Switch won't charge, no USB...

Discussion in 'Switch - Console, Accessories & Hardware' started by Testo, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. Borega

    Borega Member

    Newcomer
    2
    May 26, 2019
    Germany
    How did you fix your switch if I may ask?
    And the connector is named in another thread here somewhere. Buy a couple of replacements and try your luck. Leaded or even low melt solder and heat from the other side. That should do the trick
     
  2. Testo
    OP

    Testo Member

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    2
    Jun 13, 2019
    Germany
    It was a faulty m92t36 in combination with a bad soldered USB-C port. I already ordered 10 of the connectors and 2 different kinds of solder, a paste that melts at 138°C and Chipquik solder wit a melting point of 58°C. I'm trying around as soon as the components arrive.
     
  3. Testo
    OP

    Testo Member

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    2
    Jun 13, 2019
    Germany
    Finally it's done, after replacing the charging port, the M92T36 and the connector for the ribbon cable of the JoyCon rail the switch is working fine. The JoyCons I bought have also been defective, the left had a broken L button (I was able to solder it on again) the right one had a broken analog stick (I replaced it).

    So after weeks I spent, I'm proud to present my fully working Nintendo switch :)
     

    Attached Files:

    wicksand420 likes this.
  4. Borega

    Borega Member

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    2
    May 26, 2019
    Germany
    Good job mate. Nicely done
     
    Testo likes this.
  5. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

    Member
    2
    Jun 21, 2019
    United States
    Good job, but i believe it would be fair if you describe in details, how you replaced: chip, usb port and connector and what problems you had during this repair.
    Thanks.
     
  6. Testo
    OP

    Testo Member

    Newcomer
    2
    Jun 13, 2019
    Germany
    What kind of detail do you expect? The ICs and the USB-C Port have to be soldered with a hot air soldering station, the ribbon connector can be hand soldered but with that small pitch and all that plastic it's a little bit difficult. I think there isn't so much to tell, because everything I did is documented on the web more than once. I have just one last thing to say, don't measure around too much, I've spent hours on measuring continuity of capacitors or values of resistors. I checked so many of them waiting for my spare parts, and I always thought there was another defect. But it wasn't.
    Stay with the basics, if it doesn't charge, check the BQ or the MT and even if they seem to work fine, try to replace them.
     
    FXDX and Agilato like this.
  7. Testo
    OP

    Testo Member

    Newcomer
    2
    Jun 13, 2019
    Germany
    So today I tried to hook up my switch at a TV. All I got was this, tried different resolutions and HDMI ports/cables.
    I'm not sure if it's the USB C port or the PI3USB IC. Any suggestions how I could check all pins on the usb C Port?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Borega

    Borega Member

    Newcomer
    2
    May 26, 2019
    Germany
    Looks like p14 USB to me
     
  9. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

    Member
    2
    Jun 21, 2019
    United States
    Start with chokes around P13 and check if parallel lines aren't shorted, they shouldn't have any resistance between parallel lines, make sure you can read thru choke lines also. Non cleaned "cured" overheated flux actually might cost interference also even it's "no clean" flux.
     
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