Switch USB-C

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bookedirl

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Hello,
I have a OG switch that had a bad usb-c charging port. My son dropped the game while plugged in and the usb-c port became loose. I opened it up and unsoldered what was left. Upon inspection it appears the leads on the motherboard were ripped off slightly and I'm unsure if solder will just complete the connections or if I'm SOL.

is this salvagable?

IMG_8695.jpeg
 
Well it is salvageable. You can make repairs with pads like that but it isn't easy.
I've seen repairs on Switch USB-C ports that looked a lot worse on Youtube.

I would honestly check up a repair shop to do it for you.
 
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Hello,
I have a OG switch that had a bad usb-c charging port. My son dropped the game while plugged in and the usb-c port became loose. I opened it up and unsoldered what was left. Upon inspection it appears the leads on the motherboard were ripped off slightly and I'm unsure if solder will just complete the connections or if I'm SOL.

is this salvagable?

View attachment 384006
This is very much salvageable. It would require a bit of work to fix those broke pads, but it is 100% fixable. You would basically need to scrape off a bit of the solder mask on the board to expose the copper and run a short wire.
 
This is very much salvageable. It would require a bit of work to fix those broke pads, but it is 100% fixable. You would basically need to scrape off a bit of the solder mask on the board to expose the copper and run a short wire.
To add
You need to do a "Drop" method on a Switch. Since you can solder the pads that will be under the port. Only the backline that is damaged in this case.
 
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This is very much salvageable. It would require a bit of work to fix those broke pads, but it is 100% fixable. You would basically need to scrape off a bit of the solder mask on the board to expose the copper and run a short wire.
Copper wire, so like fine wire that you can easily salvage from a dead speaker.
 
Copper wire, so like fine wire that you can easily salvage from a dead speaker.
Yes exactly. Just make sure to only remove the coating from the ends. Don't want to have to worry about any bridging of connections. That could very easily fry the system seeing that this is the charge port.
 
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Yes exactly. Just make sure to only remove the coating from the ends. Don't want to have to worry about any bridging of connections. That could very easily fry the system seeing that this is the charge port.
A set of wire strippers or a soldering iron with a fine tip at a high temperature can easily remove the copper insulation.
 
Alright, thanks for the replies, I think this may be out of my scope even though I do have a "blow station" that I've used for other soldering work. I will look into a repair shop that might specialize in this stuff. Are there any reputable ones online or should I source locally?
 
Alright, thanks for the replies, I think this may be out of my scope even though I do have a "blow station" that I've used for other soldering work. I will look into a repair shop that might specialize in this stuff. Are there any reputable ones online or should I source locally?
Truthfully this fix isnt that advanced. As long as the repair shop is decently reputable it should be fine.
 
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Alright, thanks for the replies, I think this may be out of my scope even though I do have a "blow station" that I've used for other soldering work. I will look into a repair shop that might specialize in this stuff. Are there any reputable ones online or should I source locally?
You could ship it to https://northridgefix.com/
 
1st roll pins are no brainer. And seems missing pads still get the node/via over the top. just tiny bit jumper wire with proper seat new port and good to go.
 
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If you're interested in learning to solder and repair things like this, I would recommending finding a donor board or a device you no longer care about and practicing on it. This is how I ended up learning at my own pace, and finishing some cool projects to boot :)
 

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