Hacking What's the best way to short Pin10 with household items?

diyrt

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All I did was use a copper wire and connected the pin 10 to the metal fins on the top and so far it has work 2 out of 3 times

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RHOPKINS13

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spooky. I think I'll just keep playing Hollow Knight while I wait for Atmosphère. I really just want to play emulators on my Switch, it seriously seems like it's gonna be the best emulation machine of all time. I don't give two shits about piracy or anything, the homebrew is legit what I'm excited for, so I'll hold off until there's a more reliable CFW.

You might as well go ahead with AutoRCM and Hekate. They've fixed the sleep bug, I play emulators all the time on mine with little to no problems. Hekate is basically launching an unfinished version of Atmosphere, but it works great for me, and a lot of other people here. Especially if you don't care about piracy.

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I'm probably going to give up on this for now, but it seems like stripping the ends of an RJ45 wire, screwing an end to the middle screw, and manually shorting pin10 would be the simplest temp solution so far.

Do that, then install AutoRCM. Won't have to ever worry about manually shorting pin 10 again.
 

SecureBoot

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Haha, this is terrible but I've been shoving a nail file into my switch. I'm gonna need a replacement rail sooner than later but it's like $15 for a pair. I needed a replacement before I started hacking anyway, the joycons slide out too easily.
 

fotuwe

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Today I used aluminium foil mounted to the right joycon (touching pin 9+10) - took me 2 min to prepare the stripe
 

sorabora

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So the drama about damaging your system with Auto-RCM is overstated and - if you're careful not to let the system lose all battery - it's much better than aluminum foil?
 

RHOPKINS13

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So the drama about damaging your system with Auto-RCM is overstated and - if you're careful not to let the system lose all battery - it's much better than aluminum foil?
Correct. If you don't let the battery run completely dead, you should be fine. And even if you do, worst case you have to open up the Switch and unplug the battery and plug it back in. I had to do it once, I dreaded it beforehand but it really wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

It's much better than the aluminum foil, you no longer have to worry about jamming metal objects into your joycon rail or shorting anything that shouldn't be shorted while holding VOL UP and pressing power. I just tap the power button, and my switch is on in RCM mode (screen is blank, you can't even tell that it's on). Then send the payload over USB, and you're good to go.
 
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sorabora

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Correct. If you don't let the battery run completely dead, you should be fine. And even if you do, worst case you have to open up the Switch and unplug the battery and plug it back in. I had to do it once, I dreaded it beforehand but it really wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

It's much better than the aluminum foil, you no longer have to worry about jamming metal objects into your joycon rail or shorting anything that shouldn't be shorted while holding VOL UP and pressing power. I just tap the power button, and my switch is on in RCM mode (screen is blank, you can't even tell that it's on). Then send the payload over USB, and you're good to go.

I just tried Auto-RCM (via SX OS) after using foil for the past day. When using foil, the right joycon is non-functional. Is that the case with Auto-RCM?

Thanks for your help, btw.
 

RHOPKINS13

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I just tried Auto-RCM (via SX OS) after using foil for the past day. When using foil, the right joycon is non-functional. Is that the case with Auto-RCM?
Once Auto-RCM is installed, there's no need for foil or shorting any pins. So your right joycon should be fully functional.

If not, you probably broke something when you were using the foil.
 
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But you have to be E X T R E M E L Y careful the Tin foil goes over the correct pins, if you short the wrong ones it's gg.
not really, the peice just has to be
A:thin enough
B: pay attention to what side your putting the tinfoil on.
As long as you pay attention to that, your fine. The only real issue is when your piece of tinfoil is too wide. but the shorter it is in width, the better. And then you just wedge it to the far left side. (pin10)

You might as well go ahead with AutoRCM and Hekate. They've fixed the sleep bug, I play emulators all the time on mine with little to no problems. Hekate is basically launching an unfinished version of Atmosphere, but it works great for me, and a lot of other people here. Especially if you don't care about piracy.



Do that, then install AutoRCM. Won't have to ever worry about manually shorting pin 10 again.
However there is problems with autorcm, as it does screw with the bct, that also means the switch won't charge correctly, and not only that, but it also screws up the battery indicator, as it likely cannot update it, giving a fake %
Not saying it won't charge at all, but it will charge in unintended ways, won't' do harm necessarily, but it is a inconvenience
 
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RHOPKINS13

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However there is problems with autorcm, as it does screw with the bct, that also means the switch won't charge correctly, and not only that, but it also screws up the battery indicator, as it likely cannot update it, giving a fake %
Not saying it won't charge at all, but it will charge in unintended ways, won't' do harm necessarily, but it is a inconvenience

Nonsense, I've been using autorcm ever since Hekate's sleep bug was fixed without a problem. Granted, that was only 18 days ago, but it works fine. As long as you've booted into Horizon OS (either stock or CFW) charging works fine and as intended.

The only time you'd have a "de-sync" problem is if you left it running in RCM without booting Horizon for a long time, or in Linux or some other payload. And in most cases that can be fixed just by leaving it on the charger for a long period of time.

There is a minor inconvenience, but if you leave your Switch in sleep mode most of the time anyway instead of turning it off it's really not a big deal at all.
 
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Nonsense, I've been using autorcm ever since Hekate's sleep bug was fixed without a problem. Granted, that was only 18 days ago, but it works fine. As long as you've booted into Horizon OS (either stock or CFW) charging works fine and as intended.

The only time you'd have a "de-sync" problem is if you left it running in RCM without booting Horizon for a long time, or in Linux or some other payload. And in most cases that can be fixed just by leaving it on the charger for a long period of time.

There is a minor inconvenience, but if you leave your Switch in sleep mode most of the time anyway instead of turning it off it's really not a big deal at all.
Sorry but not nonsense. Got to keep up with your research friend.
So, Switch charges and does not charges in RCM. xD

The results (battery was 89%):


The switch can charge normally the battery, if the BCT is intact!
In RCM AND in hekate menu.
*BCT is the boot configuration table that autoRCM corrupts.

Tests showed that it was charging with the same current, as in Horison OS.
The current it was drawing with 89% battery, was 800mA - 1000mA, using Switch wall adapter. On PC, it was the max the hub could give.


------------------------------------


The switch cannot charge normally with a corrupt BCT (AutoRCM).
In hekate, it shows similar behavior (read below).

Extra emphasis on the "normally".

With autoRCM, basically a corrupt BCT, the switch behaves differently.
There are 2 behaviors that I saw when connecting to the switch wall charger:
  • Common - It was draining 140-250mA.
  • Common (in hekate) - 200mA - 400mA
  • Rare (normally if you connect charger after powering off from HOS) - Drain of alternating 250mA and 1000mA, with surges of 2.5A.

------------------------------------

Summary - facts:
  1. Switch can charge completely normally in RCM or Hekate with a BCT intact
    • The percent % in Horizon OS, after a RCM charge, is not fake.
  2. Switch does not charge normally with AutoRCM, a.k.a corrupt BCT.
    1. Either it charges very slowly or sometimes with a broken slow/fast/slow/fast charge pattern:
    2. Or this behavior is current taken from the USB controller or the BPMP (Nvidia's Boot and Power management processor)
    • In AutoRCM, the Charge IC probably can't update the battery calibration file and could make the percent fake.
I don't know for behavior .3 what really happens and what Switch does. This can be easily examined, by connecting a current multimeter between battery and switch and check the readings.
And this is from CTCaer, the very guy who creates the modded payloads for hekate
https://gbatemp.net/threads/permarcm-until-atmosphere.506730/page-4#post-8035760
 
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Draxzelex

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However there is problems with autorcm, as it does screw with the bct, that also means the switch won't charge correctly, and not only that, but it also screws up the battery indicator, as it likely cannot update it, giving a fake %
Not saying it won't charge at all, but it will charge in unintended ways, won't' do harm necessarily, but it is a inconvenience
The charging problems only occur when you leave the Switch in RCM. Indeed, the charge rate is diminished when the BCT is corrupted, but that is only when the Switch is still in RCM. It still charges fine in Horizon or sleep mode.
 
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The charging problems only occur when you leave the Switch in RCM. Indeed, the charge rate is diminished when the BCT is corrupted, but that is only when the Switch is still in RCM. It still charges fine in Horizon or sleep mode.
--snipped--
 

CTCaer

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Btw, I've spent more than 600 hours in RCM (no AutoRCM though) and I never had any problem. (This number may actually be way bigger, because I forget my device in RCM charging).

To be true I don't really want to learn if AutoRCM can create this problem, because it's a pain in the ass to fix the battery de-sync.
(Because, privately I reconfigured, semi-reset, set battery removed/inserted bits, with many testers, but I always come to the same conclusion; the fix needs both a hw fuel gauge ic reset and horizon fuel gauge cache reset.)

Anyway, what's really happening with this, you'll learn with the new hekate version.
(I'll just only say that my console can easily reach 1.5A charging in RCM with no AutoRCM).
 
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