Hardware Chargeing Switch with a powerbank

[wurstpistole]

Just make sure you get 2.6 Amps output like the standard switch adapter, that way it's fast enough to charge and play without the charge decreasing (but instead, increasing it).

as I said, 1.5A is enough to not have the charge decreasing while playing. Granted, it only loads VERY slowly (like 1% in 10mins), but you can just play until the powerbank is empty.

 

[Jiehfeng]

as I said, 1.5A is enough to not have the charge decreasing while playing. Granted, it only loads VERY slowly (like 1% in 10mins), but you can just play until the powerbank is empty.

Why go for a slow charge? If you're gonna charge and play in the first place, you might as well have it fast.

 

[Mr. Wizard]

Just make sure you get 2.6 Amps output like the standard switch adapter, that way it's fast enough to charge and play without the charge decreasing (but instead, increasing it).

I'm curious as to where you get your numbers from? I mean it's already been tested, this is not new news.

 

[wurstpistole]

Why go for a slow charge? If you're gonna charge and play in the first place, you might as well have it fast.

Because I already had this powerbank before. Not going to buy a new one. It also has a 2A port, so I could go a bit faster, but 1.5A is enough to play until the powerbank dies.

 

[Jiehfeng]

I'm curious as to where you get your numbers from? I mean it's already been tested, this is not new news.

Well I saw somewhere a while back the AC Adapter output, so I assumed that was the case.

 

[Mr. Wizard]

Because I already had this powerbank before. Not going to buy a new one. It also has a 2A port, so I could go a bit faster, but 1.5A is enough to play until the powerbank dies.

Yes but you need to be tethered to the power pack. Maybe some people don't want that? Maybe some people want to quick charge their Switch where there is no power outlet available? I've seen people ask for the fastest option to charge, your's while being enough for your needs, does match the quick charge criteria.

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Well I saw somewhere a while back the AC Adapter output, so I assumed that was the case.

It's been logically concluded that the extra power the adapter puts out is for powering the logic board in the dock and any accessories that may be attached. For example, charging the pro controller.

 

[YoshiMoshi]

Ok so yeah I checked in a device or not for southwest airlines batteries must be less than 100 Wh. Greater than 100 Wh and less than 160 Wh batteries require operator approval. To avoid that hassle and the time delay of having a member of the free having to show up to approve the power bank, I'm looking for the best power bank to charge my s2itch on the go that is less than 100 Wh. Can u guys please suggest one so I can bring it on plane. I'm looking to keep it under $100. If lithium ion batteries are used than (100 Wh)/(3.7 V) = 27027.027027 mAh. Can u please help me find a power bank as close as possible to this capacity that can output enough current to charge my s2itch as quick as possible while playing it? Thanks for any help!

TSA allows batteries up to 100 Wh without operator approval in the states.

 

[Mr. Wizard]

Ok so yeah I checked in a device or not for southwest airlines batteries must be less than 100 Wh. Greater than 100 Wh and less than 160 Wh batteries require operator approval. To avoid that hassle and the time delay of having a member of the free having to show up to approve the power bank, I'm looking for the best power bank to charge my s2itch on the go that is less than 100 Wh. Can u guys please suggest one so I can bring it on plane. I'm looking to keep it under $100. If lithium ion batteries are used than (100 Wh)/(3.7 V) = 27027.027027 mAh. Can u please help me find a power bank as close as possible to this capacity that can output enough current to charge my s2itch as quick as possible while playing it? Thanks for any help!

TSA allows batteries up to 100 Wh without operator approval in the states.

I believe the packs are rated at 5v not 3.7v.

 

[sarkwalvein]

I believe the packs are rated at 5v not 3.7v.

They are, and that would bring it to 20.000mAH max.

 

[YoshiMoshi]

I belive most are 3.7 V lithium ion batteries with a bost converter to get it to 5 V so u use 3.7 in this calculation I checked a smaller power bank that has the Wh written on it and this worked calculating it this way ei th 3.7 and not 5 to get the Wh written on it and the capacity written on it

 

[sarkwalvein]

I belive most are 3.7 V lithium ion batteries with a body converter to get it to 5 V so u use 3.7 in this calculation I checked a smaller power bank that has the Wh written on it and this worked

But the mAH value they advertise is at 5V in any case, after the converter if one were used.

 

[Mr. Wizard]

I belive most are 3.7 V lithium ion batteries with a bost converter to get it to 5 V so u use 3.7 in this calculation I checked a smaller power bank that has the Wh written on it and this worked calculating it this way ei th 3.7 and not 5 to get the Wh written on it and the capacity written on it

Actually now that I think about it, voltage is irrelevant. They most likely test it using a 1 watt load or 1 amp load.

Also, my LiIon cells have a voltage of:

4.2v - Fully charged
3.3v - Fully discharged
3.6v - Nominal 50% charge for storage (New cells)

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Actually now that I think about it, voltage is irrelevant. They most likely test it using a 1 watt load or 1 amp load.

Also, my LiIon cells have a voltage of:

4.2v - Fully charged
3.3v - Fully discharged
3.6v - Nominal 50% charge for storage (New cells)

Did you check the datasheet to get those specs?
3.3V sounds high for a fully discharged cell. Some electronics may cut off at that voltage but you're losing some capacity by not discharging it to at least 3.1V.

But the mAH value they advertise is at 5V in any case, after the converter if one were used.

I don't think so actually. Knowing the voltage and mAh rating of the battery in the device I'm charging makes it easy to approximate how many charges I should get from a powerbank and those approximations are consistent with what I would get if it was a 3.7V cell @ 12000mAh. If it was actually rated for 12000mAh @ 5V I should have a significantly longer battery life. I haven't done any in-depth testing though, just basing it on my personal experience.

 

[Mr. Wizard]

Did you check the datasheet to get those specs?
3.3V sounds high for a fully discharged cell. Some electronics may cut off at that voltage but you're losing some capacity by not discharging it to at least 3.1V.

I don't think so actually. Knowing the voltage and mAh rating of the battery in the device I'm charging makes it easy to approximate how many charges I should get from a powerbank and those approximations are consistent with what I would get if it was a 3.7V cell @ 12000mAh. If it was actually rated for 12000mAh @ 5V I should have a significantly longer battery life. I haven't done any in-depth testing though, just basing it on my personal experience.

It's recommended to NOT discharge a lithium ion battery below 3.2 volts.

Voltage is irrelevant.

 

[sarkwalvein]

I don't think so actually. Knowing the voltage and mAh rating of the battery in the device I'm charging makes it easy to approximate how many charges I should get from a powerbank and those approximations are consistent with what I would get if it was a 3.7V cell @ 12000mAh. If it was actually rated for 12000mAh @ 5V I should have a significantly longer battery life. I haven't done any in-depth testing though, just basing it on my personal experience.

If that is the case it sounds so much like misleading advertisement, to the point I don't know how this is not banned.
What if you used 6V batteries, or even worse 2V batteries.

Special Offer: Very cheap 20.000mAh *2V batteries power bank!
Pissed off customer: I wonder why this shit lasts only half the time my other powerpacks. /s

 

[Mr. Wizard]

If that is the case it sounds so much like misleading advertisement, to the point I don't know how this is not banned.
What if you used 6V batteries, or even worse 2V batteries.

Special Offer: Very cheap 20.000mAh *2V batteries power bank!
Pissed off customer: I wonder why this shit lasts only half the time my other powerpacks. /s

because capacity and power are different.

because watt-hours and milliamp-hours is a measure of load over time, not power (voltage).

 

[sarkwalvein]

It's recommended to NOT discharge a lithium ion battery below 3.2 volts.

Voltage is irrelevant.

Voltage is relevant.
If you take out a limited I1 current from a battery and then make it go through a power converter, you will have a proportional (to the voltage) lower I2 output current in order to maintain energy (or power) on both sides of the converter, following the energy conservation law.
In short, the amount of energy the battery can hold is measured in mWh, not mAh.
In order to really know the amount of energy, given the fake mAh unit, you need to know the voltage related to it.

What matters in the end is not this fake current measurement, but the ENERGY measurement.

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because capacity and power are different.

because watt-hours and milliamp-hours is a measure of load over time, not power (voltage).

I know. That is why explained it above.

PS: As we are considering the current (and voltage) constant, power and energy are proportional, just a power-time product, no need to integrate here.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

It's recommended to NOT discharge a lithium ion battery below 3.2 volts.

Voltage is irrelevant.

I read you shouldn't discharge them below 2.5V, as that is the lowest voltage they are rated to go. Of course it's best to stay a bit above this, but around 3.0V generally seems to be a safe cutoff voltage, from what I've heard.

If that is the case it sounds so much like misleading advertisement, to the point I don't know how this is not banned.
What if you used 6V batteries, or even worse 2V batteries.

Special Offer: Very cheap 20.000mAh *2V batteries power bank!
Pissed off customer: I wonder why this shit lasts only half the time my other powerpacks. /s

I just checked and my powerbank does actually say 3.7V 12000mAh on it, so I wouldn't call it misleading. If your powerbank for example says 5.0V 20000mAh on it then that's probably what it's rated for. If it just says Output: 5V @ 2.1A (as an example), with "20000mAh" printed somewhere other than directly next to it, then I would assume it's 3.6V or 3.7V 20000mAh, as most batteries are rated for one of those voltages, and the mAh rating is typically just the rating of the battery taken directly from a datasheet. Some batteries go all the way up to 12V and maybe even higher, so unless it states the voltage and mAh rating next to eachother, it's a bit misleading and you can't really be sure.

 

[Mr. Wizard]

Input voltage is only relevant as a reference.



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I read you shouldn't discharge them below 2.5V, as that is the lowest voltage they are rated to go. Of course it's best to stay a bit above this, but around 3.0V generally seems to be a safe cutoff voltage, from what I've heard.

2.5v is where the protection circuit should trip. The battery will typically rebound back to 3.0v or 3.3v using a 2.75v protection, anything lower and you are damaging your batteries.

http://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteryLowVoltage UK.html

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I believe the LM117 has a built in voltage reference of 1.25v so:

R1 = Vref/Iout
Vref = 1.25V so for 500 mA
R1 = V/I = 1.25V / 0.5A = 2.5 Ohm
Power in R1 = I^2 R = 0.5^2 x 2.5 or 0.7 Watt

So you would want to use a 2-5 watt resistor.

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Some circuits can handle 1 amp which will decrease the test time.

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5volt @ 5 watts will draw 1 amp
2.5volts @ 2.5watts will draw 1 amp

If you are measuring in milliamp-hours voltage is irrelevant.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Input voltage is only relevant as a reference.



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2.5v is where the protection circuit should trip. The battery will typically rebound back to 3.0v or 3.3v using a 2.75v protection, anything lower and you are damaging your batteries.

http://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteryLowVoltage UK.html

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I believe the LM117 has a built in voltage reference of 1.25v so:

R1 = Vref/Iout
Vref = 1.25V so for 500 mA
R1 = V/I = 1.25V / 0.5A = 2.5 Ohm
Power in R1 = I^2 R = 0.5^2 x 2.5 or 0.7 Watt

So you would want to use a 2-5 watt resistor.

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Some circuits can handle 1 amp which will decrease the test time.

It does seem according to that that it's safe for them to go down to 2.5V, like I thought. The spec sheets for my batteries also don't mention anything about a voltage at when it's fully discharged, only the discharge cutoff voltage at 2.5V, and 2.5V is also the cutoff voltage used in all their discharge tests. I vape, and one of the e-cigs I had showed the voltage on the display, and it would cut off at 3.2V. My charger also shows the current voltage. It definitely did not jump back up to 3.3V or higher after disuse.
I know of other devices that cut off at 3.1V. Any lower than that is probably pointless though as there's not much juice left by that point.