With no straps connected, the chip won't even wake up. If other things are being recognised via USB (is joypads) then the chip isn't the issue.
The issue is the host mode "stack" or the homebrew itself.
The issue is the host mode "stack" or the homebrew itself.
I figured the Trinket couldn't cause this issue but it seems like such a strange coincidence for the volume button to be affected. The issue exists as soon as the console is powered (even in RCM) so I don't think it's caused by software. I think my motherboard must have some abnormal issue.
After letting it sit overnight, powered off, the issue is gone, although Tinfoil USB install still produces as error. I will try to recreate the error with the Trinket disconnected.
After letting it sit overnight, powered off, the issue is gone, although Tinfoil USB install still produces as error. I will try to recreate the error with the Trinket disconnected.
Last edited by JacksonS,
Ok. Once the trinket goes to sleep, it is as though it is not even there.
Like I say, if joypads are working (plugged directly into the switch) and the dock, and memloader come to think of it (SD & emmc ini files), then clearly the issue isn't in the chip or software.
I normally don't touch the horizon homebrew side. Not my area. But I'll take a look at tinfoils code later and see if I can get the same issue. Keep me posted
I haven't test Tinfoil with the Trinket desoldered but I believe the issue is purely software. It seems to happen if I use certain install paths on the PC (e.g. if I define the path as relative it will crash, but not if I define it as absolute).
My issue with the volume button hasn't gone away but it's definitely a hardware issue. I've measured the voltage on the Up button and it does go fairly low without being pressed, around 0.5v or 0.3v sometimes, while the Down button is always 1.8v. So the Up button isn't shorted to ground but it's defective somehow.
My guess is that the Tegra uses an internal 1.8v pullup on both volume buttons and the Up button pullup is broken. I can only assume this is because of the Trinket; I had the Trinket connected to the button at some point before I finished the install. It probably pulled the button input high to 3.3V while in bootloader mode or something, and I'm guessing the input is not 3.3v tolerant, so it broke. It sucks but I will try putting an external 1.8v pullup on it and hope it works.
My issue with the volume button hasn't gone away but it's definitely a hardware issue. I've measured the voltage on the Up button and it does go fairly low without being pressed, around 0.5v or 0.3v sometimes, while the Down button is always 1.8v. So the Up button isn't shorted to ground but it's defective somehow.
My guess is that the Tegra uses an internal 1.8v pullup on both volume buttons and the Up button pullup is broken. I can only assume this is because of the Trinket; I had the Trinket connected to the button at some point before I finished the install. It probably pulled the button input high to 3.3V while in bootloader mode or something, and I'm guessing the input is not 3.3v tolerant, so it broke. It sucks but I will try putting an external 1.8v pullup on it and hope it works.
Last edited by JacksonS,
The problem will be where the 150R resistor is. If that is shorted to GND (it is a pullup. You are correct) then your vol+ is "stuck".
However, you can safely remove the resistor and link it. The GPIOs can take considerably more current than that.
That resistor must just be a passthrough, not a pullup. I'd expect a pullup to be above 1k ohms. I've looked at the 150 ohm resistor and it's not shorted to anything.
Do you know if there is an external pullup resistor anywhere else on the board? If there is, I don't think I ever touched it, so it would be really strange for it to be broken.
Last edited by JacksonS,
No the resistor isn't a pull-up. The actual gpio is. The resistor just limits current
Well, I've looked at the motherboard for a long time and I can't seem to fix the volume button issue. The physical button is fine; I disconnected it and it still thinks it's "pressed". Replacing the 150 ohms resistor with a wire changed nothing. I added an external pullup, but the button is still being pulled low by something else at random times. It looks like my motherboard is just broken after using the Trinket.
I'd advise anyone else to be very cautious about connecting a microcontroller directly to any GPIO on the Switch.
I'd advise anyone else to be very cautious about connecting a microcontroller directly to any GPIO on the Switch.
Last edited by JacksonS,
Test_Dotstar_Brightness done :
Dotstar brightness/fading works for me since Trinket's UF2 flashed. But blackout after.
Indeed unable to boot the console in CFW (SX OS) just after and so even with a long power pressed button ( 20 seconds ) to reset the console. Had to boot OFW Horizon then reflash 0.9.8r2.
You just need to find where it is grounded.
It must be grounded somewhere. There is a resistor shunted to gnd further down the trace. That could be shorted.
Can you continuity test the trace?
Yeah. I thought so.
I missed an #include out
I`m too old and too forgetful for this "programming" nowadays
It's definitely not grounded. I've mentioned I've tested continuity and it's not shorted to anything. The GPIO is connected just as it should be, but it's being pulled down internally by the Tegra or something else that's broken.
Can you show me where this other resistor is? I'd like to inspect every external component connected to the GPIO.
Last edited by JacksonS,
Yeah. I thought so.
I missed an #include out
I`m too old and too forgetful for this "programming" nowadays
No no...not bad. Keep going on
Last edited by Dougiejones,
The bottom resistor. The end of the trace marked in red. This then goes to a testpoint on the reverse of the board if memory serves.
Thanks for the visual. That component looks like a capacitor to me. I haven't tried removing it but I don't have much hope that it's related to this issue.
Are you sure? Looks like a resistor. I`m getting 75K ohms across it.
capacitance in low pF. Basically nothing.
Can`t see why it would be a capacitor. It isn`t decoupling anything, doesn`t need to smooth anything, doesn`t need to condense anything.
Looks defo like a shunt resistor to me. Give the 1.8v somewhere to go. Or its a pulldown to drop GPIO from 3v to 1.8. I don`t know.
Anyway... What readings are you getting? impedance between that trace and GND?
Last edited by mattytrog,
It is not a resistor, you can tell by the shape. With the component removed from the circuit, it reads nearly infinite resistance and 100 pF in capacitance. It would make sense for it to be a capacitor since this is a button and it needs to be debounced.
Even though the capacitor seems fine, my issue seems to have gone away after removing it... I'm still wary that the issue will come back but it's been almost a day and the volume isn't going up on its own.
Even though the capacitor seems fine, my issue seems to have gone away after removing it... I'm still wary that the issue will come back but it's been almost a day and the volume isn't going up on its own.
Just tested.
Absolutely correct sir!
Are my eyes really that bad?
I should have (supplied a signal) & tested xC (capacitive reactance) in the first place.
It is indeed a 100pF cap. Probably Murata. Tested out of circuit this time
Last edited by mattytrog,
OK... 0.9.8r3 coming... No 0.9.9 yet. 0.9.9 will have FW 7.0 support
Changelog:
Got a PI3USB to change and a LCD connector to do first.
Changelog:
- Hekate updated to 4.6svc - added 77620 rtc control. See hekate git for more information
- Autochainload now has an option to press vol- during boot and it is displayed (1 second)
- USB strap changed to just sense falling voltage rather than a change (shouldn`t wake the chip up when plugging things in)
- Modchip USB connection completely disabled at sleep by setting CTRLA bit to 0
Got a PI3USB to change and a LCD connector to do first.
Last edited by mattytrog,
Thank-you sir! You are my main beta tester!Hasty to test and give feedback
And good luck for the rest !
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