Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Good evening, everyone.
I'll start by saying I have little experience with errors.
Personally, I've done a lot of installations (I think about 100).
Today I installed a PicoFly OLED and I get = = *.
The codes tell me to check the MOSFET.
I replaced the MOSFET, the chip, and the resistors.
Always OFW.
What's going on?


On the kamikaze hole it is UV mask, not flux.
 

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Last edited by cicci084,
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Good evening, everyone.
I'll start by saying I have little experience with errors.
Personally, I've done a lot of installations (I think about 100).
Today I installed a PicoFly OLED and I get = = *.
The codes tell me to check the MOSFET.
I replaced the MOSFET, the chip, and the resistors.
Always OFW.
What's going on?


On the kamikaze hole it is UV mask, not flux.
Have you tried changing the picofly? Also, try 47ohm on DAT and CMD.
 
Good evening, everyone.
I have no explanation. I can't work with this OLED.

Even with the 47 ohm resistors on dat0 and cmd, nothing.

No glitches, just = = *

After several attempts, I disassembled a console with a chip installed (this one is also OLED, which glitches perfectly) and took both the MOSFET and the chip.

So, I took both the chip and MOSFET that worked on the previous console, but on this one, the same error occurs.

I measured with diode mode at all points on the new console that I can't modify.

I'm sharing these measurements with you.

On the Picofly guide, I noticed a suggestion, namely:
From Rehius:
If your glitch is unstable (==* error), and
the proper boot happens only when you press
Reset after Joy-Con logo, you can add two more
wires to make the glitch much better.

I hope you can help me.
Post automatically merged:

Edit

So I didn't try adding
the SDA and SCL points, and I didn't try two MOSFETs, always a single one.

I can assure you I've never had this problem.

can you help me?
 

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Last edited by cicci084,
Good evening, everyone.
I have no explanation. I can't work with this OLED.

Even with the 47 ohm resistors on dat0 and cmd, nothing.

No glitches, just = = *

After several attempts, I disassembled a console with a chip installed (this one is also OLED, which glitches perfectly) and took both the MOSFET and the chip.

So, I took both the chip and MOSFET that worked on the previous console, but on this one, the same error occurs.

I measured with diode mode at all points on the new console that I can't modify.

I'm sharing these measurements with you.

On the Picofly guide, I noticed a suggestion, namely:
From Rehius:
If your glitch is unstable (==* error), and
the proper boot happens only when you press
Reset after Joy-Con logo, you can add two more
wires to make the glitch much better.

I hope you can help me.
Post automatically merged:

Edit

So I didn't try adding
the SDA and SCL points, and I didn't try two MOSFETs, always a single one.

I can assure you I've never had this problem.

can you help me?
Have you tried using a flex instead of the homemade MOSFETs? All the modifications I make are homemade, all wired with RP2040-Zero, and the only commercial thing I use is the MOSFET flex properly modified, because it saves me a lot of time.
 
Have you tried using a flex instead of the homemade MOSFETs? All the modifications I make are homemade, all wired with RP2040-Zero, and the only commercial thing I use is the MOSFET flex properly modified, because it saves me a lot of time.
Never tried 1.
Always done everything with wires, always.
This is the first console (I've made about 100) that's given me this problem.
 
Good evening, everyone.
I have no explanation. I can't work with this OLED.

Even with the 47 ohm resistors on dat0 and cmd, nothing.

No glitches, just = = *

After several attempts, I disassembled a console with a chip installed (this one is also OLED, which glitches perfectly) and took both the MOSFET and the chip.

So, I took both the chip and MOSFET that worked on the previous console, but on this one, the same error occurs.

I measured with diode mode at all points on the new console that I can't modify.

I'm sharing these measurements with you.

On the Picofly guide, I noticed a suggestion, namely:
From Rehius:
If your glitch is unstable (==* error), and
the proper boot happens only when you press
Reset after Joy-Con logo, you can add two more
wires to make the glitch much better.

I hope you can help me.
Post automatically merged:

Edit

So I didn't try adding
the SDA and SCL points, and I didn't try two MOSFETs, always a single one.

I can assure you I've never had this problem.

can you help me?
Sorry guys.
I know I'm clogging up the discussion.
I installed three MOSFETs, and they all burned out.
What am I doing wrong?
What could be causing the above?
I should point out that I have four layers of Kapton, so there's no way they're touching the shield.
 
Sorry guys.
I know I'm clogging up the discussion.
I installed three MOSFETs, and they all burned out.
What am I doing wrong?
What could be causing the above?
I should point out that I have four layers of Kapton, so there's no way they're touching the shield.
You can install it underneath the board as shown in the installation guide.
 

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Hey guys! Does anyone know why this is happening? I also uninstalled the chip and now I have a black screen.

Could my NAND be corrupted?
 

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I've got this Switch v2 with a rp2040 picofly and a busted emmc.
I've seen other cases like this before but this one is weird. With the original eMMC I can get to hekate without any problem but it cannot initialize emmc.
With the new eMMC module it gets an error even before that with the rp2040 blinking to say emmc could not be initialized.

Did I get a dud or am I missing something?
 
I bought a Nintendo Switch OLED on firmware 19.0.
I plan to use emuNAND for installing games and I will not install anything on sysNAND.
My question is:
If I use Daybreak to update only the sysNAND offline to version 21.2, without installing any games on it, can this still lead to a ban?
And in the future, when support for version 22 is available, would I be able to update the sysNAND officially without issues?
 
If I use Daybreak to update only the sysNAND offline to version 21.2, without installing any games on it, can this still lead to a ban?
And in the future, when support for version 22 is available, would I be able to update the sysNAND officially without issues?
I don't think that will lead to a ban because it is the illegal game tickets that Nintendo checks.
FW22 support is in the making so why not just wait for a few weeks?
 
I bought a Nintendo Switch OLED on firmware 19.0.
I plan to use emuNAND for installing games and I will not install anything on sysNAND.
My question is:
If I use Daybreak to update only the sysNAND offline to version 21.2, without installing any games on it, can this still lead to a ban?
And in the future, when support for version 22 is available, would I be able to update the sysNAND officially without issues?
Yes, due to the number of fuses, the safe use of Daybreak is more recommended for emulation systems. Try to avoid unnecessary problems with system updates; we'll have CFW Atmosphere back soon...
 
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