I assume your referring to "uk3"in the photo? Hour did you come up with the tps61163a number?
Hardware Two dead mainboards - same symptoms
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I searched TI's site and they had a 9 pin BGA package that matched. I then worked through the datasheet and the reference design is identical to the one used in the Switch with all the pads in the same place. So it's still not 100% confirmed, but feels right. I did check Maxim, but they don't have any 9-pin BGA backlight driver ICs....
#Aliexpress US $5.80 | Repairing small IC chip for NS for nintend switch
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dYQkkfv
hey @SheriffBuck !
I read your posts and I've got two questions:
* I checked the TI TPS61163A on a working and a faulty port and I get 4,1V with the AC adapter plugged in. Am I doing/checking something wrong?
* Is there another way to check if the STD-MUA9 Tuning Fork Crystal running at 32.768kHz is working or not? I mean without an oscilloscope? Maybe by diode values?
thanks!
I read your posts and I've got two questions:
* I checked the TI TPS61163A on a working and a faulty port and I get 4,1V with the AC adapter plugged in. Am I doing/checking something wrong?
* Is there another way to check if the STD-MUA9 Tuning Fork Crystal running at 32.768kHz is working or not? I mean without an oscilloscope? Maybe by diode values?
thanks!
What I have found is that if no lcd is hooked up it will remain at 4volts. Are you testing for voltage with the lcd attached?
I've tested the crystal with it still installed by checking for continuity to ground on the leads on either side. I don't remember exactly but I believe I was getting a fluctuation between 2.7k -3k ohms. I believe if it is fluctuating/oscillating it's working.
@SheriffBuck is sharper than I and probably has a more technical thoughtful response, but this is what I've found
Last edited by Ttm3,
How do you measure these parts when LCD and backlight flex cables are connected? I did it without LCD flex connected, but I'll try it with it attached, thanks!
So you checked the crystal with a multimeter, but in which mode ohm, diode,..? Sorry but I didn't get the description. I don't know what I need to do to check if it's fluctuation, thanks.
So you checked the crystal with a multimeter, but in which mode ohm, diode,..? Sorry but I didn't get the description. I don't know what I need to do to check if it's fluctuation, thanks.
I have an extra lcd for testing so I can plug it in flipped over. Alternatively if you have fine point tips for your meter you can test for voltage right at the connector. Just don't bridge any pins.
On the crystal I use ohms
I did my tests with the digitiser connected. Only then do you get the higher 17v driving the LED backlight. Without it connected, you should get around 4v.
I use a scope to test the crystal. I'm not experienced enough to know how else to test it without one.
I'd recommend one of these https://store.digilentinc.com/openscope-mz-open-source-all-in-one-instrumentation/
I'm sure there are others, but that's what I've used.
Hello, you seem like you know a lot about Nintendo switch mainboard !
Please could you help me ? My Nintendo switch won't charge, won't power on, tried different adapter, removed the battery, forced shut down etc... I tried all known solutions, i think it's a hardware problem and some components need to be replaced !
Please could you help me ? My Nintendo switch won't charge, won't power on, tried different adapter, removed the battery, forced shut down etc... I tried all known solutions, i think it's a hardware problem and some components need to be replaced !
OK. So this took a while, not helped by the first replacement chip pinging off my tweezers never to be found again. This thing is tiny! Second replacement arrived today (UK eBay seller) and I've just fitted it.
I'm pleased to report that the backlight is now operational! So I can confirm the TI TPS61163A works as a fit/form/function replacement! I probably need to do some side-by-side checks to confirm consistency of brightness, but it looks right at first glance.
Hope this helps the community.
SheriffB
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Yes. Sounds like a hardware issue. It could be the USB Type-C socket, ESD protections on the CC lines, the M92T chip or even a dead battery. If your battery is totally flat, the M92T goes into dead battery recovery mode and works in conjunction with the charging chip to get the battery to a level that would support boot. How comfortable are you with opening it up and taking some measurements with a multimeter?
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I can confirm it works.
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On the LCD backlight ribbon, pin 1 is not connected, pin 2 and 4 are the returns and pin 3 delivers +17v DC to drive the LED backlight. This is the pin that usually burns out when the inside of the Switch gets wet.....
Thank you, i had to take it to a repair guy, he replaced the usb c connector and a circuit pi3usb
Quick update to close off Board 2. I gave it an ultrasonic bath and fitted an SX Core and was able to boot OFW which suggests I had a fuse issue. I've updated the OS to 10.4 and it is now booting on its own with SX Core removed... good result all round.
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Hello!
I have a Lite MB with the exact problem you have but I have swapped the IC twice using a Switch V1 and, for last, a Lite (plus the diode from the same Lite, which was purple screened) and the backlight is not coming back.
I have tested the motherboard in another known good full shell with the same error and when I moved the "good" motherboard from that known good console to the full shell of the faulty one the screen turns on perfectly.
So we know the flat cable and the screen itself is fine on the faulty console but I cannot seem to find the root cause for the error.
The flat cable connector seems to be fine. A little bit yellowed due to the heat but working perfectly fine...
Would you, please, mind giving me any advises?
OK. I had something similar and it turned out to be a damaged pad under the FPC connector. Check the connector for any signs of discolouration mid way across. A short on the backlight driver line can cause the pin to heat up and sometimes lose connection to the board or in my case, short to the ground plane a layer below.
A sure fire test with it all connected up and battery disconnected, is to test the pins on the backlight FPC for continuity through to the backlight IC and for shorts to ground. There are convenient test pads just above the IC with everything you need. Check the backlight ribbon as I remember that one of the pins is not connected or doubled up. You'll need some fine probe tips, a steady hand and a microscope. You can compare with your known working test Lite for comparison.
If you find an broken line, for an easy fix, you can use enameled jumper wire to run from the test pads on the IC under the battery and across to the sister board.
Good luck. Sheriff.
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So I've had a few boards that are perfectly fine otherwise, but only get to RCM mode as seen on a Linux machine with lsusb. I can't inject any payload and can't get them to boot normally, my conclusion is busted EMMC but maybe you guys have a different idea? All the main chips are fine and they typically only pull 0.5a on 15v enough to charge
Last edited by RavetcoFX,
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