Hardware GBA Backlight! (AGB-001)

[Liriel]

Offset is only 2,3mm.
Thats not Many.

My ips is on the toll.
I think next week it could arrive

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[Liriel]

We All knew that funny Playing delete all Marks on the Display and the adapter of the IPS Display Mod.

But the are not thoroughly.

The Display is found and here it is

[http://www.panelook.com/LH320H04-SD...-SD01_LG Display_3.2_LCM_overview_31255.html)

The Number printed on the Display itself is LCd-39575-003/111 .

This is a LG Panel with the Name LH320H04-SD01 (this number can be found inside the Panel too) which is build in the BlackBerry Curve 9380 .

I found that because i broke my Display and disassembled it.

That mean this specs:

Screen Size 3.2 inch

Pixel Format 360(RGB)×480 \[HVGA\]

Aspect Ratio 3:4

Active Area 48.33(H)×64.44(V) mm

Outline Dim. 52.5(H)×73.63(V)×1.9(D)mm

Luminance 350 cd/m²

Contrast Ratio 800:1 (Typ.) (TM)

Viewing Angle 80/80/80/80

Support Color 16.7M 60% NTSC

Frame Rate 60Hz

Power Supply 2.85/1.8V (Typ.)(VCC/IOVCC)

more Specs can be found under the link

[http://www.panelook.com/LH320H04-SD...-SD01_LG Display_3.2_LCM_overview_31255.html)

The Problem is to get a Panel because most time it is sold out or has a high price.

But now you can search after a panel when it is broke.

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[lemonxd]

When using a brown tabbed screen do I have to use a type A adapter (40 pin)? I am using a type B adapter right now along with the brown tabbed screen and it works fine, however it has some interlacing issues which don't change at all no matter how much I turn the potentiometer. The interlacing isn't very noticeable unless I myself am moving the console around or something is being scrolled vertically on the screen. Is this caused by the wrong adapter?
You can see what I'm talking about in this picture.

You can see the colors of the pixels alternating brightness on each row, even though the color should be solid, not striped.
Note: As I am without a soldering iron right now, I also do not have the wire soldered, however from what I've read the wire ONLY controls brightness and is not needed? If there is any way I can reliably connect it without a soldering iron let me know (if not I can just wait until I get one)

EDIT: I've soldered the wire. The screen is brighter, however the interlacing effect is still there. Adjusting the trim pot does nothing at all still, and I mean literally nothing. The brightness doesn't change when adjusting it (I've heard it normally does?) As long as this interlacing isn't damaging my screen, I'm happy with it. If it is possibly harmful to the screen though, please let me know so that I can remove it

 

[Liriel]

Brown is typ a and should Use a typ a Adapter.
The cable is to give the brightness enough Power to work correct Because the gba display Connector was not made to Power a Light.


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[GBAer]

When using a brown tabbed screen do I have to use a type A adapter (40 pin)? I am using a type B adapter right now along with the brown tabbed screen and it works fine, however it has some interlacing issues which don't change at all no matter how much I turn the potentiometer. The interlacing isn't very noticeable unless I myself am moving the console around or something is being scrolled vertically on the screen. Is this caused by the wrong adapter?
You can see what I'm talking about in this picture.

You can see the colors of the pixels alternating brightness on each row, even though the color should be solid, not striped.
Note: As I am without a soldering iron right now, I also do not have the wire soldered, however from what I've read the wire ONLY controls brightness and is not needed? If there is any way I can reliably connect it without a soldering iron let me know (if not I can just wait until I get one)

EDIT: I've soldered the wire. The screen is brighter, however the interlacing effect is still there. Adjusting the trim pot does nothing at all still, and I mean literally nothing. The brightness doesn't change when adjusting it (I've heard it normally does?) As long as this interlacing isn't damaging my screen, I'm happy with it. If it is possibly harmful to the screen though, please let me know so that I can remove it

If this is the type of adapter you are using, you will need to remove the resistor that I have circled and replace it with a 10K pot. This pot will now allow you to adjust the voltage and get rid of the interlace.

 

[Liriel]

View attachment 178312
If this is the type of adapter you are using, you will need to remove the resistor that I have circled and replace it with a 10K pot. This pot will now allow you to adjust the voltage and get rid of the interlace.

Is that Poti not the one on the gba board?

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[lemonxd]

View attachment 178312
If this is the type of adapter you are using, you will need to remove the resistor that I have circled and replace it with a 10K pot. This pot will now allow you to adjust the voltage and get rid of the interlace.

Yeah, that is the one. I'll do that if I decide to not get the funnyplaying screen. For right now, the screen is going to stay in an SP until I decide on which to do.

 

[GBAer]

Is that Poti not the one on the gba board?

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These adapters bypass the onboard pot, they also have the incorrect resistor value, which is why you get the interlaced screen, same goes for the Aurora brightness adapter.

 

[Liriel]

These adapters bypass the onboard pot, they also have the incorrect resistor value, which is why you get the interlaced screen, same goes for the Aurora brightness adapter.

Not true!
The build in Poti on the board is Useless on Adapter like the Aurora Adapter.

On the picture is a Standard typ b Adapter without any extra.
There are working the Poti on the mainboard.
The Best is that he buy a typ a Adapter and adjust the Poti on the gba board.
They are cheap

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[GBAer]

Not true!
The build in Poti on the board is Useless on Adapter like the Aurora Adapter.

Isn't that what I said? I said that the b type and the Aurora adapters both bypass the the onboard pot. Which is why both these adapter need you remove a resistor and replace it with a 10K pot if you want to get rid of the interlace.

 

[Liriel]

No the normal typ b cable like the one Poster Do not Bypass the poti

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[GBAer]

No the normal typ b cable like the one Poster Do not Bypass the poti

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Yes it does bypass the pot, lemonxd has already said that he is using the type B adapter and this is the reason why when he adjusting the pot it has no effect.

 

[Liriel]

Strange Then i Have a typ Display and a typ b cable and the Poti works!
When i put the Aurora Adapter in it Then the pto doesnt work..

Fin!

I am out of this crap.


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[Razor83]

When i put the Aurora Adapter in it Then the pot doesnt work..

Do you know which versions of the Aurora adapter stop the pot working?

 

[Liriel]

With the first that are out on the markt.
Thats rev c but the only one Thats to get.
And IT is 40pin only

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[GBAer]

Strange Then i Have a typ Display and a typ b cable and the Poti works!
When i put the Aurora Adapter in it Then the pto doesnt work..

Fin!

I am out of this crap.

No one build the expensive ags101 in it since the ips mod is out.

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Strange, I'll post a video showing the 10k pot mod on my 40pin B and Aurora modded GBA's.

 

[GBAer]

Do you know which versions of the Aurora adapter stop the pot working?

The latest version is rev c, which has very noticeable scan lines. You will need to remove and replace a resister on the Aurora with a 10k pot, like shown in the pic above.

 

[Liriel]

Hä??
Scanlines on a ags 101?
You knew that the screen has only 240x160 Pixel?
And that is for this screen not sharp.
You are the first Aurora Adapter User that says He found scanlines.

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[GBAer]

Hä??
Scanlines on a ags 101?
You knew that the screen has only 240x160 Pixel?
And that is for this screen not sharp

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Ok interlace then if thats better.

 

[Liriel]

Is you Adapter defect or why are you solder select to the Chip?

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