Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Hey guys,

So I've been working on Picofly for a Switch OLED for a client and I'm getting the *=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?) error. I'm 99% sure my connections are all solid, they're all within the values that I've seen on forums. A, C and 3.3 are about 0.8V, and B is >1.2. I did use a shitty Dat0 adapter before which didn't make any connections to the Dat0 connector. I might have moved it too much and maybe screwed the Dat0 connection... I'm wondering if I have to reball it, because it's showing this error and a blank screen. Is there another way to pull Dat0? I do have a hot air rework station on hand so I can try to reflow the eMMC, but I'm a bit worried I'd brick it even further if it's not reballed. Anybody have any ideas on what I should do?
 
Hey guys,

So I've been working on Picofly for a Switch OLED for a client and I'm getting the *=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?) error. I'm 99% sure my connections are all solid, they're all within the values that I've seen on forums. A, C and 3.3 are about 0.8V, and B is >1.2. I did use a shitty Dat0 adapter before which didn't make any connections to the Dat0 connector. I might have moved it too much and maybe screwed the Dat0 connection... I'm wondering if I have to reball it, because it's showing this error and a blank screen. Is there another way to pull Dat0? I do have a hot air rework station on hand so I can try to reflow the eMMC, but I'm a bit worried I'd brick it even further if it's not reballed. Anybody have any ideas on what I should do?
What happens if you disconnect the dat0? Does it boot normally?
 
Disconnecting the Dat0 gives me the =* error, indicating Dat0 is not connected.
Sorry what I meant was, if you disconnect the chip from the unit, does it boot normally. If you look at my previous post, even when the reading is correct, the connection might still be the problem. Redo your dat0 connection, if you're using adaptor, reseat it, if kamikaze, resolder
 
Sorry what I meant was, if you disconnect the chip from the unit, does it boot normally. If you look at my previous post, even when the reading is correct, the connection might still be the problem. Redo your dat0 connection, if you're using adaptor, reseat it, if kamikaze, resolder
I've redone the adapter at least 4-5 times now, with no change in the error code or voltage. I'm guessing I'd have to reball it and while I have done smd resoldering before I'm not super comfortable reballing. Maybe I'll try reflowing with the dat0 adapter in place and see if that'll help. Kamikaze would be out of the question right now, I think I'd rather take a shot at reballing it lol
 
I've redone the adapter at least 4-5 times now, with no change in the error code or voltage. I'm guessing I'd have to reball it and while I have done smd resoldering before I'm not super comfortable reballing. Maybe I'll try reflowing with the dat0 adapter in place and see if that'll help. Kamikaze would be out of the question right now, I think I'd rather take a shot at reballing it lol
So it doesn't boot even when everything is removed? 😲
 
I've redone the adapter at least 4-5 times now, with no change in the error code or voltage. I'm guessing I'd have to reball it and while I have done smd resoldering before I'm not super comfortable reballing. Maybe I'll try reflowing with the dat0 adapter in place and see if that'll help. Kamikaze would be out of the question right now, I think I'd rather take a shot at reballing it lol
I would not touch the emmc at this point (no reball/reflow) since it's clearly giving you Dat0 error if disconnected.
But since you mentioned that you changed the dat0 adapter a few times, maybe you shorted the lines and your emmc is now corrupted.
 
If you have the original you are ok there is no need to remove anything.
**= No eMMC block 1 read error has happened to me only from poor quality flex cables from aliexpress clones. Remove the flex cable completery and use good quality wires with solid connections. It is caused from poor wiring that doesnt pass the signals correctly.

Dont get me wrong the flex cables work almost every time but i had 3 cases with the error code you mention and it was the flex cable every time.

Everything is wire except for the mosfet to sp1 sp2 is fpcb. I've removed everything and redid everything from scratch. Since I'm installing instinct later, I'm using the cpu flex from instinct. And it still had the same issue. I even removed the solder mask on dat0, cleaned, and reapplied solder mask to make sure there's no grounding to other layer of the pcb, still it boots ofw 1 in 15 tries. I'm moving on. It's not worth wasting more time on it. The salvaged chip and flex works on another console. So it's a mystery. Switch belongs to my work colleague and I've already had it for a while.
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Update: as a last ditch effort, I made my kamikaze point a lot bigger, change the dat0 wire from 0.1mm enamel to UL10064 wire and that solved my glitching issue. Now the console glitches all the time (2.75 firmware). But I suspect it wasn't the wire that was causing the problem. It must be the soldering. I wanted the kamikaze point to look nice so I kept it tiny (around 0.5mm). That made soldering difficult and even though I did get the right value at C point on the chip (0.5-0.7), it mustn't have been a solid connection. The correct reading gave me a false sense that my soldering was good. The reason I think it wasn't the wire because in the past I have used both 0.1mm enamel wire and insulated 36awg wire interchangeably when soldering the dat0 point with no issues.

To anyone having this 1 in 15 boots to ofw please check your dat0 connection, even if it gives you the right reading. Thanks to everyone who have given helpful suggestions, really appreciate it. Resistor value does not matter in my case, I tested with 100/100/47, 240/47/47 (AliExpress clone), 47/47/47. They all glitch 100% of the time. With 47/47/47, the switch may fail to boot and stuck on black screen after Nintendo logo once in a while. If you're using rp2040 zero or tiny, go 100/100/47 as advised or just stick with the AliExpress pre-assembled clone.

As for why instinct works with a dodgy dat0 connection, I have no clue 😵‍💫

As i told you. It can be other wires too, not only dat0. Make solid shiny connections and avoid cheap flex cables the advice from all of this.
 
I would not touch the emmc at this point (no reball/reflow) since it's clearly giving you Dat0 error if disconnected.
But since you mentioned that you changed the dat0 adapter a few times, maybe you shorted the lines and your emmc is now corrupted.
I guess that could also be possible, but there's no way to check unless I were to remove the chip? I can't imagine it would just corrupt if the connection is removed, and the friction piece shouldn't erode the mask. Lemme try removing the dat0 adapter completely and try.

Still showing =* on it with the adapter removed.
 
Last edited by razgrizaces,
I guess that could also be possible, but there's no way to check unless I were to remove the chip? I can't imagine it would just corrupt if the connection is removed, and the friction piece shouldn't erode the mask. Lemme try removing the dat0 adapter completely and try.

Still showing =* on it with the adapter removed.
remove all modchip solder work and check if it boot to OFW. for sure you have error code if connection not there but thats not the point. Make sure your console still boot up OFW normal without any modchip connection
Dont forget remove RST cable/wire as well
 
It’s a shame for the customer who left the console to someone not capable of doing things right.
And clearly lack the skills/experience of working with electronics and soldering.
Hope you atleast is going to replace the console with a new one.
And one hope they did not have to many hours of save games that are gone now.
 
It’s a shame for the customer who left the console to someone not capable of doing things right.
And clearly lack the skills/experience of working with electronics and soldering.
Hope you atleast is going to replace the console with a new one.
And one hope they did not have to many hours of save games that are gone now.
I've been soldering for at least 8 years and this is my first console I've ever worked on. I've done plenty of PCB repairs and MCU swaps and other microsoldering fixes on other PCBs. The first Dat0 adapter the customer provided was faulty as it wasn't even reading voltage on it, reading on it, it was the worst adapter that could have been provided. Had I had been given a correct Dat0 adapter I don't think this issue would have occurred. The only reason I replaced the Dat0 adapter cables multiple times was because I had this issue being read as a result of the faulty adapter. Next time I do attempt this I will know what to do. And you're right, I will probably end up replacing the console with a new one due to my mistake. It's unfortunate but learning from mistakes is why I do this hobby.
 
I've been soldering for at least 8 years and this is my first console I've ever worked on. I've done plenty of PCB repairs and MCU swaps and other microsoldering fixes on other PCBs. The first Dat0 adapter the customer provided was faulty as it wasn't even reading voltage on it, reading on it, it was the worst adapter that could have been provided. Had I had been given a correct Dat0 adapter I don't think this issue would have occurred. The only reason I replaced the Dat0 adapter cables multiple times was because I had this issue being read as a result of the faulty adapter. Next time I do attempt this I will know what to do. And you're right, I will probably end up replacing the console with a new one due to my mistake. It's unfortunate but learning from mistakes is why I do this hobby.
Is the console booting normally when everything is removed? that's the main thing. It needs to be booting normally before you attempt anything else.
 
Disconnecting the Dat0 gives me the =* error, indicating Dat0 is not connected.
Ok but does it start or does it remain in black screen? I learned with experience to check the installation steps before finishing it to quickly identify any errors. On oleds I make intermediate starts
1 start after exposure date0
2 Start after soldering all points except date0
3 START INSTALLATION COMPLETE
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I've been soldering for at least 8 years and this is my first console I've ever worked on. I've done plenty of PCB repairs and MCU swaps and other microsoldering fixes on other PCBs. The first Dat0 adapter the customer provided was faulty as it wasn't even reading voltage on it, reading on it, it was the worst adapter that could have been provided. Had I had been given a correct Dat0 adapter I don't think this issue would have occurred. The only reason I replaced the Dat0 adapter cables multiple times was because I had this issue being read as a result of the faulty adapter. Next time I do attempt this I will know what to do. And you're right, I will probably end up replacing the console with a new one due to my mistake. It's unfortunate but learning from mistakes is why I do this hobby.
There are no good adapters or bad adapters. Adapters, even if installed correctly, very often cause false contacts that the modchip reads as disconnection =* DAT0
 
Last edited by LuigiGad,
Ok but does it start or does it remain in black screen? I learned with experience to check the installation steps before finishing it to quickly identify any errors. On oleds I make intermediate starts
1 start after exposure date0
2 Start after soldering all points except date0
3 START INSTALLATION COMPLETE
Post automatically merged:


There are no good adapters or bad adapters. Adapters, even if installed correctly, very often cause false contacts that the modchip reads as disconnection =* DAT0
I will tell it once again! Dont make false statements! Dont misslead people. I have used over 150 CORRECT adapters and i havent got not even one return over 2 years now!! Dont make statements that you dont know for sure. Dont assume things from other posts. There are so many posts here that are so missleading and people read them and they end up with false information. When you write something you have the responsibility to write the correct thing.
 
I will tell it once again! Dont make false statements! Dont misslead people. I have used over 150 CORRECT adapters and i havent got not even one return over 2 years now!! Dont make statements that you dont know for sure. Dont assume things from other posts. There are so many posts here that are so missleading and people read them and they end up with false information. When you write something you have the responsibility to write the correct thing.
It's the reality, there is always a percentage of returns, maybe you were lucky but your experience doesn't make statistics. Using the adapter is always lucky. I also have most of the adapters fine, but not all. What you say is false
 
It's the reality, there is always a percentage of returns, maybe you were lucky but your experience doesn't make statistics. Using the adapter is always lucky. I also have most of the adapters fine, but not all. What you say is false
Then you are placing them the wrong way. You don't use enought tension to the adapter
 
Don't use adapter if you're selling it as a service. It's as simple as that.
Then you are placing them the wrong way. You don't use enought tension to the adapter
out of curiosity, why do you avoid kamikaze when you know soldering makes a solid connection? plus it saves time.
 
Why not the client decide.

Use dat0 flex adapter cost this, use kamikaze cost this, and use emmc pcb layer adapter cost this.
And explain the difference between it.
So when some ship happened, its not on the modder burden but on the client itself.
 
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