS button and press A to make a folder appear on your computer. WHAT THE HELL IS THE ABS BUTTON?!! (<-my first thought) Instructions in the box do not say. Downloading a manual from the site told me... after I figured it out by playing around a bit.

Then Pairing. I could not figure out how to make it work with the switch in wired mode. It's supposed to work in wired mode! You have to get it working wirelessly, THEN you can plug the USB cable into the dock... but the damn thing is still connected with bluetooth. Turn it off and back on while plugged in to USB... won't work. I have to unplug it, let it connect again, then plug it back in. This actually ruins things for me since I get into situations where I must not use a wireless device (don't ask). If any other owners in here can tell me what I'm missing to get this thing working in wired mode, I'd appreciate it.

The sticks seem to work REALLY well, though. I just need to get used to the (seemingly) longer travel distance for the triggers, for these Metroid dread tricks (and re-learn the timings for the tricks/skips. I can't fault them for that, because they are analog and in the x-input test, looked to be working quite well for a racing game or something like that.

At some point, I'll see if it plays nice with the Quest 2 in Android mode...
 
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I received a pair of Gulikit sticks and... Installing one on the left Joycon has been great, no issues so far after initial calibration. Even on L4T Ubuntu it works really well. But the other stick has click and noise sounds when I move on two directions, it's a bit annoying, but whatever, except that, so good.

Btw, I notice the texture of the cap sticks and the sense when you move them it's a bit different comparing to the originals.
 
I received a pair of Gulikit sticks and... Installing one on the left Joycon has been great, no issues so far after initial calibration. Even on L4T Ubuntu it works really well. But the other stick has click and noise sounds when I move on two directions, it's a bit annoying, but whatever, except that, so good.

Btw, I notice the texture of the cap sticks and the sense when you move them it's a bit different comparing to the originals.
I didn’t notice the click until it was mentioned in this thread. Now that I know about it I can in fact hear it but honestly, it doesn’t bother me or impact my shitty game play one bit. I suspect it will wear off in time.

good idea to test L4T. I hadn’t thought of testing my alt-boots….just in case.

I always run thumb caps so my texture is always the same. I’m curious to see the rest of the replaceable cap collection but will probably still use the thumb caps I’m used to using on all my controllet’s.
 
I didn’t notice the click until it was mentioned in this thread. Now that I know about it I can in fact hear it but honestly, it doesn’t bother me or impact my shitty game play one bit. I suspect it will wear off in time.

good idea to test L4T. I hadn’t thought of testing my alt-boots….just in case.

I always run thumb caps so my texture is always the same. I’m curious to see the rest of the replaceable cap collection but will probably still use the thumb caps I’m used to using on all my controllet’s.
The reason I'm refuse to use additional thumb grips (like the pair that are included on the kit), is because in my case makes it harder to press B button (on the right Joycon) and - button (on the left Joycon). This is due the increased height gained with the grips.
 
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The reason I'm refuse to use additional thumb grips (like the pair that are included on the kit), is because in my case makes it harder to press B button (on the right Joycon) and - button (on the left Joycon). This is due the increased height gained with the grips.
The (-) button was a criminal act of function follows form. It’s a cute idea and all but realistically should have been a circle with a minus symbol on it not some sliver of a piece of plastic that has me playing scratch-n-sniff lotto at 7/11.

As for the B, that’s for (B)acking down. My game play is 100% agressive attack so I’m always on the (A) button and NEVER hit (B) anyways. Kidding...I don’t notice the (B) nearly as much as the (-). Will start paying more attention and see if that’s why I suck at Mario.
 
The reason I'm refuse to use additional thumb grips (like the pair that are included on the kit), is because in my case makes it harder to press B button (on the right Joycon) and - button (on the left Joycon). This is due the increased height gained with the grips.
Even with the standard caps I find hitting -/Minus difficult.
 
Last edited by AngelofWoe,
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Those caps always seem to slip off or make a dirty halo on the joycon shell. I’m becoming hesitant now, because of the reported clicking. But maybe it’s worth it to not have drifting issues.
 
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Those caps always seem to slip off or make a dirty halo on the joycon shell. I’m becoming hesitant now, because of the reported clicking. But maybe it’s worth it to not have drifting issues.
Dirty Halo is my new band name.
 
Those caps always seem to slip off or make a dirty halo on the joycon shell. I’m becoming hesitant now, because of the reported clicking. But maybe it’s worth it to not have drifting issues.
Maybe it is but after all of these clicking, gaps, etc, i will w8 and see if they can actually outlast og ones.

Now i have that gulikit standard joys and they have a bit of different rubber on them(more gripy) so maybe it is similar on hall ones?
 
So I have had mine installed for a couple of days now. Yes there is a slight gap on each joycon though barley visable. Also, they do click but is only noticeable when trying to listen for it and not noticeable at all when playing a game.

Functionally, I am very happy with them and like the stiffer spring joystick response but for the cost they are too expensive. For the cost you would expect better build tolerances.

@Riben no they are not grippy like the other version. They are just like OEM in that regard.
 
So I have had mine installed for a couple of days now. Yes there is a slight gap on each joycon though barley visable. Also, they do click but is only noticeable when trying to listen for it and not noticeable at all when playing a game.

Functionally, I am very happy with them and like the stiffer spring joystick response but for the cost they are too expensive. For the cost you would expect better build tolerances.

@Riben no they are not grippy like the other version. They are just like OEM in that regard.
Yeah…me too. Guess I’m not as picky. As long as it doesn’t impact gameplay or look like ass…
 

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