Hello guys, this is my first post here! I just got a MIG Switch card out of curiosity and I was tinkering with it. For those who don't know, it's used by placing XCI dumps as well as other game specific bin files in the sd card of the MIG Switch, and are obtained from the original cartridge by using an app like nxdumptool. Two of these bin files are mandatory to get the game to boot: Initial Data.bin and Certificate.bin. They stay the same for every cartridge of a specific game. Now, if you want to use an XCI dump from a shady website it's impossible to get it to work without those files. By using the Certificate.bin from another game it has no problem, but this does not count for the Initial Data.bin. So I looked for a way to obtain this Initial Data from an XCI file and read a bit of the XCI file documentation from switchbrew dot org. Here's what I understood so far: The Switch checks if the cartridge is valid by doing a challenge–response authentication on the Initial Data. The Package ID is contained both on the XCI and the Initial Data, on positions 0x110 and 0x0 respectively. The Initial Data hash is on the XCI at position 0x160. It is calculated by doing a SHA-256 hash on the full Initial Data content. So I was wondering, is there a way to to construct a functional Initial Data file starting from an XCI dump? I also tried a reverse approach by editing the Package ID in the Initial Data from another game, generating the Initial Data hash and putting it in the XCI file but is not enough to get the Switch believe it's a real game. Sorry if this may seem stupid but let me know what you think.

DBI language error

kevinxyz · 2024-04-01T01:04:31+00:00

My dbi language change every time i open it. How to change it to default eng?

Switch Lite - mod gone bad | GBAtemp.net - The Independent Video Game Community

cilione

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Nov 24, 2023

So, this Lite popped up on Facebook market.
Curious as I am, I contacted the owner and offered him a "no fix, no fee" service.

An attempt has been made to modify the device with RP2040-Lite(?) using the supplied flexcable.
The soldering of the flexcable was subpar + I got a short between B (RST) and 3.3V (IIRC).

I´ve removed the flexcable and cleaned up all the soldering, the only cable remaining is the APU-flex.
I deem it OK, reading about 0~/14 ohm on the caps (between ground and connection on flexcable) + soldering looks decent under the microscope.

Symptoms: No boot, home-button lights up (according to the owner).
Owner removed M92T36 after measuring around M92~ for shorts.
I get a 1.5 ohm reading on one of the caps with the IC removed. The owner did also (on the same cap).
The larger caps behind the APU measure from 11 ohms and upwards.

The cap showing 1.5 ohm-reading, isn't this the infamous "APU-cap"?
Should 1.5 ohms be considered a dead short to ground (aka. APU is dead)?

Edit: Forgot to mention that the owner soldered the cables with the battery plugged in.

Last edited by cilione, Nov 25, 2023

Switch Lite - mod gone bad

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