Hacking EZ-FLASH Junior TestFlight

[DrunkenMonk]

First of all: SORRY for this question!

But, since when is: "Support Gameboy, Gameboy Pocket, Gameboy Color, Gameboy Advance/SP, even with backlit mods and rechargeable batteries." officially listed in the Feature List of ezflash.cn ??? - https://www.ezflash.cn/product/ezflash-junior/

And what FW and/or Kernel is the best for backlit modded systems? I'am on FW5 and Kernel 1.04e.

Basically, my EZ Jr. boots up and loads/plays games correctly with this FW/Kernel. But if i press the Soft-reset button, it does not reboot correctly into the menu, instead it gets stuck at the "LOADING"-Message.

Are you using rechargeable NiCd batteries by any chance? If so their voltage is known to be a little lower (1.2v x 2 = 2.4v) than your garden variety alkaline AA's (1.5v x 2 = 3v). Rechargeable battery mods that use LiPo packs (3.2-3.7v) are generally the best for a system that draws more power than OEM.

If it happens with regular alkaline AA's then that should still be seen as an issue though...

But if it happens with NiCd batteries... uhh... Who knew undervolting intended operation with increased draw could cause instabilities in systems?! Shame on Nintendo for making such an inferior system!

 

[ghjfdtg]

Actually that's a common myth. These LiPo mods don't give you any advantage over Eneloop Pro/Ikea Ladda rechargeable batteries. NiMh can output a fair amount of current. Alkaline batteries not so much but they are still just about good enough. Higher voltage for the LiPo mods doesn't matter since it has to be converted down with a buck converter anyway which causes losses.

I think it was this video. It shows very nicely that you will be fine with rechargeable NiMH:

 

[DrunkenMonk]

Actually that's a common myth. These LiPo mods don't give you any advantage over Eneloop Pro/Ikea Ladda rechargeable batteries. NiMh can output a fair amount of current. Alkaline batteries not so much but they are still just about good enough. Higher voltage for the LiPo mods doesn't matter since it has to be converted down with a buck converter anyway which causes losses.

I think it was this video. It shows very nicely that you will be fine with rechargeable NiMH:

There's no reason you'd need to down convert a 3.2v lipo, you can actually be a big brain science man and check voltage drops across the system for actual real life proof in the pudding. If it were a myth and you listened to makho, you'd not see your power light hit red indicating low power (voltage drop) whilst using a heavy flash cart and be fine (green) whilst using a regular cart.

Don't cite makho as a valid reference. That's like me citing linustechtips for information on heart surgery.
Also eneloop can go the complete opposite direction (4.2v~) and actually need to convert to kick out a more desirable 3.3v~

Though using one of the pre-packaged lipo battery mods does seem rather meaningless to that end (just make your own)

There is indeed a benefit to using a slightly higher voltage in these scenarios (regular fresh AA alkaline batteries can push 1.8v x 2 = 3.6v which is why they should be used as a control... Also hence why I asked and posed a hypothetical).

"debugging is a common myth" - ghjfdtg

 

[ghjfdtg]

It has to step down because fully charged LiPos are 4.2V which is way higher than the usual 3.2V you get out of 2 alkalines (they have around 1.6V out of the package without load and not 1.8V). We can't say 4.2V is safe until we know the internal converter is rated for this voltage.

Wtf, where do you get the idea NiMH cells can go as high as 2.4V per cell? The chemistry simply doesn't allow this.

Regardless of all this the limiting factor is the internal buck-boost converter (boost only for GBC and earlier). It's simply not designed to deliver the current for all the fancy mods and the flashcart. The LiPo mods won't change that and have no advantage in battery life. Plus you have to cut your shell.

 

[realtimesave]

They need to scrap this one and come out with a new pcb revision that works on SGB without needing to press reset 2 or 3 times whatever it takes.

But I digress....

 

[Bonny]

Are you using rechargeable NiCd batteries by any chance? If so their voltage is known to be a little lower (1.2v x 2 = 2.4v) than your garden variety alkaline AA's (1.5v x 2 = 3v). Rechargeable battery mods that use LiPo packs (3.2-3.7v) are generally the best for a system that draws more power than OEM.

If it happens with regular alkaline AA's then that should still be seen as an issue though...

But if it happens with NiCd batteries... uhh... Who knew undervolting intended operation with increased draw could cause instabilities in systems?! Shame on Nintendo for making such an inferior system!

I'am using an backlit modded GameBoy Pocket, they use 2 AAA batteries, not AA batteries.

I run my GBP with 2 AAA Nickle Metal Hydride Accus (1.2V / 1100mAh). They are fully charged.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Another "funny" fact: I also own a backlit-modded GameBoy Color. If i put the EZ Jr. in it, and turn on the power switch, the systems turns on for an half second, then shuts off completely.

I'am just charging new purchased powerful AA accus for it, will try it with them later.

 

[DrunkenMonk]

I'am using an backlit modded GameBoy Pocket, they use 2 AAA batteries, not AA batteries.

I run my GBP with 2 AAA Nickle Metal Hydride Accus (1.2V / 1100mAh). They are fully charged.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Another "funny" fact: I also own a backlit-modded GameBoy Color. If i put the EZ Jr. in it, and turn on the power switch, the systems turns on for an half second, then shuts off completely.

I'am just charging new purchased powerful AA accus for it, will try it with them later.

AA/AAA same voltage, I'd say try some standard AAA alkaline batteries to rule it out

 

[WiLLiW]

They need to scrap this one and come out with a new pcb revision that works on SGB without needing to press reset 2 or 3 times whatever it takes.

But I digress....

Unmoded GBL, two 1.2vNiMH 2600+ batteries and vanilla v1.04 fw4 Ez-Flash Jr. here and working flawlessly. Why change the pcb? For one or two heavy power LCD modded systems ?

 

[realtimesave]

Unmoded GBL, two 1.2vNiMH 2600+ batteries and vanilla v1.04 fw4 Ez-Flash Jr. here and working flawlessly. Why change the pcb? For one or two heavy power LCD modded systems ?

Super Gameboy.

 

[Bonny]

Unmoded GBL, two 1.2vNiMH 2600+ batteries and vanilla v1.04 fw4 Ez-Flash Jr. here and working flawlessly. Why change the pcb? For one or two heavy power LCD modded systems ?

Because even the worst backlit modded system has a much better screen as a Gameboy Light? I also own a GBL, the display is horrible compared to even the worst mod-job.

 

[WiLLiW]

Because even the worst backlit modded system has a much better screen as a Gameboy Light? I also own a GBL, the display is horrible compared to even the worst mod-job.

To me the original LCD is perfect. It's nostalgic, made from the cheap technology from that era. Sorry to be frank, but, nice and crispy graphics in an super amoled screen is more suitable for the smartphones emulators.

 

[DrunkenMonk]

Unmoded GBL, two 1.2vNiMH 2600+ batteries and vanilla v1.04 fw4 Ez-Flash Jr. here and working flawlessly. Why change the pcb? For one or two heavy power LCD modded systems ?

Why use a GBL when you can use a GBC with a worm light attachment?

 

[WiLLiW]

Why use a GBL when you can use a GBC with a worm light attachment?

 

[Bonny]

Why use a GBL when you can use a GBC with a worm light attachment?

Thats what i did 25 years ago And i really can't say if it's the better option, compared to a GBL...

 

[realtimesave]

To me the original LCD is perfect. It's nostalgic, made from the cheap technology from that era. Sorry to be frank, but, nice and crispy graphics in an super amoled screen is more suitable for the smartphones emulators.

I have never even thought to replace the screen in mine. First time I ever played one, I was fine with it and still am. At least it isn't blurry and ugly like the original DMG. However I'm not changing that one either.

 

[WiLLiW]

I have never even thought to replace the screen in mine. First time I ever played one, I was fine with it and still am. At least it isn't blurry and ugly like the original DMG. However I'm not changing that one either.

Noice! Me too!

 

[Bonnom]

First of all: SORRY for this question!

But, since when is: "Support Gameboy, Gameboy Pocket, Gameboy Color, Gameboy Advance/SP, even with backlit mods and rechargeable batteries." officially listed in the Feature List of ezflash.cn ??? - https://www.ezflash.cn/product/ezflash-junior/

And what FW and/or Kernel is the best for backlit modded systems? I'am on FW5 and Kernel 1.04e.

Basically, my EZ Jr. boots up and loads/plays games correctly with this FW/Kernel. But if i press the Soft-reset button, it does not reboot correctly into the menu, instead it gets stuck at the "LOADING"-Message.

Intereseting bug Getting stuck at Loading screen is something that is the biggest problem with FW5 and the reason it got removed from the website. My EZ jr could never get past the loading screen on FW5. Not just resetting, really never.

I would try FW4 and see if it resolves the problem and please report back if it helped!! If it helped it might give @EZ-Flash2 a bit more insight into the loading problem with FW5.

 

[Bonnom]

I'am using an backlit modded GameBoy Pocket, they use 2 AAA batteries, not AA batteries.

I run my GBP with 2 AAA Nickle Metal Hydride Accus (1.2V / 1100mAh). They are fully charged.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Another "funny" fact: I also own a backlit-modded GameBoy Color. If i put the EZ Jr. in it, and turn on the power switch, the systems turns on for an half second, then shuts off completely.

I'am just charging new purchased powerful AA accus for it, will try it with them later.

The GBP and GBC both work on 5V, they have a buck converter that converts the voltage of the batteries to 5V.
One thing you can try to do with your GBC is to replace the 100uf capacitor (bottom right pcb) with a tantalum 6V 1000uf capacitor. That capacitor has a different shape but fits nicely on the pcb.

I don't know if it will make your GBC work with the flash cart but it sure removed all the power noise from GBC speaker.

Alternatively you can use a 470uf 6.3V electrolytic capacitor.

 

[Bonny]

The GBP and GBC both work on 5V, they have a buck converter that converts the voltage of the batteries to 5V.
One thing you can try to do with your GBC is to replace the 100uf capacitor (bottom right pcb) with a tantalum 6V 1000uf capacitor. That capacitor has a different shape but fits nicely on the pcb.

I don't know if it will make your GBC work with the flash cart but it sure removed all the power noise from GBC speaker.

Alternatively you can use a 470uf 6.3V electrolytic capacitor.

Heavens! I'am much too incompetent to even think about such soldering jobs. All my modded GBP/GBC/GBA consoles were made by other people who know what they're doing

I once tried to do a frontlit mod job on 2 GBAs (many many years ago) - I wrecked them both completely

The last soldering job i've succsessfully done was changening the power led of my N64 from the original red to white - I'am so proud of me

But i'll change back to FW4, and will test it in the next days, i also get an new backlit modded GBP next week, we'll see if the EZ Jr. will work with them.

 

[Bonnom]

Heavens! I'am much too incompetent to even think about such soldering jobs. All my modded GBP/GBC/GBA consoles were made by other people who know what they're doing

I once tried to do a frontlit mod job on 2 GBAs (many many years ago) - I wrecked them both completely

The last soldering job i've succsessfully done was changening the power led of my N64 from the original red to white - I'am so proud of me

But i'll change back to FW4, and will test it in the next days, i also get an new backlit modded GBP next week, we'll see if the EZ Jr. will work with them.

The secret to becoming good at soldering is to not use cheap stuff, low quality stuff. Good soldering iron, with good solder and flux will make a massive difference to soldering skills.
Desoldering stuff is generally a lot harder and you need to be very gentle or you're going to rip a soldering pad loose.

I wouldn't recommend desoldering a large smd capacitor if don't have the experience, some people absolutely destroyed their GBC doing it.