Hardware A new computer?

[gifi4]

The only slightly confusing irritating thing for me when we were building my youngest brothers computer was figuring out where all the cables go. If you have a friend or someone you can bring-in to help you plugin the connectors to the right-places it's a breeze.

You might want to look into seeing if you can find a motherboard that supports the new "BIOS" system. UEFI - Unified Extensible Firmware Interface. If you can't, though, no big deal, just throwing this out there. UEFI - Shaping up to replace the traditional BIOS interface in the future. Basically, though, it's just placing a more user-friendly GUI for BIOS navigation of features (etc).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLwHKHqBitc...embedded#at=112 - a video of UEFI in action ~ just thought you'd like to see how it compares to what you're probably used to anyhow.

As far as some additional tips go; I'll just say this since it hasn't been mentioned yet. Do not skimp out on the power supply. It's the most important part of your system; and it should be managed by a name-brand, not an obscure 3rd party PSU.

None of my friends or family really know any of this, can't I just do trial and error for the cables or will that damage something? If so, what do I do?

 

[gifi4]

Anyone?

PS. sorry for the bump...

 

[Originality]

Most motherboards will come with a manual to tell you exactly where to plug in all the little cables. That means the front panel headers (pw_led, pw_swt, speaker, etc) in the bottom right corner, case fans in the white 3-pin headers all over the motherboard, front panel USB in the blue 9-pin headers (usually at the bottom, rarely at the right hand side, rarely are black instead of blue), front panel audio in the black 9-pin header (usually at the lower left side), firewire (if applicable) in the red 9-pin header at the bottom, and finally ATX power on the right side and either a 4, 6 or 8 pin ATX power somewhere near the CPU. That's the motherboard, and all that's left is the easy part - 6 or 8 pin power for the graphics, SATA power for the SATA drives, and sometimes molex power for case fans (if your motherboard does not have enough headers for all of them).

All of that will be mentioned in the manual with pictures to help.

EDIT: Or if you're really worried, I can hold your hand and guide you through it over msn/skype.
EDIT2: Whilst every cable will have a certain place to put it, it's dangerous to just trial and error with the 9-pin headers (USB, audio and FireWire) - they each have a different pin "missing" to help distinguish which one goes in which header. If you plug them in randomly, and with too much force, you could break the pins on the motherboard. Then again, if you just take your time and think about it carefully, it'll become easy to tell which one goes where simply because one of the pins is missing.

 

[gifi4]

I was just thinking to myself, what processor do I want? And I have read through all of this and am curious, what is the current best one that'll allow me to buy all my other parts and this in my budget?

Evo.lve suggested an i5 but I hear there is like an i7 and i9 plus other processors, so what do I get? Also what would your suggestion cost me?

 

[Originality]

Currently there are two "best processors" for desktops. The Core i7-980X (or the 990X which replaces it), and the Core i7-2600K. The 980X has 6 cores and can process 12 threads, whilst the 2600K has 4 cores and can process 8 threads. At stock speeds, the 980X is better, however the 2600K overclocked does better at most tasks than the 980X overclocked.

The difference between the 2600K and 980X is that the 980X costs around 3x as much ($317 for 2600K, ~$1000 for 980X). Also Core i9 does not exist. It's only Core i3, i5 and i7.

Core i5-2500K is the third best processor for desktops. It's quad core but doesn't have hyper-threading, so only processes 4 threads. It costs around $216.

Some are saying that AMD Fusion Bulldozer CPUs will beat Intel in the high-end CPU market, but I've not seen anything to back that up. Around the time Bulldozer comes out, so will the Sandy Bridge E CPUs (using LGA 2011). Until then, the Core i5-2500K or Core i7-2600K are the best choices.

Also remember that I said within your budget, you can get just about anything. That includes a motherboard with dual Xeons. You would never need it, so I don't recommend it.

 

[EJames2100]

What's said above.

However if you have no intentions of overclocking, get the non "k" version, saves a bit of money, whereas getting getting the "k" version gives you the option to overclock in the future.

 

[jlf278]

I had been shopping around for a while to build a new computer, but decided to hold out a little longer. I plopped down $40 for a GT240 GPU. It allows my 5 year old desktop to play starcraft 2, tiding me over for a little while, but now is a definitely a good time to build a custom desktop. Sandy bridge shows excellent bang for the buck, while RAM and HDDs have become quiteaffordable.

Considering your budget, I'd opt for the core i7-2600k as others have suggested. I'd also pick up a coolermaster HAF 922 case, if you like the look. Not sure what motherboard would work best for you, but here's a helpful link that shows all your options:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboard...otherboard.html

G.Skills ripjaw 1600 RAM can be had for under $40 / 4gb stick. WD caviar black or green drives or Samsung Spinpoint. I'd go with a 1-1.5tb WD caviar black and wait to buy a SSD until the next gen of them comes out and cheapens up. You should have no problem keeping to a $1000-$1500 budget excluding GPU, monitor and peripherals.

 

[Originality]

The next gen of SSDs is just around the corner, with the SandForce 2 controllers. There's already been previews of the OCZ Vertex 3 beating the entire market in read/write speeds, and being the first device to make use of the full 6Gbs SATA III offered in Sandy Bridge motherboards (every other SATA III controller is limited to 5Gbs due to the dependance on PCIe).

 

[gifi4]

So would this be considered a good build?

Internal HDD
Case
RAM
SSD
GPU
PSU
CPU
Motherboard

Thinking of downgrading the motherboard though, I doubt I'll use up all it's features, as seen by what I'm getting.

So is this good or bad? Am I missing anything? Ignore the prices, I plan on shopping around to get the best prices.

 

[Originality]

I would swap the HDD for a Samsung Spinpoint F3 or a Western Digital Caviar Black version - they make better HDDs than Hitachi. I would also drop the SSD (which has SandForce 1200) until SandForce 2000 SSDs are out (like the OCZ Vertex 3 I mentioned, which is due for release on April 1st, according to Scan.co.uk).

Aside from that it looks very good. For the benefit of those who don't want to click multiple links to find out your build: i7-2600K with Maximux IV Extreme, 8GB of RAM, 750W XFX PSU, HD6970 and a CoolerMaster HAF 942 case. The only only thing that's missing is a third party Heatsink for the CPU. Thermaltake Frio is rated the best HSF, although it uses a back-mount so you'll have to install it on the motherboard before putting the motherboard inside the case.

One last point to think about, consider getting the GTX 570 or 580 instead of the HD 6970. Both outperform the HD 6970, and nVidia drivers are famously better than AMD drivers. Then again, if you're only using a 20" or less monitor, you won't see any difference. You've not mentioned what monitor you have/are going to get, and that's one of the 3 most important factors in deciding what graphics card to get (monitor size, type of games played, and budget - in that order).

...Ok, that's 2 last points - graphics and monitor, but anyway...
EDIT: Should probably also add - get a genuine copy of Windows 7. If you're going to spend so much money on a powerful computer, you can't compromise it by using a pirated version of Windows - that's just wrong.

 

[shadowkillerdrag]

err if possible i would point u to newegg.com if u can buy from there

because that i7 2600k is expensive as hell >< 400 vs 330 on newegg

EDIT: my bad its in AUD >< sorry about that

 

[gifi4]

I would swap the HDD for a Samsung Spinpoint F3 or a Western Digital Caviar Black version - they make better HDDs than Hitachi. I would also drop the SSD (which has SandForce 1200) until SandForce 2000 SSDs are out (like the OCZ Vertex 3 I mentioned, which is due for release on April 1st, according to Scan.co.uk).

Aside from that it looks very good. For the benefit of those who don't want to click multiple links to find out your build: i7-2600K with Maximux IV Extreme, 8GB of RAM, 750W XFX PSU, HD6970 and a CoolerMaster HAF 942 case. The only only thing that's missing is a third party Heatsink for the CPU. Thermaltake Frio is rated the best HSF, although it uses a back-mount so you'll have to install it on the motherboard before putting the motherboard inside the case.

One last point to think about, consider getting the GTX 570 or 580 instead of the HD 6970. Both outperform the HD 6970, and nVidia drivers are famously better than AMD drivers. Then again, if you're only using a 20" or less monitor, you won't see any difference. You've not mentioned what monitor you have/are going to get, and that's one of the 3 most important factors in deciding what graphics card to get (monitor size, type of games played, and budget - in that order).

...Ok, that's 2 last points - graphics and monitor, but anyway...
EDIT: Should probably also add - get a genuine copy of Windows 7. If you're going to spend so much money on a powerful computer, you can't compromise it by using a pirated version of Windows - that's just wrong.

Ok, so what brand do you recommend for the graphics card?
I plan on getting a genuine copy of Windows 7 but I'll stick with XP Professional until I get the computer up and running.

 

[Originality]

Branding on graphics cards isn't that important. Each company takes the stock model and implements their own power phasing, ram and cooling systems. They also tend to provide models with minor factory over clocks to get better speeds out of them, at a premium. Personally I look at the cooling first to see if it works with my case/PSU setup to preempt any problems, then look at the reviews to see if people have found any flaws with them. Over clocks are useful, but not that important in my opinion.

 

[Deleted User]

Yeah as Originality pointed out graphics card brand isn't too much. Just pick the card that you like the best or have researched into (read: reviews). Keep in mind that noise is a factor; as toms hardware, for example have suggested that the Radeon 6990 (fastest graphics card) is loud as hell, whereas the slower GTX 590 is slower, but quiet as a mouse.

Deciding whether you're going to over-clock the CPU/GPU will be influential as well; you'll have to decide, then; whether you're going to settle for a stock heatsink or an aftermarket heatsink (capable of more efficient, better heat dissipation). Processor wise definitely go with an i5-2500k or i7-2600k they'll easily last you 5-10 years in my opinion.

RAM isn't much of a limiting factor these days, 4GB is fairly standard, but it's not unusual to have 8GB in a system, more than 8 though, is a waste of cash; unless you're doing something that benefits having all its program-instructions stored in RAM to speed up the operations and the time in which they run to completion. (Nothing an average user is really capable of).

Graphics wise: Again, totally depends on your resolution and whether you want to play games on higher resolutions at the most enthusiast settings; or you're comfortable running things at more modest settings like 1280x720, or 1440x900. You could easily spend nearly a 3rd of your budget on a graphics card alone. $2500 is a HUGE budget.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-...cking,2876.html
^ - This is what Tom's Hardware came up with for a $2000 budget performance PC.
(Benchmarks!)

Personally, I woudn't skimp on the motherboard since it's the piece that basically contributes to the overall foundation of the computer; it's the most important hardware component besides the power supply; and also provides the upgradability of your system.

To be honest, once you build your PC, I don't think you'll ever settle for a pre-made system again.

 

[gifi4]

Yeah as Originality pointed out graphics card brand isn't too much. Just pick the card that you like the best or have researched into (read: reviews). Keep in mind that noise is a factor; as toms hardware, for example have suggested that the Radeon 6990 (fastest graphics card) is loud as hell, whereas the slower GTX 590 is slower, but quiet as a mouse.

Deciding whether you're going to over-clock the CPU/GPU will be influential as well; you'll have to decide, then; whether you're going to settle for a stock heatsink or an aftermarket heatsink (capable of more efficient, better heat dissipation). Processor wise definitely go with an i5-2500k or i7-2600k they'll easily last you 5-10 years in my opinion.

RAM isn't much of a limiting factor these days, 4GB is fairly standard, but it's not unusual to have 8GB in a system, more than 8 though, is a waste of cash; unless you're doing something that benefits having all its program-instructions stored in RAM to speed up the operations and the time in which they run to completion. (Nothing an average user is really capable of).

Graphics wise: Again, totally depends on your resolution and whether you want to play games on higher resolutions at the most enthusiast settings; or you're comfortable running things at more modest settings like 1280x720, or 1440x900. You could easily spend nearly a 3rd of your budget on a graphics card alone. $2500 is a HUGE budget.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-...cking,2876.html
^ - This is what Tom's Hardware came up with for a $2000 budget performance PC.
(Benchmarks!)

Personally, I woudn't skimp on the motherboard since it's the piece that basically contributes to the overall foundation of the computer; it's the most important hardware component besides the power supply; and also provides the upgradability of your system.

To be honest, once you build your PC, I don't think you'll ever settle for a pre-made system again.

Nice suggestions but don't bother with the pricing, the $2000 build from tomshardware will probably be around $2600+ in AUD, even though the AUS dollar is more than the US dollar.

I can just change the cooler over if I decide to overclock, can't I?
I was just thinking, if I get an SSD, where does it plug into on the motherboard? Does it go in one of the SATA ports? How many SATA ports do I need (overall) ?

 

[Originality]

SSDs use SATA ports. SandForce 2000 SSDs (which should be out from tomorrow onwards) will be backwards compatible with SATA II, but will only get full speed with SATA III ports (on a Sandy Bridge motherboard). SATA III ports will usually have a different colour to SATA II ports, but they use the same cable anyway. Just plug in the SSD like you would a HDD or DVD drive.

I currently use 4 SATA ports myself. 2 are used by 2x1TB HDDs, one by the DVD drive, and one by the eSATA port at the front of my computer. Most motherboards will provide 6-10 SATA ports, and most people don't have a need for any more than 2 (HDD and DVD).

 

[overslept]

Whaaaat? $2500? Here's a build that I recently built:

Thermalright Silver Arrow
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe Rev. 3.0 w/ B3 Stepping
2x ASUS DirectCU 6870
i7-2600k
NZXT Tempest Evo
Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200rp/m
Windows 7 Professional OEM
Samsung Blu-Ray Reader DVD writer combo
G.Skill Ripjaws X 8gb 1600mhz
Corsair modular 850w 80+ Silver Certified (actually gold, check this out)
Arctic MX-4
Sony Internal Card Reader/Writer
Logitech C910 Webcam

Now, if I had $2500... I would have thrown in an HT Omega Claro Plus+ and some Audioengine A5s (or Corsair's new SP2500).

But that's just me.

 

[Originality]

Remember that USD doesn't translate directly into AUD. Think of it more as $2000 USD budget.

On the other hand, do you really need two mid-ranged graphics cards in CrossFire?

 

[overslept]

Remember that USD doesn't translate directly into AUD. Think of it more as $2000 USD budget.

On the other hand, do you really need two mid-ranged graphics cards in CrossFire?

For what I'm doing, yes. Two 6950s is overkill, and don't even get me started on 6990 or GTX 590.

 

[Deleted User]

Yeah, but once you see the speed of the i7-2600k, I doubt you'll really need to overclock it. But yeah, you should be able to add in a better heatsink later should you decide to OC on several years.