GCN Is it broken? Can I still resolder the Modchip?

Apache Thunder · Feb 22, 2018

Oh yeah also, get soldering wick when you can. It can help with removing things and cleaning up solder pads (if there isn't enough solder for it to work, you typically add solder to the pad/joint to help the wick pick it up). There's also vacuum pumps but even if you have one, solder wick is still useful for cleaning up things after using a vacuum pump. Solder flux is also important to have to. That helps with soldering to small pads and keeping solder from spreading too far from an area which can happen with small SMD style PCBs where things are closer together.

Der_Blockbuster · Feb 22, 2018

Apache Thunder said:
Oh yeah also, get soldering wick when you can. It can help with removing things and cleaning up solder pads (if there isn't enough solder for it to work, you typically add solder to the pad/joint to help the wick pick it up). There's also vacuum pumps but even if you have one, solder wick is still useful for cleaning up things after using a vacuum pump. Solder flux is also important to have to. That helps with soldering to small pads and keeping solder from spreading too far from an area which can happen with small SMD style PCBs where things are closer together.

Yeah I'll defintely get some flux. The main problem for me, was that the Cable didnt want to go in to the solder. And the solder was not willing to go anywhere. It kept sticking on the Soldering Iron. Idk if Im stupid but solder wick doesnt work for me. I press it down but it doesnt really work that well...

Apache Thunder · Feb 22, 2018

Der_Blockbuster said:
Yeah I'll defintely get some flux. The main problem for me, was that the Cable didnt want to go in to the solder. And the solder was not willing to go anywhere. It kept sticking on the Soldering Iron. Idk if Im stupid but solder wick doesnt work for me. I press it down but it doesnt really work that well...

You either used some bad solder wick or the soldering iron tip was crappy. I think you have to have the tip "tinned" so that the solder doesn't stick to it I think?. (tinned as in, having solder on the tip prior to soldering something) A shitty iron tip causes the solder to not want to attach to your wire/pad as well. I think if the solder doesn't spred out on the tip when you tin it means it's a bad tip and the solder will stick it it more.

I have trouble with that sometimes as well. I think the flux can help pull the solder off the tip and to where you are trying to put it. So that may also help with that.

It helps to have solder on the iron tip already. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to remove the solder from the tip completely when done though. Either way though I do know you have be careful not to scratch your soldering iron tips. That can cause problems and a tip is ruined if it gets too scratched up.

How have you been using the solder wick? From what I seen you put a clean section of it on top of the area you want to clean, then put your iron tip directly on top of the wick covering that. Soldering iron being too hot could perhaps cause issues whit this? Also from what I've seen you sometimes have to add more solder to the area you are using it on else it may not clean it up effectively.

It may help you to look up some videos on the matter. My knowledge on the matter is only a tiny bit further then where you are right now.

The Real Jdbye · Feb 22, 2018

Apache Thunder said:
The hot glue...was uneeded...That via just connects to a test point pad of sorts. Unless you planned to reinstall a mod chip, it was pretty much fine as it was initially when you removed the mod chip.

That's a dead end trace. It leads to a point that isn't used. The via isn't damaged so that trace hasn't been damaged to the point of shorting to the ground plane or anything. There really wasn't a need for you to attempt fixing it any further. Consider yourself lucky. I have a cheap soldering iron too, but I at least tried to get one with an adjuster on it for heat. Not sure how accurate it is, but it is useful for if I need a lower temp for sensitive things.

Judging by the quality of that soldering I'd say he did need the hot glue

Wait, if it's a dead end, why does the chip need it?

Der_Blockbuster said:
Well If someone cares, I fixed it ! XD
Now everything is working and looking good. I just put a huge glob of hotglue over it so this will endure the next 100 years.
View attachment 115220
View attachment 115221
Thanks to everyone who helped me ♥

That looks like a lot of cold joints, your wire is too thick, there's too much solder and you should have used solid core wire as it's easier to solder (or at least twisted the wire tightly so the strands don't separate like that), to be honest it looks like a mess.
But if it works and you hot glued it enough that it doesn't come off easily I guess that's all that matters.

Apache Thunder said:
Oh yeah also, get soldering wick when you can. It can help with removing things and cleaning up solder pads (if there isn't enough solder for it to work, you typically add solder to the pad/joint to help the wick pick it up). There's also vacuum pumps but even if you have one, solder wick is still useful for cleaning up things after using a vacuum pump. Solder flux is also important to have to. That helps with soldering to small pads and keeping solder from spreading too far from an area which can happen with small SMD style PCBs where things are closer together.

Also, from what I hear solder pumps are harder to use, plus they can actually damage small components because of the force involved.

Der_Blockbuster said:
Yeah I'll defintely get some flux. The main problem for me, was that the Cable didnt want to go in to the solder. And the solder was not willing to go anywhere. It kept sticking on the Soldering Iron. Idk if Im stupid but solder wick doesnt work for me. I press it down but it doesnt really work that well...

I think you would have had a much easier time with thin solid core wire like what's normally used for console modding, that wire is completely mismatched for the job

You should use a thicker tip when using solder wick, put the solder wick on top of what you want to remove and put the soldering iron on that. You need a thicker tip because it needs to have enough thermal mass to heat up both the wick and the solder. You might also need a somewhat higher temperature so the heat reaches the solder.

Apache Thunder · Feb 22, 2018

The Real Jdbye said:
Judging by the quality of that soldering I'd say he did need the hot glue

Wait, if it's a dead end, why does the chip need it?

That looks like a lot of cold joints, your wire is too thick, there's too much solder and you should have used solid core wire as it's easier to solder (or at least twisted the wire tightly so the strands don't separate like that), to be honest it looks like a mess.
But if it works and you hot glued it enough that it doesn't come off easily I guess that's all that matters.

Well it's a "test point" used at the factory. So it's a lead that leads to an unused pad. So if he's not using it for the modchip, it being gone won't do anything to the functionality of the board. If he wants to use a modchip in the future, he could either solder to the via since it's still intact or find where that via leads to on the other side of the board and route a wire to the nearest solder joint that via leads to which is what I'd recommend doing if he were to redo a modchip. I wouldn't want to solder direct to a via. Seems like that might cause issues. Especially if one wants to remove solder from that in the future. Though where or not soldering to the joint that via led to might difficult if it leads to something that is very small like one of the pins on a SMD mounted chip. It may also follow a trace that goes under a chip and without a schematic, you couldn't tell where that trace led to after that if it goes to one of the chips pins, but the trace goes under the chip first.

The Real Jdbye · Feb 22, 2018

Apache Thunder said:
Well it's a "test point" used at the factory. So it's a lead that leads to an unused pad. So if he's not using it for the modchip, it being gone won't do anything to the functionality of the board. If he wants to use a modchip in the future, he could either solder to the via since it's still intact or find where that via leads to on the other side of the board and route a wire to the nearest solder join that via leads to which is what I'd recommend doing if he were to redo a modchip. I wouldn't want to solder direct to a via. Seems like that might cause issues. Especially if one wants to remove solder from that in the future.

He did ask about resoldering the modchip in the title

Apache Thunder · Feb 22, 2018

Ahh I see. Well soldering to the via may be the easiest route. But that would be risky. If that is a multilayer PCB and he manages to destroy the via trying to solder to it, it may short to a hidden ground plane that is sandwiched inside. Perhaps it's just a simple 2 sided board with no additional layers. But I wouldn't know for sure though.

Roamin64 · Feb 22, 2018

I couldn't tell from your original picture that the top right solder point was a test point only. Now that it's ripped , we can clearly see it goes nowhere, so you didn't need to join the 2 points like the picture I uploaded. You could just use the via (the donut , bottom left with the pulled trace) and it would work , like it does now.

I don't mean to bash , but you said "Fixed and looking good" , it is actually looking terrible. For starters you used a wire that is too big, a finer gauge would of done a better job. Also , there is too much wire exposed once you've stripped them, which could cause problems by touching other parts around.

If I were you , for now i would leave it as is. I would find some broken electronics somewhere , and pratice , practice , practice. You should, strip a wire , tin it , cut the excess off to keep just enough to solder to a pad or component, and ideally use flux if you can find some. Lower your soldering temperature to at least 350 C , 400 is kinda hot , and should be mainly used to desolder components , not to solder them. You can place your soldering iron low , around 300 , and start doing tests on how easy your solder melts. When you see the green film on a solder pad, you should also gently scrape that off with a tiny screwdriver , or a blade (Carefull not to cut traces).

So find dead electronics, set you soldering iron , and start testing. Once you're a pro , return to your GC and cleanly resolder every cable , and never think about it again.

Good luck and practice!

Der_Blockbuster · Feb 22, 2018

Roamin64 said:
I couldn't tell from your original picture that the top right solder point was a test point only. Now that it's ripped , we can clearly see it goes nowhere, so you didn't need to join the 2 points like the picture I uploaded. You could just use the via (the donut , bottom left with the pulled trace) and it would work , like it does now.

I don't mean to bash , but you said "Fixed and looking good" , it is actually looking terrible. For starters you used a wire that is too big, a finer gauge would of done a better job. Also , there is too much wire exposed once you've stripped them, which could cause problems by touching other parts around.

If I were you , for now i would leave it as is. I would find some broken electronics somewhere , and pratice , practice , practice. You should, strip a wire , tin it , cut the excess off to keep just enough to solder to a pad or component, and ideally use flux if you can find some. Lower your soldering temperature to at least 350 C , 400 is kinda hot , and should be mainly used to desolder components , not to solder them. You can place your soldering iron low , around 300 , and start doing tests on how easy your solder melts. When you see the green film on a solder pad, you should also gently scrape that off with a tiny screwdriver , or a blade (Carefull not to cut traces).

So find dead electronics, set you soldering iron , and start testing. Once you're a pro , return to your GC and cleanly resolder every cable , and never think about it again.

Good luck and practice!

The Real Jdbye said:
Judging by the quality of that soldering I'd say he did need the hot glue

Wait, if it's a dead end, why does the chip need it?

That looks like a lot of cold joints, your wire is too thick, there's too much solder and you should have used solid core wire as it's easier to solder (or at least twisted the wire tightly so the strands don't separate like that), to be honest it looks like a mess.
But if it works and you hot glued it enough that it doesn't come off easily I guess that's all that matters.

Also, from what I hear solder pumps are harder to use, plus they can actually damage small components because of the force involved.

I think you would have had a much easier time with thin solid core wire like what's normally used for console modding, that wire is completely mismatched for the job
You should use a thicker tip when using solder wick, put the solder wick on top of what you want to remove and put the soldering iron on that. You need a thicker tip because it needs to have enough thermal mass to heat up both the wick and the solder. You might also need a somewhat higher temperature so the heat reaches the solder.

Thanks for your advice

I will start practicing and now looking back, the Wire I've Used was completely wrong like you said. I was going to a electronic shop and asked what they recommend for soldering small things like a modchip, and they gave me this bull

Im confident that with a solid core cable thing woul've been easier...
I had to used these huge amounts of solder because that was the only way to get these cable tinned, and actually be able to stick them. In the process of making this they often came off the solder points and I had to redo this again.

@Roamin64 You are right. I have another Gamecube laying around, I'll get me another XenoGC and do it again. But first I'll have to practive how the solder reacts to different situation and what is the best way to do it.

Another Problem was, that I had nothing to hold the chip, I had to hold the Cable, the Soldering Iron and the Chip all at once...was pretty exhausting.
I will use your advice, and hey ^^ I'll post here again, and compare those 2 Solderjobs, and hopefully the other one will look better XD
Stay Positive :hrth:

The Real Jdbye · Feb 22, 2018

Der_Blockbuster said:
Thanks for your advice
I will start practicing and now looking back, the Wire I've Used was completely wrong like you said. I was going to a electronic shop and asked what they recommend for soldering small things like a modchip, and they gave me this bull
Im confident that with a solid core cable thing woul've been easier...
I had to used these huge amounts of solder because that was the only way to get these cable tinned, and actually be able to stick them. In the process of making this they often came off the solder points and I had to redo this again.

@Roamin64 You are right. I have another Gamecube laying around, I'll get me another XenoGC and do it again. But first I'll have to practive how the solder reacts to different situation and what is the best way to do it.

Another Problem was, that I had nothing to hold the chip, I had to hold the Cable, the Soldering Iron and the Chip all at once...was pretty exhausting.
I will use your advice, and hey ^^ I'll post here again, and compare those 2 Solderjobs, and hopefully the other one will look better XD
Stay Positive

The problem with the huge amount of solder is that it isn't on the cable, there are blobs of solder sticking out everywhere

Anyway, you should pre-tin the cables which should make it easier.
I have some 30awg solid core wire in various colors that I got off eBay, I think that's the recommended thickness for console mods.
Getting a helping hands to hold the chip while you're soldering might not be a bad idea either.

Roamin64 · Feb 22, 2018

Be creative when it comes to a "third hand" to hold things. There are various tools designed for this. What I really like to use when doing mod chips or other small work , a piece of blu tack. You can easily hold wires or other parts with it, with no mess left behind when you remove it. Hot glue is also a very good solution , especially when your work is permanent. You really don't need a lot of glue , just a little bit , and just wait long enough so that it cools and holds your wire / modchip. Playdough could be used, electrical tape, anything that can hold a wire in place while you concentrate on the critical parts.

Practice! I destroyed tons of things when I was a teen before I actually started to repair and create stuff

CaptainSodaPop · Feb 23, 2018

Next time, use more FLUX or at least wire with it in it. I would suggest it in every case. No starter would believe, but it's crucial and will save a lot of frustration. To hell, don't even start soldering anything if you don't have any flux because there's a big chance you'll destroy something like that again if you're not confident enough. First clean the soldering points a bit with Isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab, then put a bit of flux with a toothpick on every soldering point. And twist the wires before you solder them, then dip them in the flux as well. Tinning them before soldering on a board should also help quite a bit. After you're done with work you clean the remains of flux again with alcohol. I'm nowhere near an expert on soldering but this is the basic stuff I know that works and helps a lot. It may work now but it may stop working as well anytime because these wires look really poorly soldered. Re-soldering them again then would be a problem because you've put that hot glue (that you shouldn't in the first place as someone said) which I guess is not so easy to remove. It's not necessarily bad to put hot glue on finished stuff but I think you should do it in specific situations where too much wire is exposed. So then, for the purpose of isolation. And after the work is really done good, and you're pretty sure you're finished with it.

Those destroyed points could be reflowed with solder maybe? Or conductive pen? Someone with more experience could answer to that. I am curious as well if it ever happens to me.

You were lucky and I wish you more luck next time. Both to you and your GameCube, so it still lives a looong and healthy life.

Der_Blockbuster · Feb 23, 2018

@Apache Thunder
@Roamin64
@The Real Jdbye
Do you guys know which Flux I should use?
There's a ocean of products,

CaptainSodaPop said:
Next time, use more FLUX or at least wire with it in it. I would suggest it in every case. No starter would believe, but it's crucial and will save a lot of frustration. To hell, don't even start soldering anything if you don't have any flux because there's a big chance you'll destroy something like that again if you're not confident enough. First clean the soldering points a bit with Isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab, then put a bit of flux with a toothpick on every soldering point. And twist the wires before you solder them, then dip them in the flux as well. Tinning them before soldering on a board should also help quite a bit. After you're done with work you clean the remains of flux again with alcohol. I'm nowhere near an expert on soldering but this is the basic stuff I know that works and helps a lot. It may work now but it may stop working as well anytime because these wires look really poorly soldered. Re-soldering them again then would be a problem because you've put that hot glue (that you shouldn't in the first place as someone said) which I guess is not so easy to remove. It's not necessarily bad to put hot glue on finished stuff but I think you should do it in specific situations where too much wire is exposed. So then, for the purpose of isolation. And after the work is really done good, and you're pretty sure you're finished with it.

Those destroyed points could be reflowed with solder maybe? Or conductive pen? Someone with more experience could answer to that. I am curious as well if it ever happens to me. You were lucky and I wish you more luck next time. Both to you and your GameCube, so it still lives a looong and healthy life.

Same to you bro ♥ thank you very much!
Where do you get Isopropyl Alcohol tho? XD

The Real Jdbye said:
The problem with the huge amount of solder is that it isn't on the cable, there are blobs of solder sticking out everywhere
Anyway, you should pre-tin the cables which should make it easier.
I have some 30awg solid core wire in various colors that I got off eBay, I think that's the recommended thickness for console mods.
Getting a helping hands to hold the chip while you're soldering might not be a bad idea either.

I did this at 3AM in the morning XD didn't want to bother my family, also I just couldn't sleep with the though of it not working ^_°

The Real Jdbye · Feb 23, 2018

Der_Blockbuster said:
@Apache Thunder
@Roamin64
@The Real Jdbye
Do you guys know which Flux I should use?
There's a ocean of products,

Same to you bro ♥ thank you very much!
Where do you get Isopropyl Alcohol tho? XD

I did this at 3AM in the morning XD didn't want to bother my family, also I just couldn't sleep with the though of it not working ^_°

I'm not really sure where to get isopropyl alcohol, but I bought some CRC electronic cleaner at a nearby store for future use (mostly for cleaning heatsink/CPU), it's not isopropyl alcohol but it's designed for electronics so it should work well. The instructions just say to spray it on and leave it to dry, you don't even have to wipe it off. Probably still have to wipe afterwards to get the dissolved gunk off, although the instructions don't mention it.

Like I said before, I saw someone with rosin core flux in a pen, that is probably a good one to go for.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/rosin-pen/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:rosin pen
Just make sure you don't buy a flux remover pen by accident

Really any flux that is designed for soldering should work but rosin is probably better since it's what everyone always suggests.

Der_Blockbuster · Feb 23, 2018

The Real Jdbye said:
I'm not really sure where to get isopropyl alcohol, but I bought some CRC electronic cleaner at a nearby store for future use (mostly for cleaning heatsink/CPU), it's not isopropyl alcohol but it's designed for electronics so it should work well. The instructions just say to spray it on and leave it to dry, you don't even have to wipe it off. Probably still have to wipe afterwards to get the dissolved gunk off, although the instructions don't mention it.

Like I said before, I saw someone with rosin core flux in a pen, that is probably a good one to go for.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/rosin-pen/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:rosin pen
Just make sure you don't buy a flux remover pen by accident
Really any flux that is designed for soldering should work but rosin is probably better since it's what everyone always suggests.

Oh okay

I already ordered Rosin Flux: http://www.ebay.de/itm/20g-Kolophon...881081?hash=item27d33f8979:g:6QYAAOSw~OVWxFiZ
Its not a pen tho, is it bad?

The Real Jdbye · Feb 23, 2018

Der_Blockbuster said:
Oh okay
I already ordered Rosin Flux: http://www.ebay.de/itm/20g-Kolophon...881081?hash=item27d33f8979:g:6QYAAOSw~OVWxFiZ
Its not a pen tho, is it bad?

Not really, a pen just makes it easier to apply.
The pens are refillable, at least some of them are, so I guess you could buy a pen and refill it from the tin when it's empty.

CaptainSodaPop · Feb 23, 2018

@Der_Blockbuster You can get it in a apothecary’s shop.

And I'm pretty sure everyone would recommend you standard rosin flux over a pen but whatever suits you. It's easier to dip wires in the normal one. Any brand should be pretty much the same just be careful to not buy flux for soldering pipes because it contains acid and it's dangerous for electronics and yourself in the end. Anything that says "rosin flux/for electronics" should be fine.

Der_Blockbuster · Feb 23, 2018

CaptainSodaPop said:
@Der_Blockbuster You can get it in a apothecary’s shop.

And I'm pretty sure everyone would recommend you standard rosin flux over a pen but whatever suits you. It's easier to dip wires in the normal one. Any brand should be pretty much the same just be careful to not buy flux for soldering pipes because it contains acid and it's dangerous for electronics and yourself in the end. Anything that says "rosin flux/for electronics" should be fine.

Hahaha I actually bought "Lötfett" translated in to english is Solder grease a week ago, which is used for soldering pipes. But I wasnt sure how to use, and after reading online I've found out that its not the right stuff XD

Der_Blockbuster · Feb 27, 2018

Well I've got the Rosin Solder Flux but its solid? How do I use it now?

Deleted-355425 · Feb 27, 2018

i pray for that board

GCN Is it broken? Can I still resolder the Modchip?

I have cameras in your head!

Well-Known Member

I have cameras in your head!

*is birb*

I have cameras in your head!

*is birb*

I have cameras in your head!

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

*is birb*

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

*is birb*

Well-Known Member

*is birb*

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Deleted-355425

Guest

Similar threads

Popular threads in this forum

is birb

is birb

is birb

is birb

is birb