Hi, so I have an old AGS-001 and the green power led is completely dead(the charging led works and the low battery led also works just fine) other than that the handheld works just fine. Can I replace it with another kind of led or do I have to hunt down a dead AGS-001 motherboard for a replacement led?
Hardware Where can I find a green power led replacement for a AGS-001?
- Thread starter mazingetter
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Are you sure it is dead (high resistance across it) and not a bad solder joint or something upstream or downstream from it? I rarely see such LEDs go pop (they are usually run at way too low of a current to do that) but rare is not impossible and we are many years on. Simple enough test though if you just shove a normal through hole LED across it and see if it glows, or use a multimeter to see if it is getting voltage (don't like measuring resistance of things in circuit, can desolder or lift a leg I guess, or if you have a reference example on another board...) or maybe the diode check of the multimeter to see if it glows when the meter is providing the voltage.
LEDs are usually fairly boring and basic. Some of the multicoloured ones can get harder, and they appeared in a few things around the time the GBA was new, but I don't think that is the case here (should just be a plain colour, for multicoloured they tend to have more than two legs). Have seen a few people shove random colours in there before as well (see some case mods). To that end it is probably more a token check to see it will handle the voltage (or adapting a voltage) and finding one in a suitable size and shape. Most electronics vendors will have thousands of the things in all shapes, sizes, colours and whatever else for you to pick from.
LEDs are usually fairly boring and basic. Some of the multicoloured ones can get harder, and they appeared in a few things around the time the GBA was new, but I don't think that is the case here (should just be a plain colour, for multicoloured they tend to have more than two legs). Have seen a few people shove random colours in there before as well (see some case mods). To that end it is probably more a token check to see it will handle the voltage (or adapting a voltage) and finding one in a suitable size and shape. Most electronics vendors will have thousands of the things in all shapes, sizes, colours and whatever else for you to pick from.
Thanks for your help! I have not really checked out if the LED is dead with a multimeter as I dont know how to do it and I was just thinking of sourcing another LED and take my AGS to a specialist for replacing it. I will check out if there is a tutorial for the multimeter and search about the voltage and size needed for a LED replacement in the case that my AGS LED is really dead.
I don't know what meter or your background in electronics but generally
Most cheaper ones will have three main holes for probes.
One saying GND or ground and traditionally the black lead goes in that.
One say VDC having an ohms/omega symbol and some other stuff. Red leads being what most put in there. 99% of the time most people will have it in this.
One saying 10A or something. This is used for higher current measuring (10A being rather a lot of current for most things people play with). Not all will but the traditional cheap meter styles do.
You measure voltage across two points.
You measure resistance across two points.
Most other things you measure across two points, including diode check and continuity. Continuity is the thing you might have seen in videos where someone probes things and a small sound is heard. It works by putting a voltage out of one probe and if the other detects it (that is to say there is continuity between them) then sounding the speaker.
You measure current but having it in series with the device being measured.
Most settings will be higher range variations of those (if you are measuring less than 10 volts you might like some additional precision compared to mains voltage) or AC voltage maybe. Depending upon the model there might be an around 6 pin hole somewhere on the body of the meter with P N P on it, this is for testing transistors but we can skip that for now.
The diode check (which will have a diode symbol on it, and might be the same option as the continuity check) will also provide some power which can determine the direction of the diode (in case you were unaware one of the main jobs of most diodes is to only allow current to flow one way, light emitting diodes also happen to generate light while they are allowing some current to flow) and also in the case of LEDs give it at least a faint glow to see if it is still functioning. If you don't know which way around it is then swap the probes around on the circuit as that will soon tell you.
The reason in circuit measurements of resistance is not the best is you are not only measuring the device you want but also the rest of the circuit as well (if you want to go back to probably high school terms then see Kirchoff's current law and Thevenin equivalent circuits). By removing it you remove the problem, by lifting one leg of the two leg device you also effectively take it out of circuit (the electrons have to flow after all for it all to work) and that can be easier.
You can also measure what voltage the GBA delivers to the LED (even if is is not working you should still get something, if you don't then presumably something else) and that will help you pick a replacement (make sure the voltage the GBA gets is above the one needed to light and below the maximum it will take (you can drop voltage but let's skip that one unless you are desperate for a colour that does not play nice with what the GBA gives). Size is quite literally what you measure with a ruler (or better yet some callipers if you have those).
Most cheaper ones will have three main holes for probes.
One saying GND or ground and traditionally the black lead goes in that.
One say VDC having an ohms/omega symbol and some other stuff. Red leads being what most put in there. 99% of the time most people will have it in this.
One saying 10A or something. This is used for higher current measuring (10A being rather a lot of current for most things people play with). Not all will but the traditional cheap meter styles do.
You measure voltage across two points.
You measure resistance across two points.
Most other things you measure across two points, including diode check and continuity. Continuity is the thing you might have seen in videos where someone probes things and a small sound is heard. It works by putting a voltage out of one probe and if the other detects it (that is to say there is continuity between them) then sounding the speaker.
You measure current but having it in series with the device being measured.
Most settings will be higher range variations of those (if you are measuring less than 10 volts you might like some additional precision compared to mains voltage) or AC voltage maybe. Depending upon the model there might be an around 6 pin hole somewhere on the body of the meter with P N P on it, this is for testing transistors but we can skip that for now.
The diode check (which will have a diode symbol on it, and might be the same option as the continuity check) will also provide some power which can determine the direction of the diode (in case you were unaware one of the main jobs of most diodes is to only allow current to flow one way, light emitting diodes also happen to generate light while they are allowing some current to flow) and also in the case of LEDs give it at least a faint glow to see if it is still functioning. If you don't know which way around it is then swap the probes around on the circuit as that will soon tell you.
The reason in circuit measurements of resistance is not the best is you are not only measuring the device you want but also the rest of the circuit as well (if you want to go back to probably high school terms then see Kirchoff's current law and Thevenin equivalent circuits). By removing it you remove the problem, by lifting one leg of the two leg device you also effectively take it out of circuit (the electrons have to flow after all for it all to work) and that can be easier.
You can also measure what voltage the GBA delivers to the LED (even if is is not working you should still get something, if you don't then presumably something else) and that will help you pick a replacement (make sure the voltage the GBA gets is above the one needed to light and below the maximum it will take (you can drop voltage but let's skip that one unless you are desperate for a colour that does not play nice with what the GBA gives). Size is quite literally what you measure with a ruler (or better yet some callipers if you have those).
Thank you so much for the Info! Thanks to that I realized that the LED was gone, and thanks to a little research on the topic I found that a 0603 SMD single color LED was a suitable replacement so I sourced a blue one(green was not available) and took it to a specialist for the replacement. It worked out just fine and the new blue LED looks cool [emoji41]. Now waiting for my IPS screen replacement [emoji16]
Thanks for the help!
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