Please help with troubleshooting bad Picofly install

[Nindando]

This is my 2nd attempt at installing a picofly chip on a switch lite.
Nothing happens when I press power with chip plugged in.
When I unplug chip, console boots regularly.

All readings on multi meter seem good

Chip is flashed
I have tried two chips

 

[Nephiel]

Looking at the pictures, here's what I'd check:

• Make sure the back of the modchip is well insulated (put some tape if it isn't).
• Make sure that the modchip is really flashed. If it is, it should blink the LED at least once on power on. If the modchip came with an USB port adapter on a flex cable, use that to power the modchip from USB (while unplugged from the console) and see if it blinks.
  • If the LED blinks when you power the modchip, it's most likely flashed (who knows what version, but probably fine).
  • If it blinks (so you know it's flashed) but doesn't blink at all when installed on the console, the modchip might not be getting power. If so, next I'd look at 3.3V and ground.
• Now, those solder joints don't look too good...
  • The anchor points on the flex near 3.3V didn't even wet the points on the board, and if the 3.3V joint is anything like those, it might not work reliably. So I'd touch up the solder a bit. At least, the 3.3V and ground points.
• Then, with the chip installed and the battery unplugged, use the multimeter to check for continuity between the points on the chip and the corresponding points on the board. Finally, do the same to check for shorts between different points.

Also, these probably have nothing to do with that problem, but:

• Check the square black IC right next to SP1, can't tell from the picture if it's damaged or just dirty - hopefully the latter, if the console works normally with the chip unplugged.
• Both anchor points near SP1 and SP2 have way too much solder - there's no way the shield will fit correctly with those blobs in the way.

Hope this helps. Good luck

 

[Nindando]

Looking at the pictures, here's what I'd check:

• Make sure the back of the modchip is well insulated (put some tape if it isn't).
• Make sure that the modchip is really flashed. If it is, it should blink the LED at least once on power on. If the modchip came with an USB port adapter on a flex cable, use that to power the modchip from USB (while unplugged from the console) and see if it blinks.
  • If the LED blinks when you power the modchip, it's most likely flashed (who knows what version, but probably fine).
  • If it blinks (so you know it's flashed) but doesn't blink at all when installed on the console, the modchip might not be getting power. If so, next I'd look at 3.3V and ground.
• Now, those solder joints don't look too good...
  • The anchor points on the flex near 3.3V didn't even wet the points on the board, and if the 3.3V joint is anything like those, it might not work reliably. So I'd touch up the solder a bit. At least, the 3.3V and ground points.
• Then, with the chip installed and the battery unplugged, use the multimeter to check for continuity between the points on the chip and the corresponding points on the board. Finally, do the same to check for shorts between different points.

Also, these probably have nothing to do with that problem, but:

• Check the square black IC right next to SP1, can't tell from the picture if it's damaged or just dirty - hopefully the latter, if the console works normally with the chip unplugged.
• Both anchor points near SP1 and SP2 have way too much solder - there's no way the shield will fit correctly with those blobs in the way.

Hope this helps. Good luck

Thank you this is great! I have a lot to check when I get home tonight which is what I was hoping for. One questions so far though, on the 3.3v, I’m only connecting it to the close end of this capacitor right?

 

[Nephiel]

One questions so far though, on the 3.3v, I’m only connecting it to the close end of this capacitor right?

Yes, in that picture the 3.3V point is on the rightmost side of that capacitor. The other two points on the flex nearby are just anchors.

 

[realtimesave]

I'm about to do another Switch Lite myself but wondering if I should use the old style flex cable or the new style one you're using. I'll have to wait for it to come in the mail. Wish me luck and I'll be back in case possibly I find anything I can help with.

 

[Nindando]

I'm about to do another Switch Lite myself but wondering if I should use the old style flex cable or the new style one you're using. I'll have to wait for it to come in the mail. Wish me luck and I'll be back in case possibly I find anything I can help with.

I think it’s worth the wait. Everything really did line up perfectly. My problems seem to be with my limited experience and skill, not the flex cables.
I know there were some bad batches of these orange ones so before you start I’d just double check that the 3.3v and b lines are feeding the right part of the chip.

Please report back if you run into anything you think might be helpful!

 

[realtimesave]

I think it’s worth the wait. Everything really did line up perfectly. My problems seem to be with my limited experience and skill, not the flex cables.
I know there were some bad batches of these orange ones so before you start I’d just double check that the 3.3v and b lines are feeding the right part of the chip.

Please report back if you run into anything you think might be helpful!

will do. I'm kinda wanting to just use the old style flex. I have two of those. I may crack it open soon and attempt it. worst thing that can happen is I'll decide to wait for the new chips with the new style flex.

Anyways if I was in your situation, I probably would go back over the solder points on that new style flex cable. That's the part that's always tricky for me :|

Post automatically merged: Oct 9, 2025

Take a look at this the part where he is soldering in the new style flex. that might help you a little bit.

 

[Nindando]

Looking at the pictures, here's what I'd check:

• Make sure the back of the modchip is well insulated (put some tape if it isn't).
• Make sure that the modchip is really flashed. If it is, it should blink the LED at least once on power on. If the modchip came with an USB port adapter on a flex cable, use that to power the modchip from USB (while unplugged from the console) and see if it blinks.
  • If the LED blinks when you power the modchip, it's most likely flashed (who knows what version, but probably fine).
  • If it blinks (so you know it's flashed) but doesn't blink at all when installed on the console, the modchip might not be getting power. If so, next I'd look at 3.3V and ground.
• Now, those solder joints don't look too good...
  • The anchor points on the flex near 3.3V didn't even wet the points on the board, and if the 3.3V joint is anything like those, it might not work reliably. So I'd touch up the solder a bit. At least, the 3.3V and ground points.
• Then, with the chip installed and the battery unplugged, use the multimeter to check for continuity between the points on the chip and the corresponding points on the board. Finally, do the same to check for shorts between different points.

Also, these probably have nothing to do with that problem, but:

• Check the square black IC right next to SP1, can't tell from the picture if it's damaged or just dirty - hopefully the latter, if the console works normally with the chip unplugged.
• Both anchor points near SP1 and SP2 have way too much solder - there's no way the shield will fit correctly with those blobs in the way.

Hope this helps. Good luck

I got home and checked the chip with power, it did one blue flash then three green flashes which makes me think it’s flashed

I hit the 3.3v again with solder

I checked and got continuity from the C, A, D, B, 3.3v and ground points on the flex cable to the corresponding points on the chip

I cleaned up the anchor points on the cpu flex cable

Still same result. Nothing when the chip is plugged in and booting up fine with the chip unplugged. I’ve tried 2 chips so far

Do you have any other ideas what could be going on?

Someone in another forum recommended I ditch the orange flex and resolver using wires

 

[Nephiel]

Still same result. Nothing when the chip is plugged in and booting up fine with the chip unplugged. I’ve tried 2 chips so far

Do you have any other ideas what could be going on?

If nothing boots and the LED doesn't even blink, there is probably some short somewhere.
Since it boots normally when the modchip is unplugged and the flex still in place, the flex itself should be fine. But then again, it's unlikely to be the modchips when both boot while unplugged, yet do nothing when installed.
Maybe the short is on (or around) the flat connectors of the flex?

Someone in another forum recommended I ditch the orange flex and resolver using wires

Yeah, other than the APU flex with the mosfets, I too prefer wiring by hand. (Then again, I also prefer using general-purpose RP2040-Tiny boards from Waveshare, because with those you always know what you get, unlike no-brand Picofly clones).
Wires take longer to install, but let you check each wire individually, and you can use a thicker gauge for power and ground (in case it draws more current).

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

This picture proves you have no connection between 3.3v and GND but it doesn't tell whether you have the 3.3V on your Picofly board.
Does the Picofly light up when you power on the Switch?

Did that flex cable come with the kit?

 

[Nindando]

This picture proves you have no connection between 3.3v and GND but it doesn't tell whether you have the 3.3V on your Picofly board.
Does the Picofly light up when you power on the Switch?



View attachment 532339

Did that flex cable come with the kit?

No the picofly doesn’t light up when I power up the switch and yes that is the flex cable that came with the switch

Post automatically merged: Oct 9, 2025

If nothing boots and the LED doesn't even blink, there is probably some short somewhere.
Since it boots normally when the modchip is unplugged and the flex still in place, the flex itself should be fine. But then again, it's unlikely to be the modchips when both boot while unplugged, yet do nothing when installed.
Maybe the short is on (or around) the flat connectors of the flex?

Yeah, other than the APU flex with the mosfets, I too prefer wiring by hand. (Then again, I also prefer using general-purpose RP2040-Tiny boards from Waveshare, because with those you always know what you get, unlike no-brand Picofly clones).
Wires take longer to install, but let you check each wire individually, and you can use a thicker gauge for power and ground (in case it draws more current).

Could I add a wire to this set up? Keep everything as it is but then just attach a wire to any other 3.3v spot on the board? Or try to use this same capacitor I’m trying to get the 3.3v from now?

Post automatically merged: Oct 9, 2025

If nothing boots and the LED doesn't even blink, there is probably some short somewhere.
Since it boots normally when the modchip is unplugged and the flex still in place, the flex itself should be fine. But then again, it's unlikely to be the modchips when both boot while unplugged, yet do nothing when installed.
Maybe the short is on (or around) the flat connectors of the flex?

Yeah, other than the APU flex with the mosfets, I too prefer wiring by hand. (Then again, I also prefer using general-purpose RP2040-Tiny boards from Waveshare, because with those you always know what you get, unlike no-brand Picofly clones).
Wires take longer to install, but let you check each wire individually, and you can use a thicker gauge for power and ground (in case it draws more current).

Awesome thank you. A board like this? How do you connect the sp caps? Is 36 a thick enough gauge for the 3.3 and ground? And you flash the chip the same way as the picofly?

Also, @Nephiel if you read this. I think I found the short. I plugged the battery in and put the multi on my solder that’s supposed to be jointed to that 3.3v cap and it’s giving no reading.

So Im either going to try at solder it again OR just run a wire to another 3.3v pad. Do you have a suggestion from those two options?

 

[Nephiel]

Here's a quick thing to try: what happens if you try booting with the orange flex plugged in, but the APU flex (SP1-SP2) unplugged from the modchip? If the LED blinks then, you know the issue must be related to the APU flex.

I think I found the short. I plugged the battery in and put the multi on my solder that’s supposed to be jointed to that 3.3v cap and it’s giving no reading.

So Im either going to try at solder it again OR just run a wire to another 3.3v pad. Do you have a suggestion from those two options?

I am not really sure, but those points probably only have 3.3V when the console is turned on, not just a plugged battery.

Could I add a wire to this set up? Keep everything as it is but then just attach a wire to any other 3.3v spot on the board?

You could, it might be worth a try if the APU flex doesn't seem to be the problem. The Picofly guide recommends this spot for 3.3V on Lites. I'd desolder the flex from the capacitor (careful not to remove the capacitor), protect that tip of the flex with some tape, and then run a wire from this pad to the modchip instead.

If that also fails, next thing I would try is removing the orange flex completely, and running wire instead.

A board like this?

Yes, that's a RP2040-Zero. It works, but the USB port and the buttons may need to be removed to fit it inside the console. The RP2040-Tiny is a bit smaller, and the port and buttons come on a separate board, so it's more convenient for this.

However (unless you intend to mod more consoles soon, anyway) there's little sense in spending more money on modchips, when you could manage to get the ones you already have to work just as well.

How do you connect the sp caps?

By using an APU flex, or loose MOSFETs and wires, and then wiring the MOSFET gates to the chip.

Is 36 a thick enough gauge for the 3.3 and ground?

Should be, anything from 30 to 40 should work.

And you flash the chip the same way as the picofly?

Exactly the same.

Really, pretty much all these questions have answers in the Picofly guide, I highly recommend checking it out, if you haven't seen it yet.

 

[Nindando]

booting with the orange flex plugged in, but the APU flex (SP1-SP2) unplugged

This is a good idea. I tried it and there was no blinking light which means it’s not getting 3.3v

but those points probably only have 3.3V when the console is turned on, not just a plugged battery

Sorry I meant to say I turned it on too and no reading through my solder here but I did get one of 3.3 from the square pads by the right of the chip that the guide showed to try


Then, I tried something that might have been dumb. I only plugged the APU flex into the chip and clipped a wire to the 3.3v pad on the chip and held the other end to to 3.3v pad the guide showed to wire to then I plugged in the battery and turned the switch on but still no flashing on the chip or switch turning on. Does this tell me anything or is that too unreliable a test to just be pressing the wire onto the pad?

 

[Nephiel]

This is a good idea. I tried it and there was no blinking light which means it’s not getting 3.3v

But did the console turn on? If it doesn't power on while the modchip is plugged, then it won't provide 3.3V at those points. So the question would become: why? What could be happening, when the modchip is connected to either (or both) flex, to prevent the console from powering on?

 

[Nindando]

But did the console turn on? If it doesn't power on while the modchip is plugged, then it won't provide 3.3V at those points. So the question would become: why? What could be happening, when the modchip is connected to either (or both) flex, to prevent the console from powering on?

That’s a good point. Yeah it doesn’t turn on with the orange flex cable plugged in and sometimes it turns on with the apu flex plugged in. I’m not sure why. I think I’ll have to remove the orange flex cable. Thank you for all your help! I was totally stuck a few days ago!

 

[realtimesave]

Hello I just installed it with the old style cable. My other picofly lite chips are still coming in the mail and have already passed thru customs.

So here's what happened to me:

I originally didn't have the chip flashed, so make sure you flash it or it will act like it doesn't work at all
I ruined the first flex cable I put in so I had to install a brand new one

Then everything worked suddenly. I didn't do the greatest job soldering that little flex in but I guess I did good enough of a job for everything to communicate. I know my GND and +3.3V are good and B but the rest man, I can never figure out how I even get those working in the first place. All 3 of my lites that I modded have been luck, this being the worst of the 3.

 

[vador]

This is my 2nd attempt at installing a picofly chip on a switch lite.
Nothing happens when I press power with chip plugged in.
When I unplug chip, console boots regularly.

All readings on multi meter seem good

Chip is flashed
I have tried two chips

This happened to me as well—just today. I installed a brand-new modchip and flex adapters, but after installation the modchip showed no LEDs at all and the console would not boot when the modchip was connected to the flex cables. Once I removed the modchip, the console booted normally into original firmware.


I checked all the solder points, and the 3.3 V line had no continuity, even though the solder joint itself looked good. I then tried running a jumper wire directly from the same 3.3 V solder point to the modchip (with the flex cable still soldered to the 3.3 V point). This resulted in three short yellows LEDs on the modchip, indicating signs of life but "*** No eMMC CMD1 responce (bad eMMC?)" which I think that couldn't be true. So not only was there no continuity, but the trace also seemed to be partially shorted.

I inspected the area under a microscope and couldn’t see any visible damage to the trace. I also cross-checked the other points on the flex cable directly at the chip; those were not shorted and, in diode mode, showed the correct values.

My solution was to de-solder and cut the 3.3 V leg of the flex cable and run a jumper directly from the alternative 3.3 V point, as mentioned in the Picofly guide. After that, I immediately got solid blue and white LEDs, and the console booted to the “No SD card” screen.

Since the flex cable was brand new, I suspect either a bad batch or poor manufacturing quality. I can post high-resolution photos if anyone is interested. For now, I’ll share a few pictures of the finished installation.

 

[CMDreamer]

I modded a Lite some time ago, the kit included the old flex cable, that came with a D0 broken via, so I had to bridge it for it to properly work.

Soldering must be done in a very precise way or bridging pads/vias can happen.

As you mention no 3.3V are provided to the Pico, you should check that soldering job first.