Switch 2 Pro Controller D-pad

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The Real Jdbye

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Does anybody own or have used the Switch 2 Pro Controller? How does the D-pad compare to the original?

I love the Switch Pro Controller, but the one thing that always dragged it down is the D-pad. If they have improved it, that would be the one thing that could convince me to pay up for the overpriced upgrade.
 
This video pretty much settles it, I timestamped it to where he tests the Switch 2 Pro Controller's D-Pad:



I has all the issues the 1st Pro Controller had. Hard pass for me and if I ever buy one of those types of controller, it will be from 8bitdo. Such a shame that Nintendo didn't bother to fix this, now I'm really running out of reasons to buy anything related to the Switch 2.

Edit: the first comment says it may be luck of the draw whether you get one with a good D-Pad or not, so it's exactly like the first Pro Controller. I have one right here with a great D-Pad, but 4 others I have tried (and returned/sold) had the issues shown in this video. I will not be trying my luck again.

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Last edited by XenoFredo,
The main issue with the ProCon2 dpad is that it is so incredibly sensitive. There is barely any resistance at all, which is why it is so easy to input perpendicular directions when you don't intend to. The rubber domes just need to be stiffer.

Unfortunately taking this controller apart is a headache and a half. While i do like that you could in theory easily access the top pcb for any modifications to the dpad thanks to the controller opening up through the top, the faceplate just had to be glued shut, and not just a little bit. There's adhesive around the entire circumference and every button hole. I would've loved to try a tape mod but i can't even get the faceplate off. Why do manufacturers keep hiding screws and glueing things...
 
The Pro Controller 2's dpad is better than the original launch controllers. With my launch controller, I could hit L/R and it would register U/D. With my ProCon2, I might sometimes hit U when hitting R, but the dpad "rocks" to U rather than having a mis-input.

Also, taking this controller apart is actually REALLY easy. The faceplate is held on by light clips and adhesive tape. Just get a credit card and wedge it between the L/R shoulder buttons and the faceplate pops off. Remove the front plate with a few screws (and prying some plastic wedges that are bolted down. You can now swap out the dpad.

I may 3D print a different dpad or turn my dpad into 4 buttons.
 

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