Hardware Switch won't charge, no USB...

[Testo]

Hey Guys,

I've got a broken Switch from a friend that was completly dead, even the "repair service" wasn't able to get it back to life. So I decided to give it a lookup...
After opening the console the first thing I noticed was that there are some screws are missing, no big deal but that was a safe sign that it wasn`t the a official repair.
Digging deeper the full extent of the "repair" went vissible, the USB C port was literally fried, the plastic of the port was almost completly melted.
Today I received a spare port and I think the soldering went well, but here comes my first question:
Is there any way to verify that the inner pins are soldered properly?
Sadly the port seems to be not the only broken part, there are now 5V on the testpoint near it but there is still no charge or a USB connection to my notebook (even in RCM nothing is discovered).
The next thing I was checking was the M92T36
PIN 5: 3.3V
PIN 6 without charger: 3.3V
PIN 6 with charger: 3.3V
This seems OK to me but I guess the voltage on pin 6 should be higher when the charger is connected.

I hooked up the battery to a TP4056 and let it charge for a while, the switch turns on and works fine, there are noticeable faults.

So what are the next steps I should do?
Do you guys have any recommendations for me?

Regards Lukas

 

[Fernand]

well you pretty much to me covered all bases but the M92T36 chip is your culprit even tho it might seem like its doing what its supposed to do i would not trust it after receiving the jolt of thor in the port lol,if you have the knowledge and the skills and the equipment to de solder and re solder back new one i would suggest you do it it would not hurt , they are cheap at ebay and about 90% of the time its that darn little rascal and if all else fails a new board seems like my out for something like this .

 

[Testo]

Thanks for the advise, I'll give it a try. Now I have to find a fast supplier for these chips.

 

[Fernand]

19.94$ ebay u.s seller , just dont buy china stuff in there ,you might end up blowing it up instead

 

[Testo]

Well I'm pretty sure they're all from China
I ordered one for, 17€ so yeah 19$, hopefully it arrives soon and fixes my problem

 

[Testo]

So today I tried the Switch on a dock today and it was only flashing the green LED, could it maybe be the PI3USB IC on the backside of the Mainboard that's faulty?

 

[Borega]

Could be yes. Hard to say. The Mt9 ic or the pi3usb. Try one at a time and report back

 

[Testo]

Well the MT I received today was a used one (thanks eBay -.-), I soldered it anyway but it draws now 0.09 Amps continuous so it's maybe also a defective one...

 

[Testo]

Well the MT I received today was a used one (thanks eBay -.-), I soldered it anyway but it draws now 0.09 Amps continuous so it's maybe also a defective one...

 

[Testo]

Well the MT I received today was a used one (thanks eBay -.-), I soldered it anyway but it draws now 0.09 Amps continuous so it's maybe also a defective one...

 

[Borega]

Did you solder it on correctly? Pushed down on it when it was floating on the flux? No connected pins etc.

 

[Testo]

It doesn't seem to be shorted, but I'm giving it another try today

 

[Testo]

So after resoldering it 3 times and always charging wit 0.09A I decided to be a little bit more radical. I ordered all 3 ICs, the BQ, MT and I3. If this doesn't work it's going to get a TP4056 for charging. It's enough for playing and a very cheap solution

 

[Borega]

Check the resistors around the bq chip. Mine has one that is a short to ground and I guess that's the reason mine does not charge...

 

[Testo]

Thanks for the advise, I think I checked them but they are worth a try

 

[Testo]

Some good news of today, I 3D printed an RCM Jig an tested it. I was successfully connecting the switch to my computer and it was recognized, I'm pretty sure now that it has to be the MT or the BQ IC. Hopefully I'm able to get this baby working again. Otherwise I'm thinking about installing the TP charging board an let it as it now because it's working. It may wouldn't be able to dock but it's still a fully working switch.

What do you guys think, risk it and solder the ordered ICs again to get a fully working switch or install a workaround and be happy with a playable switch

 

[Borega]

Go for the fix. The bq is an easy fix if you shield the connector next to it with a metal shield. The Mt is a bit of a chalange but if you can do it. The USB ic on the back I have not done yet. But I'd say change the Mt first then test, then bq and repeat and then the USB

 

[Testo]

Well I have removed and resoldered everyone of these already to be sure it's not just a bad solder joint ^^
I have to wait 4 weeks for the parts to arrive from China because I haven't found any shop that sells them

 

[Testo]

So today I was able to fix the switch itself, it's booting and charging. But sadly one connector for the Joy Con went bad, are there any suggestions how I can fix this?

 

[TariqSoftDev]

So today I was able to fix the switch itself, it's booting and charging. But sadly one connector for the Joy Con went bad, are there any suggestions how I can fix this?

Yeah you'd have to order the connector and be able to micro solder; leaded solder will be needed to reduce solder temps to pull this job off with a higher pass rate; it's not for the light of heart as the part heats up very quickly causing the connector to melt so it's literally quick soldering.

 

[Agilato]

So today I was able to fix the switch itself, it's booting and charging. But sadly one connector for the Joy Con went bad, are there any suggestions how I can fix this?

You can buy a donor board or connector it self, to replace any of the components on this "appendix" side of the board even BQ Chip you can heat up the board with heat gun from opposite side. I was able to replace this connector with soldering iron, but chances are very high that you will melt it.

 

[Testo]

Yeah you'd have to order the connector and be able to micro solder; leaded solder will be needed to reduce solder temps to pull this job off with a higher pass rate; it's not for the light of heart as the part heats up very quickly causing the connector to melt so it's literally quick soldering.

I am using only leaded solder but since it's an plastic connector and SMD I'm not really sure how to solder it without melting the connector itself while soldering