Hacking "Hidden home button" hardmod

[EclipseSin]

Thanks! Thought I would try to minimize case damage since I'm not good at making ports in plastic without them looking like poop and it happened to work out this way. My red o3DS has seen better days.. Has mod holes and scrapes everywhere lol having trouble finding replacement shells

 

[oldmumak]

Great idea ElipiseSin. I ordered some metal eject pins(the plastic ones keep breaking), so hopefully gluing the wire right to the pin eo works.

 

[bedbug1226]

That would be nice. According to every single proof and reverse engineering work of dekuNukem I believe (and I know that) that when PIN 10 is grounded JoyCon is not able to use Serial connection via rail.

You know... I'm that kind of guy who doesn't believe what people say but rather what I see.

Any way I could post proof of my switch for you? I have pin 9 bent on the tip to pin 10.

 

[GunzOfNavarone]

I think I roll the best joints in my town
But I think as you do. I tried soldering on a board I had in my house this afternoon and I saw it was not as easy as I thought, plus the size of the joycon...

Lol. I read my comment back after leaving it and half expected this double entendre.

 

[fixingmytoys]

Tomorrow I'll be soldering the pcb (waiting for the triwing to arrive home from amazon). Just one question: is it hard to do? It's gonna be the first time I solder anything lol

i thinking of hard wiring it with a switch to turn on and off

 

[fixingmytoys]

HI now it getting lost in all this back and forth , i have this one question , if I solder a wire between pin 10 and GND ie i nice little wire in side the switch, will the joy-cons work both on and off the switch if not i will put a tiny switch in there as well between pin 10 and GND

 

[phn]

Tomorrow I'll be soldering the pcb (waiting for the triwing to arrive home from amazon). Just one question: is it hard to do? It's gonna be the first time I solder anything lol

I'm quoting myself because I think I went too fast writing this. I've received the triwing and I've opened the joy-con... WTF MAN WHY IS EVERYTHING SO DAMN SMALL OH GOD I'M GONNA MELT THE WHOLE BOARD WHY DON'T YOU THINK OF US NINTENDO WHY SO FUCKING SMALL
I'm going to preorder another rail cause I am 100% sure I'm gonna mess it up lol

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i thinking of hard wiring it with a switch to turn on and off

Man if I find difficult to solder I cannot even think of adding a switch

 

[fixingmytoys]

I'm quoting myself because I think I went too fast writing this. I've received the triwing and I've opened the joy-con... WTF MAN WHY IS EVERYTHING SO DAMN SMALL OH GOD I'M GONNA MELT THE WHOLE BOARD WHY DON'T YOU THINK OF US NINTENDO WHY SO FUCKING SMALL
I'm going to preorder another rail cause I am 100% sure I'm gonna mess it up lol

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Man if I find difficult to solder I cannot even think of adding a switch

i will just put on my nerd magnifying glasses plus i have a USB microscope i use for this type of stuff

 

[punderino]

Interesting. Indeed I did the same exercise so many times and for me it always shows as not handheld mode when I ground PIN 10. What kind of mod are you using ? Permament ? PIN 10 & 9 ? Which FW ?

It's because you fucked it up.
"RCM working but not handheld mode, because 9 is shorted to 10, but both are only touching 10's pad" - ktemkin

 

[phn]

So.. If I put some metal between pins 9 and 10 (not "breaking" 9 to touch 10, I mean just putting tin between both of them) would make it work and wouldn't break the handheld mode?

 

[kombos]

It's because you fucked it up.
"RCM working but not handheld mode, because 9 is shorted to 10, but both are only touching 10's pad" - ktemkin

Sure sure... Put some effort and read the thread. It's not working because PIN 10 is Flow Control used in Serial communication when JoyCon is placed in rail and act as a handheld mode. When you ground PIN 10 Flow Control basically doesn't work, hence JoyCon cannot be detected in Serial. It only charges from rail and work over bluetooth. - @kombos

And if you read the thread you will figure out that I didn't used PIN 9 but PIN 10 & 1 using 2 position switch and solid soldering skills.

Basically it work as expected, when I pull switch open everything works fine, when I pull switch closed it's grounded and doesn't work in handheld.
Actually I'm going to say that if there is someone who have different behavior fucked up something.

 

[punderino]

Sure sure... Put some effort and read the thread. It's not working because PIN 10 is Flow Control used in Serial communication when JoyCon is placed in rail and act as a handheld mode. When you ground PIN 10 Flow Control basically doesn't work, hence JoyCon cannot be detected in Serial. It only charges from rail and work over bluetooth. - @kombos

And if you read the thread you will figure out that I didn't used PIN 9 but PIN 10 & 1 using 2 position switch and solid soldering skills.

Basically it work as expected, when I pull switch open everything works fine, when I pull switch closed it's grounded and doesn't work in handheld.
Actually I'm going to say that if there is someone who have different behavior fucked up something.

I was quoting ktemkin, yknow. The person from Reswitched who was the one releasing this exploit? I'd believe them before you guys arguing about Joycons lol

 

[kombos]

I was quoting ktemkin, yknow. The person from Reswitched who was the one releasing this exploit? I'd believe them before you guys arguing about Joycons lol

That's fine. I know who they are. I respect their work, but it doesn't mean I have to believe in every single word they say, especially when there are different sources all over internet stating other. Just because I didn't found an Tegra exploit doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing. I believe rather myself and my experience when I see something and understand how it's behave, rather than believe others who says something which doesn't even sound logical for me.

Below is a reddit thread about joycon mod and people confirm that it's behave as it should which means grounded pin 10 != JoyCon attached.

https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchHaxing/comments/8ego75/joyconhax/?ref=readnext

The thing is, anyone can believe whatever he want to. I don't care.

 

[xtrem3x]

Why do you need to even solder at all?

Why not just go to your local vehicle parts store and buy a conductive pen used to repair the heater element on rear windows:
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/adhesives/granville-rear-heater-repair

Then just draw a line with it between the 2 points on the rail.
If you go wrong, you can just scrape it off. This is how I used to volt mod my old Nvidia graphics card back in the days of the 6800. So much easier than solder and less risky.

 

[fixingmytoys]

SO will the joy-com work it if attached to the switch with pins 10 and gnd on the switch wired or not that is how i use it 90% of the time

 

[kombos]

SO will the joy-com work it if attached to the switch with pins 10 and gnd on the switch wired or not that is how i use it 90% of the time

Just install some sort of switch to break bridge circuit when you trigger RCM. It's probably unsafe to do permanent mods on joycon, as it's potentially can be used by nintendo to detect bootrom hax.

@xtrem3x - personally for me it was way easier just to solder and install switch inside my joycon. I wouldn't say it's less risky, as putting anything not designed to fit there is more risky for me as it potentially can bend/broke/whatever pins on switch rail rather than joycon rail. If something went wrong I can just buy new joycon instead of new console. I wouldn't mind if I had to do that once and forget, however at least for now it seems like this method or triggering RCM would be needed on every coldboot. Simply as that, I'd preffer just changing switch position on my joycon rather than remove joycon from the rail everytime and stick screwdrivers, paperclips, whatever. However I have to say that conductive pen sounds like a good idea.

 

[aut0mat3d]

soldered in a tiny switch which i can press if needed.
Also i added a 2k2 Resistor in series to protect the port...

 

[fixingmytoys]

Just install some sort of switch to break bridge circuit when you trigger RCM. It's probably unsafe to do permanent mods on joycon, as it's potentially can be used by nintendo to detect bootrom hax.

@xtrem3x - personally for me it was way easier just to solder and install switch inside my joycon. I wouldn't say it's less risky, as putting anything not designed to fit there is more risky for me as it potentially can bend/broke/whatever pins on switch rail rather than joycon rail. If something went wrong I can just buy new joycon instead of new console. I wouldn't mind if I had to do that once and forget, however at least for now it seems like this method or triggering RCM would be needed on every coldboot. Simply as that, I'd preffer just changing switch position on my joycon rather than remove joycon from the rail everytime and stick screwdrivers, paperclips, whatever. However I have to say that conductive pen sounds like a good idea.

cool that was what i was thinking ie if i ever need to get a new joy-con etc

 

[phn]

I DID IT!! Thanks to everyone!! I soldered the points on the right (the one on the rail) and now the switch gets recognised on pc as APX!! Thanks a lot for all the advices!! <3
Oh!! And I have the joycon working as handheld. No problems so far!!

 

[EclipseSin]

Great idea ElipiseSin. I ordered some metal eject pins(the plastic ones keep breaking), so hopefully gluing the wire right to the pin eo works.View attachment 121385

Mine isn't glued to the copper. The wire is soldered to the copper and the copper is glued to the bottom of the button. I didn't look at the eject pin, though I think I need those too. My left JoyCon slides off without the button now, still takes a little force though. Anyway, you could probably glue the wire, but it will eventually tear off. If you do a modification like that, make sure to use solder for connections. The only reason one end on mine isn't using solder on is because of the screw.