Good case and PSU?

Discussion in 'Computer Games and General Discussion' started by Sop, Mar 7, 2011.

Mar 7, 2011

Good case and PSU? by Sop at 9:34 AM (902 Views / 0 Likes) 14 replies

  1. Sop
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    Banned Sop groovy dude lmao

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  2. Splych

    Member Splych GBAtemp's Lurker

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    well it depends . . .
    - what the comp is going to be used for
    -> gaming, regular use, heavy editing

    for gaming and heavy use , having good air flow is the main priority . following that is being sure the parts you buy will be able to fit . secondly , the extra stuff such as cable management and the size of the case are probably the only preferences you can have . oh and budget .

    the cases are bundled with PSUs which are probably not going to be good . recommended brands i'd say are for PSU: Antec or Corsair . if you can't go for those , then go for XFX, CoolerMaster or OCZ . too many choices for cases . . . though i've read good reviews from Cooler Master and Thermaltake . Antec is pretty good too .
     
  3. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    My experience - Tagan and Enermax make the best PSUs, followed by Antec and Corsair. Just never go for cheap or brandless PSUs - they're prone to explosions.

    For the case, Antec, Corsair, Lian Li, CoolerMaster and Silverstone are the best brands to go for, but that also makes up 70% of the market. The quality of the case should scale with the budget of the system - high end parts will need a high end case. Budgets systems can use any case. Mid range systems probably just need a case with at least one intake fan and one exhaust fan. Size and looks of the case are also secondary factors - pick one that's good at cooling and looks aesthetically pleasing to you.

    So, how about making our job of giving advice easier - look for a case you like the look of, or has the best features (like the giant fan on top of the Antec 600), narrow it down to the 2 or 3 that you like the most, then we'll help you pick out of them.

    As for the PSU... as long as it's from a quality brand and gives enough wattage to power your system (you've not told us the other parts - especially the CPU and graphics card - so we don't know how much power you need), then it'll be fine. As a general rule, no single-GPU computer should need more than 650W, with most needing only around 450-550W or 600W for a high-end system.
     
  4. overslept

    Member overslept WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WORLD

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    So you haven't built it yet. Just like I expected. You're 11, so you can't possibly be editing anything or working. You're on GBAtemp, so I'm guessing you'll be gaming.

    That being said, I strongly recommend you take my advice that I gave you in one of your many previous threads about this and visit this site. You'll learn a lot there, especially for a first time PC builder.
     
  5. Sop
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    Banned Sop groovy dude lmao

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    Well actually could you tell me a whole rig I have a book that tells you how to build a PC but the parts are outdated. I want a quiet (preferably small) PC, it will mainly be used for web browsing homework and playing some games like minevraft and other indie games. I was thinking of a mobo with support for usb3 and sandy bridge processors for future proofing. And I'm actually turning 13 this year also MAX PRICE=$850
    P.S Must be expandable in case I want to add stuff.
    I already have enough for a case.
     
  6. Splych

    Member Splych GBAtemp's Lurker

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    man . . . young-ings trying to make computers .
    to be honest , you should be researching on reviews on the newer parts and such so you have an idea of what you want .

    for something as simple as web browsing, homework, and indie games , then you can pull off a good enough computer for under $850 . something with a Phenom II X2 will be good enough for your needs . . . and probably a Radeon HD 5770 .
     
  7. Sop
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    Banned Sop groovy dude lmao

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    Wait a second.. Can you get wifi in desktop PC's?
     
  8. Hakoda

    Member Hakoda GBAtemp Addict

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    Wireless card can be attached via PCI-E or PCI port.
     
  9. overslept

    Member overslept WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WALLY WORLD

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    Again, I highly recommend visiting the site I linked you to earlier. I can vouch for its usefulness; it helped me learn how to find quality parts for my build.

    This looks like the page you're looking for. Tier B: Web PC for the occasional gamer. $396.
     
  10. Narayan

    Member Narayan desu~

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    you've been making threads about building computers as long as i can remember... [​IMG]
     
  11. Puppy_Washer

    Member Puppy_Washer GBAtemp Advanced Fan

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    I recently bought the Antec 1200 case, it's fantastic. Fans all over it, and it wasn't that expensive.
    As for a PSU, go for the bigger name brands. Stay ABSOLUTELY away from the company called "Shaw".
    Their PSU's generally tend to explode, and are of poor quality.

    Or, if you're really desperate, you can use a USB Wifi receiver.
    But I don't recommend that.
     
  12. Evo.lve

    Member Evo.lve All that you could be.

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    The Antec Sonata Designer is a nice mid tower case that IMO looks just plain sexy.
     
  13. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    Basically a computer for homework and a bit of recreation. I would pick a laptop myself, but laptops aren't upgradable.

    An Antec 100 case seems perfect for your needs (it only recently came out, designed as the lil sister to the Antec 300) but it's not on that site you linked so just go with the Antec 300 - it's only $68. You can probably go with an Antec ECO 500W PSU.

    Since you make it sound like you're going to be building the computer part by part as you get money, I would suggest getting a H67 motherboard (when motherboards with B3-stepping comes out for the SATA II fix - which seems like it'll be happening within the next month and a half) with a Core i5-2500K and use the integrated Intel HD 3000 graphics. Add 4GB of the cheapest DDR3 RAM, a $18 DVD drive and a $55 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 HDD, and you'll be set.

    Intel HD 3000 can play all casual games (like TF2, L4D2 and SC2) just fine, and even some more intensive games at medium settings. That should keep you happy long enough to get a GTX 560 or probably even a GTX 660 by the time it comes out (rumours say just before Christmas).
     
  14. Stewy12

    Member Stewy12 GBAtemp Regular

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    Anyone recommend a decent one of these? Or at least brands to go for/avoid.
     
  15. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    I never recommend any specific WiFi product because there are many things that make WiFi unreliable. One of the things is the fact that every brand has several products that don't work well in common environments (i.e. trying to send a signal through walls).

    The biggest brands are Linksys (Cisco), D-Link, Netgear and Belkin. If you look through reviews of their products, you'll usually find around 30-40% of them have bad experiences and migrate between those brands. If you want to know which one to buy for yourself, just look for the "most recommended" in Amazon. Currently, it seems like this is the one to go for.

    EDIT: Might aswell say, I prefer USB WiFi dongles. They might not be as strong as PCIe versions, but they're much easier to position and you can easily take it out and put it in a laptop or another computer. On Amazon, it looks like this is the best one.

    Also, since nobody hasn't answered it yet...
    Yes, there are 4 ways for a desktop PC to get WiFi, and all of them are relatively easy. Firstly, get a motherboard with WiFi build in. It will usually have one or two aerial ports on the back and you usually try and stick the aerials as high as possible for best reception. Secondly, PCI or PCIe WiFi cards that go in one of the motherboard's expansion ports. Thirdly, USB WiFi. Finally, using networked WiFi (either through a WiFi repeater, extender, hub or router - basically using the ethernet port). As with all WiFi devices, these are subject to environmental factors (aswell as quality of parts) which can greatly interfere with getting a signal. The more walls/floors between you and the access point, the worse the signal. The more heavy mental (lead paint, or the computer case itself) and EM interferance (TVs or other high-powered electrical devices), the worse the signal. The further away from the access point, the worse the signal.

    I probably didn't need to explain all that, but it's too late for that now.
     

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