Switch OLED with HWFLY Lite battery drain

lufeig

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So I killed my Switch OLED while attempting to install HWFLY Lite modchip.

I sent it to @mvmiranda, whose great expertise identified a short. After fixing it and replacing the M92T36 IC, the mod chip was installed and it's currently working.

But after a couple of days I noticed a strange behavior: the console never fully charges the joy cons, so the charging icons rapidly come and go. I managed "bypass" this fault by using an external charger. Anyway, the fault still exists. It just doesn't show up because the joy cons are fully charged.

And there is also a battery drain problem: it is draining even when the console is turned off, like 1% every couple of hours, even without joy cons attached. When in sleep mode it also drains abnormally: if I leave the console with 100% in the morning, at night it will be around 75% with airplane mode on and joy cons detached.

I double checked the soldering points, there are no shorts detected.

I cleaned the motherboard with IPA.

Do you have any clues where this fault could come from?

could someone kindly shed the light of knowledge on the darkness of my ignorance? ;)
 
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lufeig

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Check Piusb chip and its filters. Joycon not charging could be the ribbon cables or rails are damaged.
Rails and ribbon cables are ok too.

The joy cons actually charge, but at some point the console struggles to continue charging, so the charging starts and stops very rapidly, making the charging icons to appear and disappear very quickly.
 

MicroRepairRX

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Where is the 3.3v wire connected to? On the capacitor on the front of the board next to the other same size cap? Or the cap to the right of the emmc if the Dat0 adapter was inserted from the top down.

Noticed that the front capacitor always outputs 3.3v when the battery is plugged in, but the cap near the emmc is has 0 voltage readings when just the battery is connected.

Just a thought, this might not be the case. Installed a sx lite clone on an oled and was flashing instant red when a battery is connected and wouldn't turn on. Moved the 3.3v wire to the cap next to the emmc and everything worked; booted to Hekate.
 
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rip-it-up

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ive no idea about if the chip is causing drain.

ive had a switch battery drain when off, (water damaged) i fixed it reflowing cpu
another switch lite, the fan spins at full speed when off, but works perfectly in sleep and standby. ( need to relook at this)

with the joycon doing that, ive only ever experinced that issue when the battery is iffy in the joycon or the rail isnt making a good enough contact.

id personally get my multimeter out, and with the battery connected probe around and in dc mode and see whats getting voltage when off

like that fan at full speed on my switch lite gets 4,6v when off, but it shouldn't.

apologies, if that dosent make much sense, im hungover and feel like death.
 
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doom95

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Where is the 3.3v wire connected to? On the capacitor on the front of the board next to the other same size cap? Or the cap to the right of the emmc if the Dat0 adapter was inserted from the top down.

Noticed that the front capacitor always outputs 3.3v when the battery is plugged in, but the cap near the emmc is has 0 voltage readings when just the battery is connected.

Just a thought, this might not be the case. Installed a sx lite clone on an oled and was flashing instant red when a battery is connected and wouldn't turn on. Moved the 3.3v wire to the cap next to the emmc and everything worked; booted to Hekate.
The 3v3 originates from the MAX77801EWP+ right next to the caps on the front. These are not powered when the device is not powered on. If they are, replace the MAX77801EWP+.
There is continuity between these caps and the 3v3 point near eMMC so they will always read the same, unless the board is physically damaged.
 
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MicroRepairRX

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If the caps are connected then do you have any theories as to why in my case the sx lite clone doesn't work when connected to the 3.3v cap near the MAX chip and does work when connected to the cap near the eMMC?

My only guess is that these clone chips are sensitive to the length/thickness of the jumper wire being used and quality of the solder joint. So results are not always consistent.
 

MicroRepairRX

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Are you using the correct caps? There's 2 sets relatively nearby. Use the bigger ones.
I was following the switch oled diagram from sthetix github for the lite chip where it shows the 3.3 v line on the two caps to the right of the audo ic (crab logo). But then I rewatched ModzvillUSA's install for the 3.3v and it's the two caps above the ones in the sthetix diagram, which is correct b/c his install boots fine.

Now everything makes sense.
 

doom95

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These are correct
 

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