Hardware No Vol+ working but flexx cable is ok

[FunThomas]

Hello,
i gave my switch to a repair service nearby (which has no switch modding experience) to install a Trinket M0 with the circuit layout from the install thread.

Now we have the problem that the volume+ button does not work anymore. The Trinket M0 is out of the switch and no changes in vol+ still not working. We changed the flex cable for vol+power but no change. The capacitor seems to be ok but are there some other components that could be fault which are needed to change the volume?

Are there any places where we can get some help to find some wiring diagram/schematics?
Are there any points you know where we can measure/check what is the fault?

thanks in advance,
Thomas

 

[mvmiranda]

Hello,
i gave my switch to a repair service nearby (which has no switch modding experience) to install a Trinket M0 with the circuit layout from the install thread.

Now we have the problem that the volume+ button does not work anymore. The Trinket M0 is out of the switch and no changes in vol+ still not working. We changed the flex cable for vol+power but no change. The capacitor seems to be ok but are there some other components that could be fault which are needed to change the volume?

Are there any places where we can get some help to find some wiring diagram/schematics?
Are there any points you know where we can measure/check what is the fault?

thanks in advance,
Thomas

I've seen and experienced this issue before, but in my case it was a RCM-X86 black version, which I believe it's a clone of the Trinked M0:

In my case, it was related to the software inside the chip that was jamming the VOL+... Let me explain it better:
1) I followed euclala's pinout for installing the chip:

His original pinout tells us to use D0 for Joy Con pin 10.

2) I used SwitchBoot UF2 for "dual boot" Original + emuNAND by Holding VOL+ and power (https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-rebug-others-switchboot_uf2-fusee_uf2-modchip-software.526607/)

This is, usually, what everyone uses for dual boot.
The big deal here is that this UF2 needs a different data pin from the chip and when using the D0 produces the exact issue as you described.

I just switched from D0 to D2 and the issue was gone and I still had the desired behavior!
Since the pinout should match, if they followed the exact steps as I did (or want to swap to this method), ask them to use pin labeled 2.

I hope this helps you!

 

[FunThomas]

I've seen and experienced this issue before, but in my case it was a RCM-X86 black version, which I believe it's a clone of the Trinked M0:
View attachment 254478

In my case, it was related to the software inside the chip that was jamming the VOL+... Let me explain it better:
1) I followed euclala's pinout for installing the chip:
View attachment 254475
His original pinout tells us to use D0 for Joy Con pin 10.

2) I used SwitchBoot UF2 for "dual boot" Original + emuNAND by Holding VOL+ and power (https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-rebug-others-switchboot_uf2-fusee_uf2-modchip-software.526607/)
View attachment 254476

This is, usually, what everyone uses for dual boot.
The big deal here is that this UF2 needs a different data pin from the chip and when using the D0 produces the exact issue as you described.

I just switched from D0 to D2 and the issue was gone and I still had the desired behavior!
Since the pinout should match, if they followed the exact steps as I did (or want to swap to this method), ask them to use pin labeled 2.

I hope this helps you!

thanx for your answer but the problem is when the trinket is out of the switch (no more connected)
vol+ does still not work so there is something damaged

we used the pinout from the install thread and today i checked my 2nd switch which has also the Trinket M0 and the same points used like in the install thread

so same trinket M0, same software on chip but one switch is now damaged and i don't know what to do
to fix vol+ not working

 

[mvmiranda]

thanx for your answer but the problem is when the trinket is out of the switch (no more connected)
vol+ does still not work so there is something damaged

we used the pinout from the install thread and today i checked my 2nd switch which has also the Trinket M0 and the same points used like in the install thread

so same trinket M0, same software on chip but one switch is now damaged and i don't know what to do
to fix vol+ not working

I see! Sorry for the false hope then!
I started reading and didn't finish before jumping to my writing...

Well, have you checked the connector on the board?
Follow the traces looking for any scratches, tiny solder ball causing any short, small ripped off component, etc.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Hello,
i gave my switch to a repair service nearby (which has no switch modding experience) to install a Trinket M0 with the circuit layout from the install thread.

Now we have the problem that the volume+ button does not work anymore. The Trinket M0 is out of the switch and no changes in vol+ still not working. We changed the flex cable for vol+power but no change. The capacitor seems to be ok but are there some other components that could be fault which are needed to change the volume?

Are there any places where we can get some help to find some wiring diagram/schematics?
Are there any points you know where we can measure/check what is the fault?

thanks in advance,
Thomas

Have you measured the button continuity with a multimeter?

 

[FunThomas]

Have you measured the button continuity with a multimeter?

the repair shop cleaned the pcb and changed the flex cable but no change

which points do you mean to measure ? the vol+ solder point on the capacitor measured to GND should be 3V and when button pressed should be down to 0V ?

a wiring diagram would be helpful but its impossible for me to find one

 

[The Real Jdbye]

the repair shop cleaned the pcb and changed the flex cable but no change

which points do you mean to measure ? the vol+ solder point on the capacitor measured to GND should be 3V and when button pressed should be down to 0V ?

I think so. But if they replaced the cable that's probably not it.