Hey guys,
I'm seeking advice on a recent Picoboot install attempt on a Gamecube. I ordered a complete Picoboot set off of Ali with a purple Rp-2040 picoboot clone, SD2SP2 and 22 awg (I think) wires.
My soldering wasn't that good to be honest, but the gamecube booted and showed the orange light, pico also had the green led go on. But the screen remained black. I didn't touch it anymore and let a friend resolder everything, he did a really good job, but still the same problem. I tried shortening the wires since I've read in webhdx's documentation that this might be a problem (the wires that came with the set were 25cm), but this didn't change anything, still blackscreening. I also tried to boot without the Pico by desoldering the 3V line, but I'm still getting the blackscreen.
Now my question to you guys, is the Gamecube salvagable in any way? Did I ruin the IPL chip, or what could have caused this? I never went over 340C while soldering, so could I still have ruined it, or might there be some other cause? The ipl can't be replaced by itself, so it would need a completely new board, right? Or is there a way to bypass the ipl, since the pico is basically an ipl replacement?
Any advice is much appreciated!
Freeman
I'm seeking advice on a recent Picoboot install attempt on a Gamecube. I ordered a complete Picoboot set off of Ali with a purple Rp-2040 picoboot clone, SD2SP2 and 22 awg (I think) wires.
My soldering wasn't that good to be honest, but the gamecube booted and showed the orange light, pico also had the green led go on. But the screen remained black. I didn't touch it anymore and let a friend resolder everything, he did a really good job, but still the same problem. I tried shortening the wires since I've read in webhdx's documentation that this might be a problem (the wires that came with the set were 25cm), but this didn't change anything, still blackscreening. I also tried to boot without the Pico by desoldering the 3V line, but I'm still getting the blackscreen.
Now my question to you guys, is the Gamecube salvagable in any way? Did I ruin the IPL chip, or what could have caused this? I never went over 340C while soldering, so could I still have ruined it, or might there be some other cause? The ipl can't be replaced by itself, so it would need a completely new board, right? Or is there a way to bypass the ipl, since the pico is basically an ipl replacement?
Any advice is much appreciated!
Freeman