Hardware Question about BQ24193 chip

hN_

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If this chip, or any of it's subcomponents, is faulty, does it cause a no charging symbol, and black screen (no backlight) after nintendo logo?

At first it had a low battery symbol, and no charging symbol. I looked in the port, saw a couple of bent pins, so I replaced usb port, no change.

Then I probed battery voltage, 3.3 volts, should be good enough to be turned on.

Someone before me messed with the BQ chip, bridged pin 1 and pin 2 together. So I installed it correctly, and now it won't display battery low symbol anymore, but now shuts off after nintendo logo.

Some of the 10k ohm 0201 resistors were out of range even after removing the chip, is that normal?
(VERY out of range, like 300 ohms, 33 kohm, etc)
 
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onboard-test-resistors-bq24913-jpg.174587

Read my post https://gbatemp.net/threads/compone...he-motherboard-and-main-console.525026/page-7

if i remember corectly bQ not soldered properly shows black screen after first logo.
 
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First read ,compare the values with my picture must by close ,around not perfect, the 10 k everywere is wrong , replace resistors if is the case and maybe , this is all you need do do, you also need to check the vcc5/15v on the right cap of the bq ic, vcc on fuse bouth sides.and so on.
 
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hN_

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First read ,compare the values with my picture must by close ,around not perfect, the 10 k everywere is wrong , replace resistors if is the case and maybe , this is all you need do do, you also need to check the vcc5/15v on the right cap of the bq ic, vcc on fuse bouth sides.and so on.

Thank you, I'll keep this thread updated for other people. I can't work on it until tomorrow so expect nothing for today.
 

hN_

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I think I got it now. The usb port install doesn't work, so charging is not diagnosed as bad. I also have 3 dead resistors. I have the 3.8kohm resistor, but its suspiciously high at 3.95 kohm, does that need to be replaced as well? If so, do you guys know of a good source for those 0201 carbon film resistors? I think I'd prefer to buy all new since the previous guy also melted the left joycon connector, which I had to remove.
 
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hN_

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I've bought new resistors, soldered them all on properly, soldered on the bq chip properly, switch won't turn on anymore. I haven't got the usb c port working since I can not get any pins to stick for some reason, so if you can give me advice for that, please do, I'm worried I got a bad usb port since the other one (2 pack) was severely bent. Is there any places I can probe to see if battery voltage is getting through? I can see some chips under the battery connector.
 

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I introduced voltage at the battery connector, it takes .12 amps when I press the power button, but goes back to 0
 

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First you need to get power from usb to the fuse and after the fuse, i hope you checked for shorts around mn 92, bq ic,etc.
Can you post pictures with your usb port, ports, mb,and so on ?

The fuse is ok ? the fuse is shorted to ground ? you have 5v on both sides of the fuse if you conect to pc with usb c cable ? or 15v if you conect the original chargher ?

So you need to put a 10 k resistor betwen ground and battery detect pin if you want to power your switch from lab power supply with no battery i will explain if is the case.

P.S.
I'm not responsable for anyting.
 
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hN_

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First you need to get power from usb to the fuse and after the fuse, i hope you checked for shorts around mn 92, bq ic,etc.
Can you post pictures with your usb port, ports, mb,and so on ?

The fuse is ok ? the fuse is shorted to ground ? you have 5v on both sides of the fuse if you conect to pc with usb c cable ? or 15v if you conect the original chargher ?

So you need to put a 10 k resistor betwen ground and battery detect pin if you want to power your switch from lab power supply with no battery i will explain if is the case.

P.S.
I'm not responsable for anyting.
Yes, I've checked for shorts everywhere, no shorts at all. I tried to inject 5 volts on the charging rail since I do not have a usb port on it right now, and it does not take any amps at all (0.00). Charging rail is not shorted btw. I know there is a circuit, because when I connect the probes after a while, I see a small spark. In a tronics fix video, he had the exact same symptoms as me, and it was caused by water damage at BQ chip.
 

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inject 5v before the fuse wee need to see if 5v pases fuse to the mn92 and go to bq on right cap of the Bq,and decide if you need to replace bq or mn92 .
I need to make you a picture for that if i dont fiind one with voltages on this forum.
 
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The Real Jdbye

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I think I got it now. The usb port install doesn't work, so charging is not diagnosed as bad. I also have 3 dead resistors. I have the 3.8kohm resistor, but its suspiciously high at 3.95 kohm, does that need to be replaced as well? If so, do you guys know of a good source for those 0201 carbon film resistors? I think I'd prefer to buy all new since the previous guy also melted the left joycon connector, which I had to remove.
3.95k is within ~5% tolerance so should be fine.
 

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inject 5v before the fuse wee need to see if 5v pases fuse to the mn92 and go to bq on right cap of the Bq,and decide if you need to replace bq or mn92 .
I need to make you a picture for that if i dont fiind one with voltages on this forum.

I will check that, thank you

3.95k is within ~5% tolerance so should be fine.

I've already replaced all resistors anyways
 

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Input voltage fine, fuse fine, but I see 5 volts on some pins, and 80-120 mv on others near t36 chip. Vbus on bq 80 mv.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

I've found the voltage chart posted by FXDX, no worries

Also, I notice that current draw initially jumps to .36 then drops off to 0.00 quickly
 
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I can't decide what to replace, if you don't use original chargher you will have 5v instead of 15v , did you damage short the balls under the fuel gauge ic on the bottom of the board ?
I posted the picture to use if you whant to power the switch with bench power suply with no batery, set to 4.2 - 4.8v see what works for you
 

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Max17050 ic fuel gauge ic? I see no shorts or anything

No more ideas, i don't undersand whay first you booted to nintendo logo and now nothing, , battery Vcc is to low now ? test with dummy batery ?, maybe replacing Bq24193 and maybe Mn92 i'm not shore, i don't now way you can't replace the usb port, you don't post pictures....
 
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hN_

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No more ideas, i don't undersand whay first you booted to nintendo logo and now nothing, , battery Vcc is to low now ? test with dummy batery ?, maybe replacing Bq24193 and maybe Mn92 i'm not shore, i don't now way you can't replace the usb port, you don't post pictures....
Bq charges battery perfectly fine, so i don't know why vbus is being pulled down. When I power usb port pins, and power bq vbus, it all takes .32 amps. If I power just vbus, it takes .46 amps

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

cpu gets warm if i leave battery plugged in
 

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how do you work on mb, mb flat on desk ?
more test on this thread https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintendo-switch-board-draws-0-46-a-and-doesnt-boot.569569/#post-9143342 usb d+D- shorted to gnd ? is patched,can you boot hekate ? you will need usb port or, you can solder d+d- vcc and gnd to a usb cable, jig or nand removed, nand is conected to mb ?

I think you did something to the board working on usb port, working on bq . i don't now how to tell you to test Max17050 yet if is working and if the batery will charge but not start booting if is broken, balls under bridged..

vcc on battery is rising ? what is vcc on batery now?
 
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