Picofly AIO Thread

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Just to satisfy my curiosity, and for the benefit of others, can you list your instruments? Microscope, soldering Iron etc..
I dont know the brand or model of the microscope. I can just tell you its a decent to good one. Its a mechanical / optic one. Not those digital camera cheap stuff. As for soldering iron im using a BAKU BK 878l station. Dont know the brand of flux or soldering material but i can tell you its good quality. It's my friend's tools.
 
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I change hwfly to raspberry pi pico and when press power boton yellow light blinking only no boot... I think the mmc need reball.or some thing is short...
 
I change hwfly to raspberry pi pico and when press power boton yellow light blinking only no boot... I think the mmc need reball.or some thing is short...
So why do u think a reball would help?

Did u heat the emmc with a hot air station?

If not reball isn't gonna help?
What dat0 adapter did u use? Are u sure it was set properly?

No wenn u say it doesn't boot , does that mean it doesn't boot hekaute or not boot at all?
 
So why do u think a reball would help?

Did u heat the emmc with a hot air station?

If not reball isn't gonna help?
What dat0 adapter did u use? Are u sure it was set properly?

No wenn u say it doesn't boot , does that mean it doesn't boot hekaute or not boot at all?

I dont use heat ever..
It is not boot at all
The dat0 that come with hwfly oled
And the reading is 0.674 v
Befor the chip star boot cfw it was end with red the problem is if clk short with cpu shell it coz damge cant be fix coz the mistake forgot add soldring mask... Two time try boot CLk point touch cpu shell.. Or the adapter is short with dat1.im sure that chip is end to boot cfw hekate if that clk was cover with soldring mask.first dead oled!!!
 
I dont use heat ever..
It is not boot at all
The dat0 that come with hwfly oled
And the reading is 0.674 v
Befor the chip star boot cfw it was end with red the problem is if clk short with cpu shell it coz damge cant be fix coz the mistake forgot add soldring mask... Two time try boot CLk point touch cpu shell.. Or the adapter is short with dat1.im sure that chip is end to boot cfw hekate if that clk was cover with soldring mask.first dead oled!!!
Never thought CLK signal short to ground(by accident) would cause the board dead.
I fixed CLK touching the APU shield once, with HWFLY installed but that was luckily maybe.
 
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I dont use heat ever..
It is not boot at all
The dat0 that come with hwfly oled
And the reading is 0.674 v
Befor the chip star boot cfw it was end with red the problem is if clk short with cpu shell it coz damge cant be fix coz the mistake forgot add soldring mask... Two time try boot CLk point touch cpu shell.. Or the adapter is short with dat1.im sure that chip is end to boot cfw hekate if that clk was cover with soldring mask.first dead oled!!!
Then there is no reason for u to reball the emmc , I don't know why u as a installer would think that would help ever u should know better then that is u offer installs u should at least have a little technically knowledge...

I don't know what dat0 comes with the hwfly chip....I guess its gonna be a cheap one then if that's the cause u probably shorted dat0/1 and corrupted the emmc....

Or u really shorted something with ground I mean if I where u I would check the power ICS like maxs for shorts.
 
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I am getting a diode reading of 700 on my multimeter when set to diode mod on the DAT adapter. My understanding is that my reading should be between 0.5 and 0.8 so how am I getting 700?

I need someone to help me out before I solder the dat adapter.
 
I am getting a diode reading of 700 on my multimeter when set to diode mod on the DAT adapter. My understanding is that my reading should be between 0.5 and 0.8 so how am I getting 700?

I need someone to help me out before I solder the dat adapter.
beacause your meter shows diode reading digits in mV by default and most others in V. So 0.7V=700mV
 
Do I need to solder ground for instinct? Sthetix doesn't do it in his tutorial.
I don't know the schematic of instict.
The ground always mandatory to be connected.

It might took the ground from the cpu flex cable.
Use multimeter to check the continuity of the instinct gnd with the switch gnd to make sure of it.
 
I don't know the schematic of instict.
The ground always mandatory to be connected.

It might took the ground from the cpu flex cable.
Use multimeter to check the continuity of the instinct gnd with the switch gnd to make sure of it.

I read the comments on the Sthetix video and he says that the CPU cable provides ground.

Assuming all multimeter values are correct, does that mean the mod chip is going to work?
 
I read the comments on the Sthetix video and he says that the CPU cable provides ground.

Assuming all multimeter values are correct, does that mean the mod chip is going to work?
What do you means by 'multimeter values are correct'?

To make sure the gnd connected, just check the continuity (or resistance ohm) of switch gnd and instinct board gnd.
 
Then there is no reason for u to reball the emmc , I don't know why u as a installer would think that would help ever u should know better then that is u offer installs u should at least have a little technically knowledge...

I don't know what dat0 comes with the hwfly chip....I guess its gonna be a cheap one then if that's the cause u probably shorted dat0/1 and corrupted the emmc....

Or u really shorted something with ground I mean if I where u I would check the power ICS like maxs for shorts.

Not the cheap kind it looks like the original kind I have the link to the purchase site confirming that. I will check the power ic for a short.
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Never thought CLK signal short to ground(by accident) would cause the board dead.
I fixed CLK touching the APU shield once, with HWFLY installed but that was luckily maybe.
I have checked clk reading 0.502v from the same point and it is not connected to the ground, but I will check the points again.
 
What do you means by 'multimeter values are correct'?

To make sure the gnd connected, just check the continuity (or resistance ohm) of switch gnd and instinct board gnd.

If I check all points with multimeter and I get the correct values, does that mean the mod chip is installed properly?
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beacause your meter shows diode reading digits in mV by default and most others in V. So 0.7V=700mV
I am getting a reading of OL after soldering the anchor points on the dat adapter. I am no longer getting the 700 I was getting before soldering down the anchors.
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= is long pulse, * is short pulse:

=* D0 is not connected

Check all of the leds indicators here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10090767

To the rp2040 be able to detect the point, it has to have 300-800 in diode mode if i'm correct.

I have points A,C,D at 350.I read that they are supposed to be 500-800.

My 3.3 is at 700, but I refuse to believe I soldered all my points wrong. There is too much consistency in my numbers.

Would it be okay to turn on the switch if those 3 points are at 350?

I have a Hynix nand.
 
Last edited by Blakejansen,
Today my new resistors reached me. I changed them. Now i got this beautifull "no sd card" screen. I only booted heckate and it seems to work allright? I forgot the screws at my friend s place and cant really put it back together to fully test it. Hope i did a good job and i wont have problems in the future. Im quite proud of myself :) First try. Or second actually but YEAH :D
Special thanks to @jkyoho and @RedFawkes for helping out.
Post automatically merged:

I was looking at the hwfly chip rp2040. I see they dropped the price quite a lot i remember it was like 50$ now its 23$ or something like that. Looking back on it it mightve been worth it to just buy the hwfly and not have to deal with what i had to do with this picofly.
I saw a very interesting thing in the item description . They mentioned that picofly is unreliable and burns your chip (did not specify what chip). From what i searched about this topic i was not able to find anything about it. It would make sense if they lied about it in order to make their product look better , but they also present this problem over their old versions of hwfly chips. What is going on?
 

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Last edited by Crung,
Today my new resistors reached me. I changed them. Now i got this beautifull "no sd card" screen. I only booted heckate and it seems to work allright? I forgot the screws at my friend s place and cant really put it back together to fully test it. Hope i did a good job and i wont have problems in the future. Im quite proud of myself :) First try. Or second actually but YEAH :D
Special thanks to @jkyoho and @RedFawkes for helping out.
Post automatically merged:

I was looking at the hwfly chip rp2040. I see they dropped the price quite a lot i remember it was like 50$ now its 23$ or something like that. Looking back on it it mightve been worth it to just buy the hwfly and not have to deal with what i had to do with this picofly.
I saw a very interesting thing in the item description . They mentioned that picofly is unreliable and burns your chip (did not specify what chip). From what i searched about this topic i was not able to find anything about it. It would make sense if they lied about it in order to make their product look better , but they also present this problem over their old versions of hwfly chips. What is going on?

Well done Crung!!
To be fair though Jkyoho deserves all the credit for spotting the resistor error.

Regarding the HWFly claims about the Pico, I highly doubt there's an issue. We'd have heard about it by now on this forum if there was any substance to such claims.
This sounds like marketing spin from a team desperately trying to cling on to relevance.
With my, admittedly limited, understanding of how the glitch is delivered I believe it's simply a signal sent at the correct moment at startup. I don't think any any chip is continuously active during use beyond the initial boot.
I also doubt there's anything significantly different about the glitch signal being sent by any of the available chips (happy to be corrected on this).
 
Well done Crung!!
To be fair though Jkyoho deserves all the credit for spotting the resistor error.

Regarding the HWFly claims about the Pico, I highly doubt there's an issue. We'd have heard about it by now on this forum if there was any substance to such claims.
This sounds like marketing spin from a team desperately trying to cling on to relevance.
With my, admittedly limited, understanding of how the glitch is delivered I believe it's simply a signal sent at the correct moment at startup. I don't think any any chip is continuously active during use beyond the initial boot.
I also doubt there's anything significantly different about the glitch signal being sent by any of the available chips (happy to be corrected on this).
You can check the source code if you're curious ;)
 
Today my new resistors reached me. I changed them. Now i got this beautifull "no sd card" screen. I only booted heckate and it seems to work allright? I forgot the screws at my friend s place and cant really put it back together to fully test it. Hope i did a good job and i wont have problems in the future. Im quite proud of myself :) First try. Or second actually but YEAH :D
Special thanks to @jkyoho and @RedFawkes for helping out.
Post automatically merged:

I was looking at the hwfly chip rp2040. I see they dropped the price quite a lot i remember it was like 50$ now its 23$ or something like that. Looking back on it it mightve been worth it to just buy the hwfly and not have to deal with what i had to do with this picofly.
I saw a very interesting thing in the item description . They mentioned that picofly is unreliable and burns your chip (did not specify what chip). From what i searched about this topic i was not able to find anything about it. It would make sense if they lied about it in order to make their product look better , but they also present this problem over their old versions of hwfly chips. What is going on?
good to see u getting it work .

well with the hwfly chip u wouldnt have any support not even from the seller.

that is the reason why hwfly 2040 chips are not supported in the picofly threads, they steal the idea and the firmware from the community then turn around and sell the chip with preflashed firmware (wich was created cause of this community) then they turn around and say the picofly rp2040-Zero,tiny and all other supported boards damage your switch.

Even after they make a good amount of money after selling a hwfly rp2040 set (they make atleast 15$ on each sell) they dont even give u proper support when u have a issue.

then there customers turn around and go back to the community who made all this possible and ask for help.

Just buy the chips that are support by this community and do it that way if u need support from other people when u run in issues
 
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I'm having issues with an install. I've modded many switches with no issues, but this is my first picofly. I checked in diode mode and all seems good. However on boot I get *==, No emmc cmd1 request (Poor Wiring, Bad CPU), and it boots straight into OFW. I will say I accidentally had RST and 3V switched at one point and was getting the RST not detected error. But now I dont know whats going on. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I don't know why but the picofly still lights up green even after the Jumper. I tried it on both chips..
 

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