Hacking Fresh mod hack error

[tiriannarnia]

Hello,

I'm having some issues with a new Picofly installation. I have installed the latest firmware, but I'm receiving an error code through the LED flashes.

The pattern is as follows:
1. A **blue** flash
2. A **long yellow** flash
3. A **short yellow** flash
4. (Then repeats) A **long yellow** and a **short yellow** flash

Could someone kindly help translate what this specific flash pattern means?

Thank you for your assistance.

 

[tiriannarnia]

I have attached the issue for clarity

 

[bonkmaykr]

RTFM.
https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly

*= CMD is not connected

 

[tiriannarnia]

RTFM.
https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly

Sorry but it looks like this error to me:
=* D0 is not connected

Also the point was to get a recommended solution from an experienced user since d0 is not connected is vague and i am not sure how to test my d0 point with the multimeter

 

[tiriannarnia]

Also i didnt ground sp2 as recomended in the guide i followed in YT, maybe this is related?

 

[bonkmaykr]

Don't use Youtube tutorials, follow the real documentation.

If you can't follow directions you WILL have problems

 

[tiriannarnia]

A small update: i tried another d0 adapter and tried switching into another flex cable since i got a extra set.
The same error remains if that helps narrowing down the issue.

In couple similar threads i checked with d0 error there were no real solutions and already tried recommended fixes like new d0 adapter

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

You might have a cold weld on the bottom side of the top capacitor of the CPU.
This will only affect the glitching but with the DAT0 error you haven't come that far yet.
You might want to double check this area.
If it is fine, just leave it for now.

In couple similar threads i checked with d0 error there were no real solutions and already tried recommended fixes like new d0 adapter

Just use a multimeter to check it out.
Black to ground, red to dat0, diode mode, and it should show around 0,7V.
Too high or too low means the DAT0 adapter is not seated properly.
Sometimes the solder balls on old Switches make bad contact even with a 'good' DAT0 adapter.

First try to see if you can get the 0.7V reading on your DAT0.

 

[tiriannarnia]

You might have a cold weld on the bottom side of the top capacitor of the CPU.
This will only affect the glitching but with the DAT0 error you haven't come that far yet.
You might want to double check this area.
If it is fine, just leave it for now.
View attachment 537151

Just use a multimeter to check it out.
Black to ground, red to dat0, diode mode, and it should show around 0,7V.
Too high or too low means the DAT0 adapter is not seated properly.
Sometimes the solder balls on old Switches make bad contact even with a 'good' DAT0 adapter.

First try to see if you can get the 0.7V reading on your DAT0.

Thanks for your informative reply, the diode reading on d0 adapter is now 1700 a similar 1700-1800 range also reads on the D, A, C points on picofly.
I take it 1700 is not the same as 0.7V?

When connected the error changed into a short flash into a long flash:
So now the new error is: CMD not connected

 

[tiriannarnia]

I am back with another update:
After using multimeter and fixing soldering connections my board now flashes blue and turns off without any errors.
When connected into the switch with battery then error d0 not connected appears and boots into normal switch mode.
When i remove the battery the d0 error is gone
Any ideas why this happens? Its currently charged at 40 percent

edit: after charging at 75 percent to test if this might help i am getting a purple screen. something prevents the glitching but i cant tell why this happens

 

[Ferris1000]

That's not good, soldering SP1 convex prevents the heatsink from sitting flush. You need to remove the solder, press the flex cable down firmly, and solder it concave so the joint sits under the shield plate, not on top of it. I also recommend using a tiny bit of no-clean flux for a stronger connection and a cleaner solder job.
You don't need much solder for a good connection.

 

[tiriannarnia]

That's not good, soldering SP1 convex prevents the heatsink from sitting flush. You need to remove the solder, press the flex cable down firmly, and solder it concave so the joint sits under the shield plate, not on top of it. I also recommend using a tiny bit of no-clean flux for a stronger connection and a cleaner solder job.
You don't need much solder for a good connection.

thanks for the the comment! that was my first ever solder connection and ended up messy, i have already redone it along with other bad connections the readings are now better too.
I also ordered a enameled cable for the d0 adapter it might help according to some comments I found here.

rn I try to fix the persistent and weird 'd0 not connected error' that happens only when battery is connected.
I understand that when it flashes blue and turns off (not connected with battery) is considered ok?

 

[tiriannarnia]

Got some progress, no error shows when connecting board to usb, however when turning on switch i can see the nintendo logo followed by a static purple screen.

Is this error software related?

Sometimes it will even boot into normal mode, most times will stop at nintendo logo followed by purple screen.

Even more confusing is the error i get 3 flashes pattern:
Short long short flashes
There is no such error in the documentation

 

[Nephiel]

Purple screen often means there's something wrong with the CMD resistor.

Even more confusing is the error i get 3 flashes pattern:
Short long short flashes
There is no such error in the documentation

From here:

*=* No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)