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Proof: Mine is working just fine with bridged pads (with magnet wire).
Might have happened to few unlucky people, but from what I read, everyone figured it out later on.
Last edited by Kubas_inko,
Why would anyone want to make that permanent? I don't get it. It's only needed for starting the exploit. And for that you need a PC connected via USB. It's not like that really helps getting into cfw faster.
Well, I think it's tin. I've been trying soldering things on a board I have left at home... I found it kinda hard
@cmsj thanks a lot man... I'll see the pins and everything, then I'll decide what to do. I'd love to solder but I'm not the best at this! Also from what I read from your message you did not use wire. Just the iron (which iron did you use?) and a quick drag. Maybe I'll try that way too.
Last edited by phn,
If what you're reading there is: "Nintendo can't detect if you launched Linux using this exploit" then you're reading it right.
If what you're reading is instead "Nintendo can't detect if you're running their own OS with a joycon with a shorted pin" I feel I should make it clear that is not what that tweet says.
another Tiny solder is born! O.O!if it is first time soldering, remove the whole board from the joycon disconnect and everything you can (to get enough space).
This might help you a bit.
I think I roll the best joints in my town
But I think as you do. I tried soldering on a board I had in my house this afternoon and I saw it was not as easy as I thought, plus the size of the joycon...
Well, I think it's tin. I've been trying soldering things on a board I have left at home... I found it kinda hard
@cmsj thanks a lot man... I'll see the pins and everything, then I'll decide what to do. I'd love to solder but I'm not the best at this! Also from what I read from your message you did not use wire. Just the iron (which iron did you use?) and a quick drag. Maybe I'll try that way too.
I use a Weller SP40NKUK - it's not the best iron in the world, but it comes with a couple of different tip types, including a point one, which is what I used for the joycon mod.
Just try to remember that solder melts very easily when the iron is up to temperature, so be as gentle as you can, you never need to press hard to get it to melt, and the quicker you're done, the lower the chances of heat damage on other components
I didn't use a wire, but I did use some extra solder. The two pins are so close on the rail mod that there's no real need for wire, just enough extra solder to bridge the two pins together.
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I think I roll the best joints in my town
But I think as you do. I tried soldering on a board I had in my house this afternoon and I saw it was not as easy as I thought, plus the size of the joycon...
So this is why I'm suggesting people go for the solder points on the rail itself. It's an easy solder job and in the worst case you just need to buy a replacement rail, which is like $10 on eBay.
I tried the pin bending and I am not at all convinced it's a good idea. The pins are hard to bend, harder to get to stay in a position you want, and are likely to ruin the pins inside the Switch.
The most professional option would definitely be to solder a little wire between the relevant points on the joycon's motherboard, but that is a much more complex and risky job than the rail points IMHO.
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I'm uploading a video to YouTube of my Fusee Gelee modified joycon happily showing off all of its buttons working, wirelessly. I'm too new to the forum to post a link though, so I'll have to obfuscate the URL somehow.
Agreed, I think it's completely reasonable and sensible to assume that Nintendo could trivially add a check in a future firmware (or maybe it's already in 5.0, who knows!) to see if the unused Tegra home button is being pressed all the time. This is a good argument against a permanent mod to your joycon. Personally I'm not bothered because I'm not going to update this switch past 3.0.2 until the homebrew world is properly spun up, and I ordered a spare right joycon anyway
I think it's very likely that people will start selling little temporary pin mods like the 3d printed thing, very soon, so if you're at all worried about modding a joycon, or sticking something inside your switches side rail slot, or getting your nintendo account banned, just wait. It's not like there's very much you can do with a hacked Switch at the moment anyway (unless you enjoy working on semi-broken Linux installs, which is why I'm doing it
Last edited by cmsj,
It says you quoted my post. If you didn't (which it seems you didn't), check two posts above yours. They confirmed that Ninty can't detect it, as I originally said.Agreed, I think it's completely reasonable and sensible to assume that Nintendo could trivially add a check in a future firmware (or maybe it's already in 5.0, who knows!) to see if the unused Tegra home button is being pressed all the time. This is a good argument against a permanent mod to your joycon. Personally I'm not bothered because I'm not going to update this switch past 3.0.2 until the homebrew world is properly spun up, and I ordered a spare right joycon anyway
Send me the Link via Pn and i Post it for you.
If this doesn't work, I will: youtu . be / xqKRgHylACY
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Yeah, this is a good point. If you have a flux pen, a few dabs around the site will help with the soldering, and to clean it off after, some alcohol wipes are good. I should have done that really, but my flux pen had dried out
And do they work on tablet mode? Some people claims they stop working on tablet mode and only bluetooth works.I use a Weller SP40NKUK - it's not the best iron in the world, but it comes with a couple of different tip types, including a point one, which is what I used for the joycon mod.
Just try to remember that solder melts very easily when the iron is up to temperature, so be as gentle as you can, you never need to press hard to get it to melt, and the quicker you're done, the lower the chances of heat damage on other components
I didn't use a wire, but I did use some extra solder. The two pins are so close on the rail mod that there's no real need for wire, just enough extra solder to bridge the two pins together.
--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------
So this is why I'm suggesting people go for the solder points on the rail itself. It's an easy solder job and in the worst case you just need to buy a replacement rail, which is like $10 on eBay.
I tried the pin bending and I am not at all convinced it's a good idea. The pins are hard to bend, harder to get to stay in a position you want, and are likely to ruin the pins inside the Switch.
The most professional option would definitely be to solder a little wire between the relevant points on the joycon's motherboard, but that is a much more complex and risky job than the rail points IMHO.
--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------
I'm uploading a video to YouTube of my Fusee Gelee modified joycon happily showing off all of its buttons working, wirelessly. I'm too new to the forum to post a link though, so I'll have to obfuscate the URL somehow.
- No one is chatting at the moment.
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SylverReZ:
You can make a post on the DS forum about your findings, and they'll do their best to respond. They have a GBAtemp account here, you know. -
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Materia_tofu:
oh ye i made a post i did forget they had an account i prob shouldve tagged them in the post+1
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BakerMan:
Update on my brother: He's home now, tired and hungry, obviously, but other than that, seems to be doing fine.+2 -
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BakerMan:
Well, from what I've heard from my parents, he had a seizure last night, perhaps an epileptic episode, fucking died, had a near death experience, my dad called the paramedics, they showed up, took him to the hospital, and he woke up covered in tubes, and started complaining.
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