Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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oh sorry - i missed the freezing part. it didnt freeze for me tbh - it just sometimes doesnt flash on first try for me (without a freeze) sorry for the confusion
I apologize for my poor English. Perhaps I didn't express it clearly, and maybe I shouldn't have used the term "freeze." The issue is that sometimes when I click on the power-off or restart option, the Switch screen goes black directly. When I try to turn it on by pressing the power button again, it doesn't respond, and the LED on the RP2040 chip remains off. I have to perform a 10-second long press of the power button to have a chance of turning it on. Sometimes it can restart normally, but the probability of a failed restart is between 70% and 90%.
 
so i manage to remove the button
by manualy soldering


can someone explain to me how the button work ??

when press the button , which number connect ??
you can see from the image i attach ( 1 2 3 4)

if someday i change to 2 pin leg button (the default rp2040 has 4 pin leg)
is it gonna work ???

Annotation 2023-05-23 205732.png



2 leg pin
Annotation 2023-05-23 210200.png

if someday i use this 2 leg pin, which number i need to solder ? ( 1 2 3 4 )
 
so i manage to remove the button
by manualy soldering


can someone explain to me how the button work ??

when press the button , which number connect ??
you can see from the image i attach ( 1 2 3 4)

if someday i change to 2 pin leg button (the default rp2040 has 4 pin leg)
is it gonna work ???

View attachment 373341


2 leg pin
View attachment 373343
if someday i use this 2 leg pin, which number i need to solder ? ( 1 2 3 4 )

By my experience 3+4 with twezzers


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
 
Hello everyone, try to install the firmware fw_2.73.uf2 On my rp 2040 Zero, But it didn't give me the red light, the result was a quick green light with a faint red And when reconnecting to verify it gave a blue light and then a series of blinks with the same green light with a faint red.

I made the bridge indicated in the guide and still the result did not change.

Then I tried to flash an older firmware and the result was different With versions from 2.65 and below, now It gave an intense green light, without red this time and when reconnecting to verify, the result It was a blue light and then a slight blue light or turquoise light, for a second.

Do you know what could be a solution?
 
so i manage to remove the button
by manualy soldering


can someone explain to me how the button work ??

when press the button , which number connect ??
you can see from the image i attach ( 1 2 3 4)

if someday i change to 2 pin leg button (the default rp2040 has 4 pin leg)
is it gonna work ???

View attachment 373341


2 leg pin
View attachment 373343
if someday i use this 2 leg pin, which number i need to solder ? ( 1 2 3 4 )
1&3 and 2&4 are bridge together(continuity), also 1&3 are ground, so you can do you combination 1+2 or 3+4 or either 2 or 4 to anywhere ground.
 
I apologize for my poor English. Perhaps I didn't express it clearly, and maybe I shouldn't have used the term "freeze." The issue is that sometimes when I click on the power-off or restart option, the Switch screen goes black directly. When I try to turn it on by pressing the power button again, it doesn't respond, and the LED on the RP2040 chip remains off. I have to perform a 10-second long press of the power button to have a chance of turning it on. Sometimes it can restart normally, but the probability of a failed restart is between 70% and 90%.
I’ve experienced exactly this as well and mentioned that here before. Could be a mofset or the chip. It’s annoying sometimes but a usual person sometimes won’t restart their switch for months.
 
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Switch v1 RP2040 w/ 51 ohm resistor &
Single Mosfet w/ 3.3k resistor work and fast boot
 

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Last edited by darviral,
so i manage to remove the button
by manualy soldering


can someone explain to me how the button work ??

when press the button , which number connect ??
you can see from the image i attach ( 1 2 3 4)

if someday i change to 2 pin leg button (the default rp2040 has 4 pin leg)
is it gonna work ???

View attachment 373341


2 leg pin
View attachment 373343
if someday i use this 2 leg pin, which number i need to solder ? ( 1 2 3 4 )
1=3 on/off 2=4
 
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Use the latest firmware (2.73) and ignore the color code. The error code will be in pulse (not in color anymore) like morse code.
hello ,
so what is the right code?
I flashed the file , got green light.
Reconnect to pc get blue , than 2 blinks yellow
is that good? :D
 
what stencil are you using?
ClickMe

this is what i use

i use 3 layer double sided tap to get it on the hight of 4 neodym magnets i put around the emmc so its flush
then add solder paste
after that u take some tweezers and push in the stencil in the middle down so it doesnt buldge when u heat it up and then u add heat till u see all balls formed
after that i ad a bit more flux
then heat it up again till i see the balls melt again
then i let it cool down a bit take the tweezer of
take the stencil off
add a bit more flux reheat it to make sure the balls are perfect
clean all the flux of
set my dat0 point with solder repair pads
then reflow the emmc and be done with it
all that work takes me 10-15 min
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hello ,
so what is the right code?
I flashed the file , got green light.
Reconnect to pc get blue , than 2 blinks yellow
is that good? :D
yes thats normal
 
What do you guys use for neatly cutting the outer shield so the pico doesn't bulge. I have a mini drill set and I've tried both red bits, which were awful. A simple scissors cuts fine but don't look pretty at the end. Any suggestions among these?
 

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