Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Nintendo switch Lite green but nothing on screen

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Can i get some help pls :(

I'm pretty sure that is Red signal on the inversed LED (green after USB write), you should solder the RGB mode jumper.

the firmware from the top of this page might help you. (oh, from the previous page now)
 
Last edited by rehius,
While you are waiting for the v2.6, here is v2.5 with increased timeouts, hopefully should fix the Toshiba case
Damn, its working! I use Dat0 - 330 ohms, clk - 75 ohms, cmd - 75 ohms, rst - 20k.
It blinking blue 3 - 10 times, then red once and boots into cfw. Ofw not boot, even after hard reset.

Upd.: ofw boots chosing "full-stock" mode
 
Last edited by Alex_wallace,
@rehius
IMHO it would be a good feedback/payback to know the
complete hardware of the Switch that did work or didn't, like:

[V1/V2/OLED]-[FirmwareVersion]-[Flex/MOSFET]-[Resistors]-[EMMCS]-[RESULT]


Example
V2-2.5-FlexVersion2-dat330O/clk75O/cmd75O/rst20kO-Toshiba-Working

Anyway a big thank you from me for your work mate.
 
I'm pretty sure that is Red signal on the inversed LED (green after USB write), you should solder the RGB mode jumper.

the firmware from the top of this page might help you. (oh, from the previous page now)
I did it and indeed it was red after the blue flashing, I flashed the 2.5 Toshiba+ unlock but the same thing keeps happening only in the end it is now red.
 
What is the diameter of the wire typically used for soldering to a Piko board? I have been using 0.35mm and I think it might be too thick, so I'm considering using a thinner wire of 0.05mm!
 
What is the diameter of the wire typically used for soldering to a Piko board? I have been using 0.35mm and I think it might be too thick, so I'm considering using a thinner wire of 0.05mm!
most people uses magnet wire for data and AWG 30 for voltage.
 
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hey, I work on this in my free time, and this $3 shit (with mismatching 3.3v/1.8v voltage levels!!) already outperforms hardware fast FPGAs thx to algorithms.

hwfly doesn't work with SanDisk at all, and with this fix, Toshiba should be fine

gimme some time, the todo list for 2.6 is

- fix HOS auto-off code
- software update support
- remove encryption
- faster PIO sniff
- rework OFW-related things
Can fix sd loader problem
 
What is the diameter of the wire typically used for soldering to a Piko board? I have been using 0.35mm and I think it might be too thick, so I'm considering using a thinner wire of 0.05mm!
I personally use 34awg magnet wire as impeeza said, and yea 30awg for power
 
Hello, can I solder the mosfet directly to the rp2040 board and pass a wire from the drain to the capacitor on the apu? or it may interfere with the chip glitch. Has anyone done this test? Thanks.
 
Hello, can I solder the mosfet directly to the rp2040 board and pass a wire from the drain to the capacitor on the apu? or it may interfere with the chip glitch. Has anyone done this test? Thanks.
Needs to be right next to the apu. Would interfere with timing not to mention youd be running thick wires underneath the apu shielding. Thick wire inside the shielding to the mosfet then you run a small wire from the gate of the mosfet to the rp2040
 
Hello,
What thickness of double sided adhesive tape is the best to secure the rp2040 to the switch motherboard? 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm?
 
I made a dedicated RP2040 version, ready for testing.
Z[UC{PQ_7[1({HG2)$2$VRO.jpg
 
Hello, can I solder the mosfet directly to the rp2040 board and pass a wire from the drain to the capacitor on the apu? or it may interfere with the chip glitch. Has anyone done this test? Thanks.
answered several times before, the mosfet must be closest to cap as possible in order to avoid eddy currents and timing issues.
 
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