hmmm, i can't find anythink in r/switchhacks
but i found it in switchhaxing
is that from you?
Hacking The 15 dollar chinese dongle experience
- Thread starter kumikochan
- Start date
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but i found it in switchhaxing
is that from you?
No thats not mine https://www.reddit.com/r/SwitchHack...load_injector_arrived_from/e513hus/?context=3
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Ok so update. I've fixed it, in a way, I held the reset button onto the board and double clicked it and it worked, went purple, installed the drivers.
The program still wouldn't start so I uninstalled the driver for com1 in device manager and it started!
The ns-installer now shows as a COM3 USB device in device manger, in the updater program it only lets me pickl COM3 (which is the right one) but when I try to change it to COM3 in it, it goes unresponsive. What a ballache all this is!
[QUOTE="iN5OMANiAC, post: 8248694, member: 462905"Ok so update. I've fixed it, in a way, I held the reset button onto the board and double clicked it and it worked, went purple, installed the drivers.
The program still wouldn't start so I uninstalled the driver for com1 in device manager and it started!
The ns-installer now shows as a COM3 USB device in device manger, in the updater program it only lets me pickl COM3 (which is the right one) but when I try to change it to COM3 in it, it goes unresponsive. What a ballache all this is![/QUOTE]
Did you manage to manually install the driver? I had trouble at first because I couldnt automatically install and I had to disable signature verification in windows for manual install, after that it let me install the driver properly and it worked from there. I just restarted windows to re-enable signature verification.
Maybe completely remove the drivers and program, them install the program fresh and follow the guide for manual install after disabling signature verification. See if that helps at all.
The program still wouldn't start so I uninstalled the driver for com1 in device manager and it started!
The ns-installer now shows as a COM3 USB device in device manger, in the updater program it only lets me pickl COM3 (which is the right one) but when I try to change it to COM3 in it, it goes unresponsive. What a ballache all this is![/QUOTE]
Did you manage to manually install the driver? I had trouble at first because I couldnt automatically install and I had to disable signature verification in windows for manual install, after that it let me install the driver properly and it worked from there. I just restarted windows to re-enable signature verification.
Maybe completely remove the drivers and program, them install the program fresh and follow the guide for manual install after disabling signature verification. See if that helps at all.
Final post on the nmatter, I've uninstalled the device, (COM3) I've uninstalled the other COM1 port, and resinstalled the ns-atmosphere, it installs fine, then I use the supplied program and it crashes every single time I choose the COM3.
Did you manage to manually install the driver? I had trouble at first because I couldnt automatically install and I had to disable signature verification in windows for manual install, after that it let me install the driver properly and it worked from there. I just restarted windows to re-enable signature verification.
Maybe completely remove the drivers and program, them install the program fresh and follow the guide for manual install after disabling signature verification. See if that helps at all.[/QUOTE]
The driver installed fine once I could get it into USB mode, I deleted it anyway and did as you suggested, reinstalled it using no Digital signature, but its just the same, the atmosphere programmer goes non responsive the second I press the COM3, I've even tried changing the COM number but to no avail
Did you manage to manually install the driver? I had trouble at first because I couldnt automatically install and I had to disable signature verification in windows for manual install, after that it let me install the driver properly and it worked from there. I just restarted windows to re-enable signature verification.
Maybe completely remove the drivers and program, them install the program fresh and follow the guide for manual install after disabling signature verification. See if that helps at all.[/QUOTE]
The driver installed fine once I could get it into USB mode, I deleted it anyway and did as you suggested, reinstalled it using no Digital signature, but its just the same, the atmosphere programmer goes non responsive the second I press the COM3, I've even tried changing the COM number but to no avail
That is odd, I would say try running as admin but you probably already tried that. For me it worked straight away after I managed to get the driver installed. I clicked COM3 and grabbed my payload.
Sorry to hear you have trouble, I'd say message the seller who bought it from and tell them the situation. If they can't help at all then you can at least dispute for a refund.
Oh and maybe try it on a different computer if you have access to one.
They dont appear to speak ENglish, or they're just very rude. Does yours show in device manager as NS-ATMOSPHERE (COM3) as per the instructions?
Because mine just shows as USB serial device (COM3)
Mine does show as NS-ATMOSPHERE (COM3). I also realised that any time you disconnect and reconnect it from the pc it won't be detected at all until you double tap the rest button again.
I don't think it's possible for it to show up without being switch on, but for the sake of stupid questions, you do have the switch set to "on" after you plug it into usb right?
And are you using usb 3.0 ports? I had bother with it being recognised the first time and figured it might have also been the ports so I switched it to a usb 2.0 and it worked after that.
It does work in my usb 3.0 ports now after getting it to work the first time, but it shows as COM4 and COM5 in my two 3.0 ports, but it shows COM3 for both my usb 2.0 ports. So I'm just thinking maybe the port has something to do with it too.
Sorry if none of this is helpful, I'm just shooting in the dark because I can't duplicate the issue even if I uninstall my drivers and start over.
(Oh also it was being funny while I had my phone conencted to my pc just now, maybe try removing any other usb devices that aren't your mouse/keyboard)
Last edited by Rasa39,
You could always try to do it yourself if you have soldering skills. But sure sucks for you. Not a fun experience indeed. Best to ask a refund or try your luck soldering it
I've managed to get the mother fucker working, I had to turn it off, turn it back on, put it back into USB (no easy task with a tiny broken reset switch) and it worked. Can finally use it! What a waste of a couple of hours! Still, it's working now, of a fashion, I still want a replacement as it was broke when it arrived and still isnt functioning as it should with the reset button. If you look at my picture in the reddit link compared to the other posted, theres no solder on mine it seems. Anyway, thanks for your help
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Have you seen the size of it? I'd have to be a heart surgeon to solder that ha, I can hold the reset button on the board and press it and it works butits extremely fiddly and its bound to get lost at some point, thankfully you're never really going to need the reset button, maybe once Atmosphere comes out, but I'll likely be sticking with SX OS anyway unless something in Atmosphere is amazing.
Last edited by iN5OMANiAC,
Yeah try to get a replacement. I'll contact the seller itself since i told him i posted a thread about his device so he knows he got a lot more sales thanks to me wich he also said. So maybe i can squeeze a new one out of it for you without you having to send it back. Who knows, it might work
Thank, I;d accept a partial refund as it partially works and I dont need two, I'll see what he says, Im certainly not sending this one back I've spent enough time messing about
Yeah but glad you got it to work out. Luckily the payload doesn't have to be changed constantly xp
I'm glad to hear you got it working, thankfully you shouldn't need to use the reset button much depending on how often you want to update/switch payloads.
I'd probably say you could more than likely get a partial refund for it, a few extra quid back would soften the blow from a faulty reset button I would imagine
I'm no expert with using glue guns but some people use them to glue all sorts of electronics together.
So I don't know if it would work but what if you get the switch in a position where it does work, then glue it down with hot glue? I've seen people use that type of glue in place of solder before, dunno how well it works myself though.
The points don't look too bad, nice and away from the other joints, even has through hole mounts to keep the switch in place. But if you aren't confident in your soldering ability then I can see why it seems like a tricky task to take on.
I personally would just solder it. Looks big enough to solder and i'm experienced with soldering anyway
I'm glad to hear you got it working, thankfully you shouldn't need to use the reset button much depending on how often you want to update/switch payloads.
I'd probably say you could more than likely get a partial refund for it, a few extra quid back would soften the blow from a faulty reset button I would imagine
I'm no expert with using glue guns but some people use them to glue all sorts of electronics together.
So I don't know if it would work but what if you get the switch in a position where it does work, then glue it down with hot glue? I've seen people use that type of glue in place of solder before, dunno how well it works myself though.
The points don't look too bad, nice and away from the other the other joints, even has through hole mounts to keep the switch in place. But if you aren't confident in your soldering ability then I can see why it seems like a tricky task to take on.
Its ridiculously small, I tried soldering an Xbox chip once and that was huge and I made a mess of it, theres no chance. And holding down that reset button in the exact right spot then gluiing it, I'd just mess it up. I'll only be using it for emergencies like if I take it to a frineds and FBA crashes, I'm not too bothered now but I still think I should get a partial refund as a matter of principle and the time I've wasted, its not the sellers fault of course but SOMEONE MUST PAY FOR THISSSS!!!
Yeah wouldn't try if you had a tough time dealing with that. But seeing I have multiple soldering irons for small or big solder points it ain't that difficult
Yeah but if you can get one of those thin tips you could probably just reflow the solder because it looks like there is plenty already on the joint. Maybe the switches are put on my human workers and one of them just forgot to melt the joint together. I'd say try for your partial refund, but see if you've got a friend or someone who can use an iron to put a bit of pressure on the joint to melt the solder and bond it to the switch.
Seeing from the pictures Rasa39 posted it does seem to be his/her was soldered so i'm hoping it's not going to be an issue with other orders seeing Rasa39's was soldered to the board. But if not, it doesn't seem to be to hard to solder it yourself wich is a pain in the ass to do when you bought something and want it working immediately but yeah that's the general gist of it
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Ps I just got mine in the mail
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like a 250 dollar kit back when DDR4 was Intel only
