C1224 shorted

[classiphil]

I have a Wii U here that does not want to power on (just a static red LED), and I want to exclude hardware issues.
Forget C1224
Do we have a full schematic and parts list? (WUP01)

... found even more shorts under the processor... Shoo... I think that will exceed my skills. I have never done voltage injection or similar.

Also Side B full of shorts. Especially the power section close to the cpu. I have 15V and 3.3 in Standby. Any experience on your side?

 

[SDIO]

If there were shorts I would expect red blinking. Are you sure these are really shorts an not just low resistance or capacitors charging?

Static red would also happen if it can't read boot1 from the SLC or the boot1 version doesn't match the version in the seeprom

 

[classiphil]

If there were shorts I would expect red blinking. Are you sure these are really shorts an not just low resistance or capacitors charging?

Static red would also happen if it can't read boot1 from the SLC or the boot1 version doesn't match the version in the seeprom

Wouldn't PTB work then? Just wondering. I have no dead short, actually. When I push the Power or Eject button, the red light stops for a brief moment and comes back on.

Even when pushing the Power button there is no 3.3 V at the SLC. PGOOD rises very shortly. No short on TP138.

Without daughter Boards the PSU shuts off after pushing Power.

 

[classiphil]

Wouldn't PTB work then? Just wondering. I have no dead short, actually. When I push the Power or Eject button, the red light stops for a brief moment and comes back on.

Even when pushing the Power button there is no 3.3 V at the SLC. PGOOD rises very shortly. No short on TP138.

Without daughter Boards the PSU shuts off after pushing Power.

I compared with my known good 01 board. The 15V Board side builds up to OL. On the faulty one just 20 Ohms. I am stuck here.

 

[SDIO]

If the 15V were shorted then you wouldn't get a red LED.

Also 20Ohm could just be stuff starting to consume something. If there was something broken and short the rail with 20ohm that would sink 1A and get pretty hot

 

[classiphil]

Found something, I think. On the broken board, I have a short from the output of the first rail, which "prepares" the voltage for the two bucks around 1V. On the working board, both are OL.

Post automatically merged: Sep 19, 2025

Found it: The MOSFET FDMC 7696 (Q1031) was short. Got it out, and everything seems normal now. Waiting for the replacement part.
Hold your thumbs, please. It was my first desoldering of a MOSFET. Didn't think it would need that much heat.

 

[classiphil]

Works again So a steady red light can also be caused by a shorted MOSFET. (The picture was taken pre-cleaning. No worries.)